G35 exhaust note
No difference in performance for coupes, but yes for sedans.
Also, try to find one with brembos so you don't have to upgrade later.
Take a listen to my exhaust set up.
My mods are z-tube, k&n drop in filter, motordyne plenum spacer, fast intentions resonated test pipes, and an authentic HKS exhaust paired with a Magnaflow resonated x-pipe.
The real world performance between the two is basically the same. Motortrend magazine tested an 04 350Z touring and an 05 350Z touring a really long time ago and found little to no difference on a track test for 0-60 and a quarter mile. The Rev-Up was actually slower in the 0-60, but they said it may have had to due with track conditions.
Regardless.... I personally would go with the non-Rev Up if you have to choose between the two just due to the oil consumption issues.
I know they all have a chance to have the consumption issue, just that the non-rev up is supposed to be better. So I'll probably get one of those but have them check it during the inspection anyways
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
It would cost more than just replacing the engine.
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
Yep. This is why most people just opt for swapping in another motor. Spending all of that money rebuilding a stock motor just to get the car back to running form and maybe get a 5-10% performance benefit from it if you use all high end upgrade/replacement parts and do an overbore along with it. The performance replacement packages tend to cost a lot more too so it doesn't make much sense for most people.
Last edited by partyman66; Sep 22, 2015 at 09:18 PM.
Just add breather/catch can in the pcv valve. I know I'm new here, but I've done a fair bit of research and it would seem that they're not leaking it.
It's simply being sucked through, especially during high revs. I've had a few other cars that would do this too (a Saturn and a 4efte Tercel), and I was actually amazed at how much oil I caught. More importantly how much oil I didn't have to replace.
You can buy them on ebay, but I used an oil/condensation catch can for an air compressor (from Home Depot). It was about as big as my fist. If it can withstand the pressure from an air compressor, I figured it'd manage my PCV valve pressure and driving just fine.
It's simply being sucked through, especially during high revs. I've had a few other cars that would do this too (a Saturn and a 4efte Tercel), and I was actually amazed at how much oil I caught. More importantly how much oil I didn't have to replace.
You can buy them on ebay, but I used an oil/condensation catch can for an air compressor (from Home Depot). It was about as big as my fist. If it can withstand the pressure from an air compressor, I figured it'd manage my PCV valve pressure and driving just fine.


