I have a 2005 G35 Coupe and love it with one minor exception, it periodically will not start! I purchased the car used in 2012 and, since 2013, it has periodically not started without any warning. It seems to occur after it has been driven for a while and typically is fine when it is cold. When it does this, the car does not crank at all - I turn the key and I hear a minor click and then nothing.


I have had it tested on multiple occasions and no-one can figure out the problem. Since I have purchased, I have replaced the starter (8/2014), replaced the battery (4/2015) and replaced the ground strap and battery cables (5/2015). The alternator, starter and battery all currently test ok.


It would not start this weekend and I am about to throw in the towel... despite my stubborn streak of refusing to give in. I absolutely love the car but it has become too unreliable.


I welcome any feedback or guidance from the G35 community! - Woody

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2005/sc.pdf

I would start here with a battery hydrometer and a multimeter



"Check the charge condition of the battery.
Periodically check the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Keep a
close check on charge condition to prevent over-discharge."

See page SC 10

"System Description
AKS003Z1
M/T MODEL
Power is supplied at all times


through 40A fusible link (letter M, located in the fuse and fusible link block)


to ignition switch terminal 1,


through 10A fuse (No. 71, located in the IPDM E/R)


to CPU of IPDM E/R,


through 15A fuse (No. 78, located in the IPDM E/R)


to CPU of IPDM E/R.
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied


from ignition relay (located in the IPDM E/R)


to 10A fuse (No. 89, located in the IPDM E/R)


through IPDM E/R terminal 25


to clutch interlock switch terminal 1.
When the clutch pedal is depressed, power is supplied


through clutch interlock switch terminal 2


to IPDM E/R terminal 53.
Ground is supplied


to IPDM E/R terminals 38, 50 and 60


from grounds E17 and E43.
Then starter relay is turn ON.
With the ignition switch in the START position, IPDM E/R is energized and power is supplied


from ignition switch terminal 5


to IPDM E/R terminal 4 and


through IPDM E/R terminal 3


to starter motor terminal 1.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the engine block. With power and ground supplied, cranking occurs and the
engine starts.

Use your multimeter after confirming there are no shorted or defective battery cells

Good luck


Telcoman

 

Maybe the starter solenoid is going bad or the starter motor acts up when it gets hot? Did you buy an OEM or rebuilt one?

 

Minor click when the key is turned either means the starter solenoid is sticking or the voltage reaching the starter is too weak (possibly from an erratic connection at the battery terminals).

If the headlights come on full blast and the radio and interior fan work just fine when it won't start then it's probably your starter solenoid. In this case, a replacement starter will solve the problem.

Try taking a piece of 2x4 wood and resting it on the starter and giving the end of the wood a solid smack or two with a hammer to see if the jolt unsticks the solenoid. This is just to test the theory or get yourself out of a pinch. You should still replace the starter ASAP if it's stuck like this since this won't work all the time or forever and it will eventually get worse. What you definitely don't want happening is the starter to get stuck in the engaged state where the motor is actually spinning the starter. This can mess things up bad.

 

I am starting to have this issue, but I am pretty confident it is related to the clutch switch. If I don't depress the clutch at all, it acts the same way. Basically, I turn the key, everything works as normal, once going to the start nothing happens and everything just "turns off" no crank or anything. Exactly the same as when not pushing the clutch.

Do you have a clutch? Has anyone run into issues with the clutch switches going bad?

 

Thanks for feedback everyone - busy week so I was unable to respond.


Telcoman - Appreciate the info - I will dig into it deeper. Interesting enough, the IPDM has surfaced a few times in my research. I am curious whether there is any way to test if that is bad


Partyman - we did this test earlier and ended up replacing the starter with a new on (not rebuilt). The starter has also tested ok recently


Madmike - I do not have a clutch