I have an 04 coupe with stillen intake and z1 intake manifold spacer. Nothing crazy but ive been racing a couple cars this month and feel like my rev limiter is killing me. at 6600 it cuts the fuel or whatever and i feel like i need a little more room. ordering a short shifter soon so that will help but i came across this cheap item with good reviews was wondering if anyone has it on thier g35. id like to be shifting around 6600-6800 but have some room so i dont loose a race again hitting the rev limiter

http://www.magnumtuning.com/en/detai.../infiniti/g35#

This is all i could find other than technotech 500 or reflash or whatever else seems everything is around 500. With my mods a osiris flash would be a waste of money and this seems like a cheap alternative


Anyone have this?

 

Mostly stock VQ35DE's without upgraded cams or forced induction fall off in power sharply after around 6200 RPM. Take a look at any dyno chart from an '03-'04 G35 Coupe or 350Z and you'll see what I'm talking about.

If you're losing a race (hopefully at the track) right now with the stock rev limiter, you probably will lose that same race with a slightly higher rev limiter too. The only exception would be in circle track racing where having the slightly higher rev limiter lets you stay in 2nd gear slightly longer instead of hitting 3rd gear or bouncing off of the rev limiter when you could still be going slightly faster without the extra of a shift.

If you're doing straight line 1/4 or 1/8 mile racing on a track, the higher rev limiter won't matter since you will be in 3rd gear no matter what at the end of a 1/8 and in 4th gear no matter what for a 1/4 mile race (unless you raised your limiter to 7500 for a 1/4 mile).... just shift at or slightly below the current redline since it's safer for the motor, cheaper and basically just as fast. You're better off spending that money on a real tune or other mods.

G35's aren't good straight line racers. They carry a lot of excess weight and don't produce a lot of extra power from most affordable common mods.

 

Learn to shift better.

Learn to drive better.

Learn to race better.

There, I just saved you $500. This isn't a fault of the car, it's doing what it's supposed to be doing. You on the other hand, are a different story.

 

You didnt save me anything and you didn't have to be a dick about it. And the product I'm asking about isn't 500 that's the whole point of this thread. I don't post on here and people like you is the reason.

Thanks to the other poster with all the good info. I kinda worded it wrong. I like to shift at the best spot but stay a distance away from the rev limiter. with the cars I'm racing if I hit the limiter I loose. I need a little more play room with the limiter even if I stay shifting around 6400 Like I try to do.

This is way cheaper than a 500 ecu flash but I found no info when searched for this car that's why I posted. This isn't about how to shift whose better a shifting or whatever.

My twin turbo 300zx chipped I don't have to worry about it I can just run it . This car isnt like that

 

Thanks for the info. I actually only lost to one car so far and everytime I try him I hit the rev limiter already beat newer v6 camaro, newer v6 charger, newer v6 challenger, mazda3, and a 01 mustang v8 . Dude I can't beat is a 2014 dodge charger r/t v8. He gets me by a fender lol it's a good car at straight lines because of the top end. At least against muscle cars . Guess with the limiter second gear giving me problems while trying to watch the road and all not trying to buy someone's car. I usually hit it in second

 

I'm sorry that I didn't write it sensitive enough for you. I'm sorry that I didn't think about your feelings while writing the truth, and I'm sorry that I came across as a dick. Let's try to rephrase this shall we?

Partyman pointed out the fault in your shift points: the G35's power drops off significantly past 6200, so shifting at 6600 is not doing you any favors. What he's trying to tell you is that no matter what you do in terms of electronically or physically moving the rev limiter, you're still going to lose significant power past 6200, so shifting at 6600-6800 with more room on the rpm isn't going to make a difference.

You need more room on the rpm while shifting. Here is a free and easy solution: shift at 6200 rpms. Voila, you now have an extra 400 rpms of wiggle room before hitting that rev limiter, easy peasy. As an added bonus, you stay in the power of the VQ35 engine.

Your welcome.

 

You actually do want to shift close to the stock redline because it will put you at a higher RPM after the upshift and into a more peaky power zone of the powerband when you bang into the next gear, but going higher than the factory will be counterproductive because the power at the redline after the dropoff is about the same as where you'd be in the next highest gear after your upshift.

Check this out:

http://www.car-videos.net/tools/spee...B1=Recalculate

This is a gear/Speed/RPM chart for a stock geared 2003-2004 G35 Coupe. Take your speed at any gear at a specific RPM (say for 3rd gear at redline of 87.3 MPH) and slide over one column to the right and check the RPM at that same speed(puts you at around 5150 in 4th gear), then cross-reference those RPMs with a dyno chart for a car with mods similar to yours and try to come up with what shift points keep you in the most average power.

To benefit truly from higher redline, you'd need at least high flow cats and exhaust and a real actual tune.

It sounds like this guy is street racing.... just so you know, street racing talk is banned on here. Take it to the track where you don't have to worry about "buying someone else's car" or maybe taking someone else's life.

 

Uprev tune isn't a waste even with your current mods. It can bump the rev limiter to 7k, and help get the most out of your engine. I've seen threads where Uprev shows impressive gains on purely stock engines.

That product you linked looks like it can cause more problems than good. Soldering a quartz crystal to the ECU? Product even says you'll need some kind of fuel controller. So a cheap hack will end up costing more anyway.

I vote pass and to stick with a proven engine management solution: Uprev flash, standalone, etc.

 

Thanks for the reply on the product. The whole point was really just to see if anyone has used it and going by the responses I see the clear answer. I said it was a waste because I just a muffler delete. If I do uprev I'd like to do hfc, and a real muffler then to the tune that way I'd have most the bolts onS when I did the tune. thanks everyone I got everything I needed. This is track use. I just wish I had a little more room before I hit that limiter sometimes I take my eyes off the rpm gauge in second then hit it. Need better tires really Too. I'll probably just save up get the rest of the bolt ons then tune. That's just a good chunk of change compared to that product that's why I figured I'd give it a shot to ask what others think. I'll slowly piece it is together

 

Uprev Etunes are pretty cheap. You can install now, then after adding more parts just get retuned.