Valve cover replacement nightmare, please help.
#1
Valve cover replacement nightmare, please help.
My valve covers needed to be replaced. I could smell the oil residue running down and burning on the headers. I bought the valve cover gaskets and picked up some autolite double platinum spark plugs. I replaced the gaskets and the plugs. Then I started the car,it was running really rough. It sounded like 2 cylinders just weren't firing. I took it to Advance Auto Parts and they scanned it to pull codes. All he gave me was P0300, but I saw another code that popped up. I didn't catch much of it. I asked the sales guy what it was and he told me it was most likely caused because of the P0300. Well, P0300 is multiple misfires. While driving I noticed my, "service engine soon," light was blinking. I went back home and proceeded to pull out my spark plugs. Plugs 1,3,5 were in good shape. Spark plug 2 is fine, 4, 6 had fuel on them, but the electrode was clean/unfired. I assumed it was the plugs. They had been sitting since March waiting on me to install them, so I pulled them all and replaced them with ngk laser platinum. I rechecked them and the gaps were a little off. I reset them at .043, reinstalled them and and proceeded to start the car. It won't start, it'll turn over and you can hear it try to fire, but it just won't start. This may be a problem on it's own, but my battery is dead. I charged it and I'm only getting 13.9v. So I'm not sure if the battery issue is related or not, but I'm including it. I pulled the plugs again to look at them and it seemed they were all the same. I checked to make sure I was getting spark on every plug and the coil packs are firing. No damage seems to have occured to the coil packs. I had a friend of mine tell me it sounds like my car has a vacuum leak. I replaced the intake manifold gasket in the plenum and in between the upper and lower intake manifold. I'm thinking a vacuum leak so big that the car can't start, has to be noticable. Does anyone have any suggestions that I can try? BTW, I'm broke for the most part.
Parts I checked and replaced was the coolant bypass hose, spark plugs twice, upper intake manifold to lower gasket, and intake plenum gasket. All appropriate electrical plugs where reconnected and checked several times. The only think I noticed odd was the vacuum hose on the passenger side, that looks like a goofy looking question mark, hissed when I disconnected it from the intake manifold.
Parts I checked and replaced was the coolant bypass hose, spark plugs twice, upper intake manifold to lower gasket, and intake plenum gasket. All appropriate electrical plugs where reconnected and checked several times. The only think I noticed odd was the vacuum hose on the passenger side, that looks like a goofy looking question mark, hissed when I disconnected it from the intake manifold.
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
the goofy looking hose is the brake booster vacuum hose. if u think u have a vacuum leak buy the kit from z1 motorsports. itll replace all the intake related vacuum hose at a much lesser cost than oem.
u sure u installed the plugs for the spark plugs in the right order? its hard to do it wrong but ive read of people doing that here. also the spark plugs are pregapped. not sure how u couldve gapped them better than the manufacturer.
u sure u installed the plugs for the spark plugs in the right order? its hard to do it wrong but ive read of people doing that here. also the spark plugs are pregapped. not sure how u couldve gapped them better than the manufacturer.
#3
Make sure that all the coil pack plugs are in the right order, when I changed my plugs and started it, it ran really rough because I had 2 of them in the wrong order because they will fit on either pack. Check that for that problem on the other problem I'm not sure without seeing or hearing the car.
#4
#5
Here's and update. I finally got it started. A friend of mine, that owns a shop, stopped by and looked it over. He tapped on the throttle body and disconnected and reconnected the plug. It fired right up, but still not firing on 4 and 6. He checked out everything I did. I pulled a spark plug from 4 and told him, "this is what 6 looks like too." Under the advisement of the electrician, at my job, I replaced the COP boots on 4 and 6. It didn't do any good. At this point, I'm at a loss. It has thus gone to the shop. I will keep this thread updated as news is handed to me.
#7
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#10
Update from the mechanic wasn't so good. Actually it's pretty bad when he says to me, "I have no clue what the hell is wrong with your car." My car has multiple misfires and the tps is trying to adjust fuel BC he believes there is an air leak. His computer is saying the misfires are all over the cylinders. Lost I am. I didn't see any loose or exposed wires.
#11
Now for an update. The mechanic has been threw the car. He has replaced the TPS, believing that was the cause of the problem. He reset the ECU so it could relearn the new throttle body. No change at all. Guys, I'm lost. He really doesn't know what else to try. I've suggested that look at the wires, but that's about it. Again, it's still misfiring across all cylinders. Please I need help. It's been a month w/o my car.
#13
Premier Member
iTrader: (11)
Since you had just replaced valve covers, I'm inclined to believe something didn't get reconnected, or the connectors to the coils on 4 and 6 are flipped. It's easy to get them plugged into the wrong coil on that side. (search replacing spark plugs, a lot of people have made that mistake) This thread has good pictures of the coil harness wires. https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ug-change.html
Also, the coils are pretty sensitive, so if they were "shocked" somehow (ie dropped, bumped together, etc) then they could be damaged.
From the FSM:
You really need to go over all of your work and verify everything is connected in the correct spot and FULLY inserted.
Also, the coils are pretty sensitive, so if they were "shocked" somehow (ie dropped, bumped together, etc) then they could be damaged.
From the FSM:
DTC P0300 - P0306 MULTIPLE CYLINDER MISFIRE, NO. 1 - 6 CYLINDER MISFIRE
On Board Diagnosis Logic:
When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (POS) signal to vary, ECM can determine that a misfire is occurring.
The misfire detection logic consists of the following two conditions.
1. One Trip Detection Logic (Three Way Catalyst Damage)
On the 1st trip that a misfire condition occurs that can damage the three way catalyst (TWC) due to overheating, the MIL will blink.
When a misfire condition occurs, the ECM monitors the CKP sensor signal every 200 engine revolutions for a change.
When the misfire condition decreases to a level that will not damage the TWC, the MIL will turn off.
If another misfire condition occurs that can damage the TWC on a 2nd trip, the MIL will blink.
When the misfire condition decreases to a level that will not damage the TWC, the MIL will remain on.
If another misfire condition occurs that can damage the TWC, the MIL will begin to blink again.
2. Two Trip Detection Logic (Exhaust quality deterioration)
For misfire conditions that will not damage the TWC (but will affect vehicle emissions), the MIL will only light when the misfire is detected on a 2nd trip. During this condition, the ECM monitors the CKP sensor signal every 1,000 engine revolutions.
A misfire malfunction can be detected on any one cylinder or on multiple cylinders.
Possible cause
* Improper spark plug
* Insufficient compression
* Incorrect fuel pressure
* The fuel injector circuit is open or shorted
* Fuel injector
* Intake air leak
* The ignition signal circuit is open or shorted
* Lack of fuel
* Signal plate
* Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1
* Incorrect PCV hose connection
On Board Diagnosis Logic:
When a misfire occurs, engine speed will fluctuate. If the engine speed fluctuates enough to cause the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (POS) signal to vary, ECM can determine that a misfire is occurring.
The misfire detection logic consists of the following two conditions.
1. One Trip Detection Logic (Three Way Catalyst Damage)
On the 1st trip that a misfire condition occurs that can damage the three way catalyst (TWC) due to overheating, the MIL will blink.
When a misfire condition occurs, the ECM monitors the CKP sensor signal every 200 engine revolutions for a change.
When the misfire condition decreases to a level that will not damage the TWC, the MIL will turn off.
If another misfire condition occurs that can damage the TWC on a 2nd trip, the MIL will blink.
When the misfire condition decreases to a level that will not damage the TWC, the MIL will remain on.
If another misfire condition occurs that can damage the TWC, the MIL will begin to blink again.
2. Two Trip Detection Logic (Exhaust quality deterioration)
For misfire conditions that will not damage the TWC (but will affect vehicle emissions), the MIL will only light when the misfire is detected on a 2nd trip. During this condition, the ECM monitors the CKP sensor signal every 1,000 engine revolutions.
A misfire malfunction can be detected on any one cylinder or on multiple cylinders.
Possible cause
* Improper spark plug
* Insufficient compression
* Incorrect fuel pressure
* The fuel injector circuit is open or shorted
* Fuel injector
* Intake air leak
* The ignition signal circuit is open or shorted
* Lack of fuel
* Signal plate
* Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1
* Incorrect PCV hose connection
You really need to go over all of your work and verify everything is connected in the correct spot and FULLY inserted.
#14
Don't think so. Wasn't a listed code. As a matter of fact I was just handed the list of codes. These were recorded after the TPS was replaced and the ECM was reset. 0300, 1121tp out of range, 1122,1123 and 0123. I am trying to verify that the ECM is being reset according to how Infinti does it (by VIN and build date.) If it isn't, the car will be going to infiniti. If it is, my mechanic will be attempting to monitor the voltage on the TPS and the camshaft position sensors. Depending on whether it's one or the other, hell or all three at this point, they will be replaced and could be the cause of my problems.
This is been a damn nightmare.
This is been a damn nightmare.
#15
Since you had just replaced valve covers, I'm inclined to believe something didn't get reconnected, or the connectors to the coils on 4 and 6 are flipped. It's easy to get them plugged into the wrong coil on that side. (search replacing spark plugs, a lot of people have made that mistake) This thread has good pictures of the coil harness wires. https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ug-change.html
Also, the coils are pretty sensitive, so if they were "shocked" somehow (ie dropped, bumped together, etc) then they could be damaged.
From the FSM:
You really need to go over all of your work and verify everything is connected in the correct spot and FULLY inserted.
Also, the coils are pretty sensitive, so if they were "shocked" somehow (ie dropped, bumped together, etc) then they could be damaged.
From the FSM:
You really need to go over all of your work and verify everything is connected in the correct spot and FULLY inserted.