System Readiness Test (SRT)
#2
Pattern? In terms of what?
When you reset the codes, there are 4 monitors that are reset and need to complete. I am not sure if there is any specific order for these, but all 4 monitors (on my car at least) usually reset within 10-15 miles of normal driving after a reset.
What are you looking for specifically?
When you reset the codes, there are 4 monitors that are reset and need to complete. I am not sure if there is any specific order for these, but all 4 monitors (on my car at least) usually reset within 10-15 miles of normal driving after a reset.
What are you looking for specifically?
#3
Pattern? In terms of what?
When you reset the codes, there are 4 monitors that are reset and need to complete. I am not sure if there is any specific order for these, but all 4 monitors (on my car at least) usually reset within 10-15 miles of normal driving after a reset.
What are you looking for specifically?
When you reset the codes, there are 4 monitors that are reset and need to complete. I am not sure if there is any specific order for these, but all 4 monitors (on my car at least) usually reset within 10-15 miles of normal driving after a reset.
What are you looking for specifically?
#4
I found this on the web it's called "drive cycle"
1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle until
the engine coolant temperature gauge needle
points between the C and H (normal operating
temperature).
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h),
then quickly release the accelerator pedal
completely and keep it released for at least
10 seconds.
3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a
moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed of
53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least 9
minutes.
4. Stop the vehicle. Leave the engine running.
5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h)
and maintain the speed for 20 seconds.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 10 times.
7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h)
and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes.
8. Stop the vehicle. Place the automatic trans-
mission gear selector lever in the P (Park) or
N (Neutral) position or the manual transmission
shift lever in the N position.
9. Turn the engine off.
10. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one more
time.
If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the
preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable
between steps. Do not stop the engine
1. Start the engine. Allow the engine to idle until
the engine coolant temperature gauge needle
points between the C and H (normal operating
temperature).
2. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h),
then quickly release the accelerator pedal
completely and keep it released for at least
10 seconds.
3. Quickly depress the accelerator pedal for a
moment, then drive the vehicle at a speed of
53 to 60 MPH (86 to 96 km/h) for at least 9
minutes.
4. Stop the vehicle. Leave the engine running.
5. Accelerate the vehicle to 35 MPH (55 km/h)
and maintain the speed for 20 seconds.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 at least 10 times.
7. Accelerate the vehicle to 55 MPH (88 km/h)
and maintain the speed for at least 3 minutes.
8. Stop the vehicle. Place the automatic trans-
mission gear selector lever in the P (Park) or
N (Neutral) position or the manual transmission
shift lever in the N position.
9. Turn the engine off.
10. Repeat steps 1 through 8 at least one more
time.
If step 1 through 7 is interrupted, repeat the
preceding step. Any safe driving mode is acceptable
between steps. Do not stop the engine
#5
The Drive Cycle reset procedure will be different for most cars. This is where you hear people say you must drive 100 miles, or 50 starts of the engine before testing.
Do you have an OBD-2 scanner capable of reading the readiness monitors? Or one that can perform a monitor readiness test?
1000 miles and the two monitors not being ready suggests to me there is an issue with the o2 sensors/cats. They should be reading ready by now. Did you have a CEL on at any point, or a code pertaining to o2 sensors?
I frequently hook up my scanner and reset the codes and watch the monitors complete their cycles. Every single time, it has completed in one start cycle, and within 15 mines. I typically idle for 15 mins, and then 10 mins of driving on back roads around 35MPH and then a 55+ MPH highway trip and that usually does the job.
An OBD-2 scanner has a meu function to drive and watch these as they reset. What you posted however is a typical readiness monitor drive cycle procedure
This is what you'd see on a scanner. This one shows 3 monitors INC (incomplete).
Do you have an OBD-2 scanner capable of reading the readiness monitors? Or one that can perform a monitor readiness test?
1000 miles and the two monitors not being ready suggests to me there is an issue with the o2 sensors/cats. They should be reading ready by now. Did you have a CEL on at any point, or a code pertaining to o2 sensors?
I frequently hook up my scanner and reset the codes and watch the monitors complete their cycles. Every single time, it has completed in one start cycle, and within 15 mines. I typically idle for 15 mins, and then 10 mins of driving on back roads around 35MPH and then a 55+ MPH highway trip and that usually does the job.
An OBD-2 scanner has a meu function to drive and watch these as they reset. What you posted however is a typical readiness monitor drive cycle procedure
This is what you'd see on a scanner. This one shows 3 monitors INC (incomplete).
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needforspeed (01-30-2014)
#6
I really appreciate your input. I thought the same as you, maybe I have bad parts. But the kicker is I don't have cel. I purchased a new HFCs, but my machanic said if you don't have a cel than it might not be the parts and might be your car has not been thru ready cycle. I am going to try your pattern and give you an update.
Thanks
Thanks
#7
What Mustang5 said.
I use a Scangauge to pull these individual sensors and figure out which one isn't yet ready. It's not as pretty as the picture he posted, but it gets the job done.
My guess and the most likely culprit of why you're not getting into a ready-state is that the heater element in one of your oxygen sensors is probably dead. Most downstream O2 sensors have an electric heater in them that warms them up to operating temperature quickly so that your car can accurately measure the exhaust gases, and if that element is dead, the sensor might still otherwise work, but the car is probably not using the data that they are providing due to it never heating up.
If the sensors never heat up, that portion of the readyness test will always stay in the NOT-READY state. I don't know why they don't code those the systems to be smart enough to check if the O2 sensors have not come up to operating temp by a certain time interval (5 minutes lets say) and then throw a code if that happens in like 5 consecutive cycles of the car starting up.
I've also seen situations where the TPS being on the way out has caused this to happen too, but usually you would notice a driveability or idling issue with that in conjunction with a CEL. Most of the other problems related to the system readiness test would throw a check engine light and code when they fail, except for a heater element in an O2 Sensor that initially worked when the car first did and passed it's last readiness test, but has since failed.
Time to buy an OBD-II scanner or borrow one from a friend or auto-parts store.
I use a Scangauge to pull these individual sensors and figure out which one isn't yet ready. It's not as pretty as the picture he posted, but it gets the job done.
My guess and the most likely culprit of why you're not getting into a ready-state is that the heater element in one of your oxygen sensors is probably dead. Most downstream O2 sensors have an electric heater in them that warms them up to operating temperature quickly so that your car can accurately measure the exhaust gases, and if that element is dead, the sensor might still otherwise work, but the car is probably not using the data that they are providing due to it never heating up.
If the sensors never heat up, that portion of the readyness test will always stay in the NOT-READY state. I don't know why they don't code those the systems to be smart enough to check if the O2 sensors have not come up to operating temp by a certain time interval (5 minutes lets say) and then throw a code if that happens in like 5 consecutive cycles of the car starting up.
I've also seen situations where the TPS being on the way out has caused this to happen too, but usually you would notice a driveability or idling issue with that in conjunction with a CEL. Most of the other problems related to the system readiness test would throw a check engine light and code when they fail, except for a heater element in an O2 Sensor that initially worked when the car first did and passed it's last readiness test, but has since failed.
Time to buy an OBD-II scanner or borrow one from a friend or auto-parts store.
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needforspeed (01-30-2014)
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#8
i tried the drive cycle and don't know if i did it right, but still said catalyst and o2 sensor not ready. i have set of hfcs and both side of o2 sensors. should i just swap out both o2 sensor by the cats 1st and see what happens and that dont resoulve the issue than change out the hfcs? or just change both hfcs and 2 o2 sensor at the same time?
thanks
thanks
#9
If you're running HFC's, you might want to try taking out your O2 sensors and soaking them in sensor-cleaner. Make sure whatever you use is sensor-safe. I've heard of people hitting the heads with a torch too if you have one handy. It's possible that your sensors are fouled from the cats putting out richer post-cat exhaust gases.
Switching them might work, but I'm not sure if the system checks each one individually and stores the results in separate registers or both at the same time every time.
Switching them might work, but I'm not sure if the system checks each one individually and stores the results in separate registers or both at the same time every time.
#10
i did install the new HFC, cause one of my cat was bad. i drove about 340miles, but still catalyst and o2 sensor not ready. i did purchased a obdll scanner and i reset the ECU. i took picture of this test result with engine off. anything wrong?
Last edited by needforspeed; 02-05-2014 at 10:03 PM.
#13
Not all cars can do the O2 monitor test. I don't think the G35 can.
Your short term fuel trim seems pretty high. 17-18% would indicate you are a little lean and the computer is adding fuel to compensate. Without seeing how the ST fuel trim acts over a period of time, hard to say if this is an issue. Hard to explain how to use this as a diagnostic tool.
Your O2 voltages look OK.
That scanner looks similar to mine. Look for a screen that says "State OBD2 check" or "Readiness Monitor Check". Those will tell you if your monitors are resetting
Your short term fuel trim seems pretty high. 17-18% would indicate you are a little lean and the computer is adding fuel to compensate. Without seeing how the ST fuel trim acts over a period of time, hard to say if this is an issue. Hard to explain how to use this as a diagnostic tool.
Your O2 voltages look OK.
That scanner looks similar to mine. Look for a screen that says "State OBD2 check" or "Readiness Monitor Check". Those will tell you if your monitors are resetting
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needforspeed (02-06-2014)
#14
Not all cars can do the O2 monitor test. I don't think the G35 can.
Your short term fuel trim seems pretty high. 17-18% would indicate you are a little lean and the computer is adding fuel to compensate. Without seeing how the ST fuel trim acts over a period of time, hard to say if this is an issue. Hard to explain how to use this as a diagnostic tool.
Your O2 voltages look OK.
That scanner looks similar to mine. Look for a screen that says "State OBD2 check" or "Readiness Monitor Check". Those will tell you if your monitors are resetting
Your short term fuel trim seems pretty high. 17-18% would indicate you are a little lean and the computer is adding fuel to compensate. Without seeing how the ST fuel trim acts over a period of time, hard to say if this is an issue. Hard to explain how to use this as a diagnostic tool.
Your O2 voltages look OK.
That scanner looks similar to mine. Look for a screen that says "State OBD2 check" or "Readiness Monitor Check". Those will tell you if your monitors are resetting