G35 exhaust note
#33
Also, try to find one with brembos so you don't have to upgrade later.
#35
The real world performance between the two is basically the same. Motortrend magazine tested an 04 350Z touring and an 05 350Z touring a really long time ago and found little to no difference on a track test for 0-60 and a quarter mile. The Rev-Up was actually slower in the 0-60, but they said it may have had to due with track conditions.
Regardless.... I personally would go with the non-Rev Up if you have to choose between the two just due to the oil consumption issues.
#37
I know they all have a chance to have the consumption issue, just that the non-rev up is supposed to be better. So I'll probably get one of those but have them check it during the inspection anyways
#38
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
#39
The valve covers isn't a serious problem and is pretty easy to fix. The real oil consumption problem is due to premature piston ring degradation on the Rev-up motors. I realize you've been here for a while and know this, but I'm mentioning it so the OP knows these are two seperate issues and that there is no cheap fix for worn rings.
#42
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
#43
Tons of money on labor and parts. You have to pull the motor, remove everything from the block and replace the most low-level and core components in the bottom of the block (pistons, rings, rods, wrist pins, caps, and rod bearings). You'd also want to do a hone and possibly a slight overbore on the cylinder walls as well to make sure that you get a nice tight seal with the replacement parts while also checking that your crank journals are within spec. The parts alone wouldn't be cheap but this is a very labor intensive job. I think you can buy bottom end rebuild kits that are around $1300 in parts alone, but I bet it would cost you like another $2-3K in labor or more to have someone else do all the work. Installing all that stuff on a new block wouldn't be bad, but doing so on a used one requires a lot of machining and measurement to make sure the original parts are still in spec.
#44
Yep. This is why most people just opt for swapping in another motor. Spending all of that money rebuilding a stock motor just to get the car back to running form and maybe get a 5-10% performance benefit from it if you use all high end upgrade/replacement parts and do an overbore along with it. The performance replacement packages tend to cost a lot more too so it doesn't make much sense for most people.
Last edited by partyman66; 09-22-2015 at 09:18 PM.
#45
Just add breather/catch can in the pcv valve. I know I'm new here, but I've done a fair bit of research and it would seem that they're not leaking it.
It's simply being sucked through, especially during high revs. I've had a few other cars that would do this too (a Saturn and a 4efte Tercel), and I was actually amazed at how much oil I caught. More importantly how much oil I didn't have to replace.
You can buy them on ebay, but I used an oil/condensation catch can for an air compressor (from Home Depot). It was about as big as my fist. If it can withstand the pressure from an air compressor, I figured it'd manage my PCV valve pressure and driving just fine.
It's simply being sucked through, especially during high revs. I've had a few other cars that would do this too (a Saturn and a 4efte Tercel), and I was actually amazed at how much oil I caught. More importantly how much oil I didn't have to replace.
You can buy them on ebay, but I used an oil/condensation catch can for an air compressor (from Home Depot). It was about as big as my fist. If it can withstand the pressure from an air compressor, I figured it'd manage my PCV valve pressure and driving just fine.