I need help knocking but not sure what from
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I need help knocking but not sure what from
Hey guys I new to the forum and my car is knocking but I don't know what from and it's freaking me out cause I don't know why it's knocking got the car with 74k miles not it has 75k don't know if it's my vvt solenoid or rod knock I have an after market bottom manifold so don't know what it could be plzzz help me out
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It's almost impossible for us to diagnose that on the internet with little information. Post up a video with the motor running, preferably of the motor with the hood up and relatively close to where you hear the noise. Did you have the car checked out by a mechanic before you bought it, has the noise been happening since you bought it, how's the level and quality of the oil?
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It's almost impossible for us to diagnose that on the internet with little information. Post up a video with the motor running, preferably of the motor with the hood up and relatively close to where you hear the noise. Did you have the car checked out by a mechanic before you bought it, has the noise been happening since you bought it, how's the level and quality of the oil?
Good god... that motor is done. If it's knocking that bad at idle and has been knocking fir over 1000 miles you've already got crank damage and it's not worth tearing apart to fix.
The previous owner most likely ran it out of oil due to worn rings or complete lack of maintenance.
You're going to need to buy a new motor if you plan yo keep the car. Don't drive it... it's about to explode and you'll just end up having to get it towed and pay to clean up all the oil it dumps on the road when it blows.
The previous owner most likely ran it out of oil due to worn rings or complete lack of maintenance.
You're going to need to buy a new motor if you plan yo keep the car. Don't drive it... it's about to explode and you'll just end up having to get it towed and pay to clean up all the oil it dumps on the road when it blows.
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Check to make sure you aren't super low on oil, definitely sounds like rod knock though. Might have spun a bearing, did this just start happening out of the blue or is it something that's gotten progressively worse over time?
When rod knock appears out of nowhere and it's substantial like that it's usually a spun bearing or something equally devastating.
Get it on an OBD2 scanner and check everything just to rule it out, a stethoscope is going to be pretty useless when it's that loud so I wouldn't even bother. Any other details you care to share about the vehicle, you say you only had it for 1k miles? Where did you get it from?
When rod knock appears out of nowhere and it's substantial like that it's usually a spun bearing or something equally devastating.
Get it on an OBD2 scanner and check everything just to rule it out, a stethoscope is going to be pretty useless when it's that loud so I wouldn't even bother. Any other details you care to share about the vehicle, you say you only had it for 1k miles? Where did you get it from?
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It just started at 75k haven't driven it since because of the sound and now it sits and ran the codes nothing came up at all I have an after market bottom manifold and it's straight piped but it didn't get low on oil I checked so don't know how that would have got caused
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Depends on how hard it's been driven for the life of the motor, how long the interval was on oil changes, what type of oil/filter was used for the life of the motor, etc. Bearings are wearable components and if you get particles of debris between it and he spinning surface (like from long oil change intervals) then friction begins to heat the material and when the temp is high enough (from friction) it grabs the crank surface, strips out the alignment keeper on the bearing and it begins to spin with the crank until friction is higher on the other side.
It's usually pretty easy to tell if it was a spun bearing though, drain your oil into a VERY clean pan, dredge a magnet through it for some time and you will almost always come up with metal particles. You can also dissect the oil filter and check the media for metal. You can also disconnect the drive belts from the motor, take out the spark plugs, and turn the motor by hand, it has a different feel when the bearing is spun (usually). There should also be enough room to lift up the front of the vehicle, install a motor top suport across the hood rails, take off the bottom support member and drop the oil pan for a visual check.
It might also be a bad wrist pin or something less devastating than the spun main/rod bearings, even if it is a bearing the motor is not necessarily ruined, I've replaced bearing sets, filled it up with oil/new filter, run for 10min, change oil/filter, and driven the motor with zero issues before. It just depends on how much metal shavings were pumped around the rest of the engine.
The rev-limiter is still intact on the motor right and not digitally deleted? Any other mods besides the lower intake and exhaust mods? Did you buy this vehicle from a dealer or private party?
It's usually pretty easy to tell if it was a spun bearing though, drain your oil into a VERY clean pan, dredge a magnet through it for some time and you will almost always come up with metal particles. You can also dissect the oil filter and check the media for metal. You can also disconnect the drive belts from the motor, take out the spark plugs, and turn the motor by hand, it has a different feel when the bearing is spun (usually). There should also be enough room to lift up the front of the vehicle, install a motor top suport across the hood rails, take off the bottom support member and drop the oil pan for a visual check.
It might also be a bad wrist pin or something less devastating than the spun main/rod bearings, even if it is a bearing the motor is not necessarily ruined, I've replaced bearing sets, filled it up with oil/new filter, run for 10min, change oil/filter, and driven the motor with zero issues before. It just depends on how much metal shavings were pumped around the rest of the engine.
The rev-limiter is still intact on the motor right and not digitally deleted? Any other mods besides the lower intake and exhaust mods? Did you buy this vehicle from a dealer or private party?
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There is a plenium spacer and intake spacer and something else and I got it privately but knew the guy that had it, oil changes regularly and if I spun a bearing since I caught it right as it happened would the engine still be able to be saved and would a CEL come on if i did cause it feels like I lost a lost of compression in the motor 1k-2800 rpms is fine at 3k it just doesn't want to accelerate at all, so I'm just trying to figure out if I'm going to need a new motor I hope not cause I'm only 18 and have things to pay still 😭
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If it were mine I'd get it up I'm the air and get the oil pan off for a good look at the rotating assy, that'll tell you if it's salvageable or not. As long as the rotating surface isn't damaged you can usually ghetto fix stuff like that if cash is an issue. I've gone to some pretty extreme measures in the past to make vehicles run including swapping wrist pins from the bottom end without removing pistons and other wonkiness.
Just know that if you do repairs this way that it's not going to last very long usually and it always has an inherent risk of kabooming the motor (which is probably damaged anyways).
I wouldn't go any further with assuming the problem until you can actually take a look at the rotating assy.
Something to note, I don't know exactly where the oil pump is and if there's a pressure gauge that can be read with an OBD2 scanner but you might have just had a pump give up the ghost.
Just know that if you do repairs this way that it's not going to last very long usually and it always has an inherent risk of kabooming the motor (which is probably damaged anyways).
I wouldn't go any further with assuming the problem until you can actually take a look at the rotating assy.
Something to note, I don't know exactly where the oil pump is and if there's a pressure gauge that can be read with an OBD2 scanner but you might have just had a pump give up the ghost.
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If it were mine I'd get it up I'm the air and get the oil pan off for a good look at the rotating assy, that'll tell you if it's salvageable or not. As long as the rotating surface isn't damaged you can usually ghetto fix stuff like that if cash is an issue. I've gone to some pretty extreme measures in the past to make vehicles run including swapping wrist pins from the bottom end without removing pistons and other wonkiness.
Just know that if you do repairs this way that it's not going to last very long usually and it always has an inherent risk of kabooming the motor (which is probably damaged anyways).
I wouldn't go any further with assuming the problem until you can actually take a look at the rotating assy.
Something to note, I don't know exactly where the oil pump is and if there's a pressure gauge that can be read with an OBD2 scanner but you might have just had a pump give up the ghost.
Just know that if you do repairs this way that it's not going to last very long usually and it always has an inherent risk of kabooming the motor (which is probably damaged anyways).
I wouldn't go any further with assuming the problem until you can actually take a look at the rotating assy.
Something to note, I don't know exactly where the oil pump is and if there's a pressure gauge that can be read with an OBD2 scanner but you might have just had a pump give up the ghost.