hey im looking at getting coilovers within next couple of months.. i was wondering if anyone has experience with these and if they would recommend them? or these coilover vs stance true coilover? do the BC`s go really low? tuck tire front and rear? i ask because i have seen people have issues with the rear? or if there is certain spring rates or struts to go with? any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

There is literally tons of threads on both stance and bc coilovers. Google it and type in g35driver in the search bar after what ever your searching

 

i have but i found it unclear as to what people have said with regards to rear drop with the true setup. and if they bought standard springs or if they had to get shorter springs.

 

The oem type rear for the bc go lower in the rear than the true type. You can get a 175mm rear spring instead of the 200mm spring that comes with it. But the stance will go as low as you need front and rear with the true style.

 

Thanks. would you recommend oem or true type? and also is it easier to adjust with the true type?

 

I would recommend the true type. Much easier to adjust than the oem type. You will also have the option to replace your spring bucket with toe arms for more adjustability. Just keep doing research there is tons of good info.

 

much appreciated. i think im gonna go with true stance coils then. along witth spc camber kit+toe bolts. cant wait to b low!

 

Good choice!

 

If you're going with true coils and eliminating the lower spring bucket, then you might as well do it properly and replace the spring bucket with an adjustable toe arm and put lock-out bolts in place of your eccentric bolts.

Eccentric bolts can slip...typically threaded arms don't.

 

Oh okay thanks. Would it be okay with lockout bolts and toe bolts or u can only do toe arms and lockout bolts?

 

The lockout bolts replace your toe bolts.

The car has eccentric bolts from the factory. Basically, depending on the orientation of the bolts when installed, the mounting point for the rod is slightly moved, and this is where your alignment adjustments come from. There are bolts on the spring bucket piece (these typically control toe), and then there are bolts that attach to the camber arms (these obviously control camber). Now, in the rear, when you adjust toe or camber, it affects the other one, so you kind of have to play with both, but that's another discussion.

Basically, the factory doesn't allow enough adjustment to get the car back to proper specs once it is lowered. The camber arms, being just bars, are just replaced with adjustable length arms. However, the spring bucket is a more complicated piece. To save cost, people use SPC toe bolts, which are bolts that are a little more eccentric than the factory bolts and allow for an extra range of adjustment.

However, the issue with these is that the more eccentric bolt sees more torque on the bolt itself which makes it more susceptible to slipping. But since you are going with a true coil setup - you don't need to have a spring bucket - so you can just replace it with a standard rod style arm (and an adjustable one at that) and then put a lockout bolt in place of the eccentric bolt. The lockout bolts are not eccentric - they basically remove the adjustment that's inherently there from the factory because you don't need it anymore now that you have adjustable arms.

 

Thanks for clearing that up. I think I get it now. So most likely I'm gonna go with the toe arms and lockout bolt. I hope it's not too expensive

 

Assuming you don't have Rear Active Steer (there are versions for RAS):

http://www.splparts.com/SPLRTAZ33.html

That's the part you want. Not cheap, but will be worth it.

This is the lockout bolt kit:

http://www.splparts.com/SPLELZ33.html

If you didn't go with true coils, you would need these:

http://www.splparts.com/chassis-V35.html#SPLRMLZ33

I have KW V3's, which aren't true coils, so I will need those eventually.