Need help!! P0335 code, randomly stuttering..
 

I was wondering if someone has ran into this before? I have read most of the threads with this issue and tried to do all that was recommended. I have an 07 g35 coupe auto. Im having a weird stuttering problem. its random and feels like im hitting the rev-limiter. Could be when im at 2K, 3K, 4K rpm. mostly when I accelerate sharply. Throws a P0335 code which is the crank sensor code. If the check engine light goes on, it usually goes on with CEL and VDC off light. Sometimes it doesnt throw a light, but has a pending code if you run it with a scanner. I have swapped at least 5 used sensors. Dont think they can all be bad, or could they? But they do behave differently, some of them the stutter is a lot more often, others it very rare. Just for testing purposes, I bypassed the crank wiring all the way to the ecu connector. Also, checked the signal plate, seems like its its good. Also changed two sets of cam sensors. Could it be something else that the ecu doesnt catch that makes it stutter and then the crank sensor picks up the wierd pattern? Kinda lost as of right now.

Nobody responding, but its worth a shot.. Today I bought a brand new nissan crank sensor. Installed it and the car stutters a lot more often. Dies when I put it in drive or reverse. Thought it might be the connector. Swapped the sensors back and forth with the one I can drive with and both of them act pretty much consistent. One stutters fairly rarely when I accelerate fairly hard, and the new one stutters the whole time, cant really drive it.

06g35,

For what is worth, being that you have tried a new sensor and numerous used ones with similar results, yes you could have a connector or wiring problem. I was looking at the circuit diagram and if you have an intermittent ECM Relay that could also cause the problem. Consider swapping it for troubleshooting with another relay in the same fuse block. The relay is located in the IPDM E/R Module, this sits behind the battery on the firewall. Reference service manual section EC, page 378. I recently experienced a similar event with my G, I have posted my problem in the Uh Oh thread. I just ordered a new sensor from rockauto.com.

Good luck:biggthumpup:

I appreciate the response wuzz-upp. Just to give more details on whats going on. I have access to all the parts I need from another 07 g35. I have been swapping everything for the last week or so. I have swapped the whole fuse box with no luck. Swapped the ecu ( and the bcm, ignition and intelligent key computer so I can test it without reprogramming) with no luck. swapped the MAF sensor with throttle body; no luck. Checked the crank signal plate if its aligned and to see if there's any nicks or if its out of round; seems straight (unless it goes out of round when under load if there's a crack in the flyweel).

Wow! sounds like you have been hard at work, I feel for you. Intermittent problems are a pain in the A@#. I have attached a couple if diagrams out of the service manual for you. From the looks of it, I believe you definitely have a faulty connection some where in the harness/connectors. There are a couple of grounds that are identified in the troubleshooting (T/S) section that you should consider looking at. I would follow all the steps for ground T/S and eliminate that portion. FYI, the PG section of the service manual shows a detail view of the harness ground connections and the different harness pin feeds. Search for ground M66 or M30 in the PG section, and you will get there. Don't forget to do a really good detail inspection of the Crankshaft position sensor connector for condition and wiring attachment to the pins.

Good luck, its a lot of work, but I know I don't have to tell you that, you've already invested a lot of time.:banghead:

PROBLEM SOLVED!!

Wazz-upp, I appreciate all your help; however, went through all the diagnostics and didn't get anywhere. So I kinda parked the car for a few weeks and last week decided to take out the tranny hoping to find a cracked flywheel. I didn't find that, but after examining the flywheel against another flywheel I had, I noticed that the mounting surface compared to the signal plate was 1.2mm shorter than of the original meaning that the flywheel was pushed toward the engine basically 1/16th of an inch. This was enough for the car to run perfectly fine until I put a load on it and it would move over just a bit, but enough to get out of range of the crank sensor. This explained why all sensors behaved different. There is a little bit of wiggle room to mount the sensor either closer or further away from the engine but not enough to keep it in range under different loads. If you examine the sensor closely ( put a sharp metal object to the magnetic part ) you will notice that the actual magnet is only about 1/8 of an inch in the middle of the plastic sensor, therefore, would not take much to jump out of the range. I installed the new flywheel and not once did it stutter.

Hope this help someone who might have had or will have this issue. It would probably be just as possible to drill the mounting hole in the sensor just a bit to move it closer or further away from the engine depending on the circumstance..

Wazz-upp, again, I really appreciate the effort to go through this issue with me!!

06g35, truly my pleasure to try and help anyone when I can. !Wow! what a find, that was very good trouble shooting, who would of thunk that? Thank god you have skills, tools and parts, good job Bro!:driving::BOOBIES: I'm trying to figure out how this happened? What do you think caused the signal plate to be off?

Hey I'm so sorry to bring this back up, but I'm having the exact same symptoms as you stated with it stuttering whole flooring it at different rpms. I'm wondering what could have caused the fly wheel to me up? I started having this issue after I changed all my sensors to some cheap eBay sensors. Then I put OEM cam and crank sensors and my issue is still here. I have a pending crank sensor code. What exactly did you do to get the issue fixed? Changed your fly wheel or messed with the sensors install position. And I also find it funny that my sensor doesn't stick all the way into my bell housing because of the o ring. I'm gonna try taking that o-ring off as it wasn't on the one I originally pulled but it was on the OEM sensors I ordered in the mail... (I believe...)

Sensors
 

If I recall, I bought my cam and crank sensors from Rockauto.com. I would focus on the sensor that is sticking out. The distance between the sensor and pick-up point is critical. Use Vaseline on the o-ring and push hard to get the sensor in place, don't remove the o-ring or you may have oil leaking from there. You may think the original sensors you removed did't have them, but I am sure they did. What happen is that the the o-rings got flatten and no longer looked like o-rings.

Your OEM sensor o-ring is probably still stuck in the head and preventing you from fully seating the new sensor.

My sensor basically goes as far as it can, unless it can go further in and I'm unaware of something. But where it sits has 2 different heights on both sides and the side where it actually gets bolted to is stuck out further than the opposite side. So with or without the o-ring it's not getting any further or shorter.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...452360b03.jpeg

So after switching back to the original (which I thought had an issue) the car is fine and I can floor it to my actual redline. It does not and didn't have an o-ring on it.

So now I'm wondering if it's just the sensors I ordered. They claim to be OEM for all 3, all at 40-45 bucks. Can it be confirmed of they are original or not?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173945940894

From what I am looking at, the sensor is still not all the way in.

Yes I apologize, I took the pic while it wasn't screwed in, basically just referencing how much space I had to go and how it wouldn't go further than that basically.

Those are knockoffs, the sticker isn't right. It shouldn't say "NISSAN GROUP" It should just say in big letters "NISSAN" then next to it in smaller print "GENUINE PARTS" like this picture here.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/g35driv...d87decc019.png

Wow, thanks for that insight, I guess I was fooled. Meh well I will try and get my money back and proper sensors ordered.

Often when a good deal seems too go to be true it is. The price for each of the actual Nissan sensors is more than the price of this 3 pack. That's another thing to watch for when shopping for authentic Nissan parts. I can see how people will be fooled by the packaging though, you should report your purchase issue to ebay. It's bad enough people sell this garbage much less have ebay allow it.

Yeah it's super shady. "Nissan Group" is technically the name of the international company after they merged with Renault, everything that we have here stateside is from "Nissan North America" or NNA. Any of their genuine parts either look like that baggy I posted earlier or it will be entirely printed in Japanese. I assume there are other language variants for other countries with large markets but those are the only two I've ever seen.

Did it fix your problem ?

So in the end, all I ended up doing was going back to all the original sensors previously installed on the car.

My passenger side green plug for the cam sensor was super wobbly and would turn the car off if I touched it or if it had to much vibration. So I cut it off and replaced it, then I wouldn't randomly shut down anymore.

The driver side one was fine...

Then I put the original crank shaft sensor back on. This is what really fixed my "limp mode" issue. So basically I put the original one on and cleaned out a bunch of water from inside the plug (which I think was my original issue, check for water) and my car was good as usual.

No issues now except for some reason when my ac is on, my car jerks a little from time to time as If it wants to shut off. I feel like to fix that issue is to get completely new authentic cam sensors.

Oh oknice thank u

I not understand
 

Hello the problem was the flexplate (flywheel) or the sensor (CPK)

2010 infiniti g37x same issue
 

Hi my carbis doing the exact thing...2500 rpm on the nose all 7 gears...changed cam shift position sensor and the VVT solenoid....should I change the fly wheel??

2010 infiniti g37x same issue
 

Hi..so...I have a 2010 G37X and I have been chasing the white rabbit too! I see the have tumbled far down the rabbit hole but think you have my answer. So in all 7 gears my car will not pass 2500 rpms much like yours. I have cha get the VVT SOLENOID & Cam shift position sensor. I see you dropped the Trans and replaced the fly wheel...any recommendations before I do this also???

Is your car throwing the P0335 code?

If yes did you replace the CRANKSHAFT (not camshaft) sensor with either a Genuine Nissan OEM part OR a Hitachi? These cars are well known to not play nice with any aftermarket sensor.

Thanks a lot for this info! I had the same issue with stuttering and P0335 and it was caused by bent flexplate, like you described!