Why do that unless you are positive that is the cause of your problem?

What is actually amazing is how many inexperienced owners start doing things to their vehicles without ever consulting the proper FSM for their vehicles and following the troubleshooting steps.
Most likely too embarrassed to report back here on how much time and money they wasted by avoiding a proper diagnosis at a dealer and removing all the crappy non OEM parts they wasted money on?

Telcoman

 

Because it takes less than 5 minutes and it's never bad to have a clean MAF.

 

FYI - I bought scanner for <$10 and downloaded the free OBD Car Doctor app, and it's been great for checking and clearing codes (Samsung S...6? maybe 7?).

 

@g356sp
I bought a different Scanner off ... cost about $20. Have you tried any other apps besides "OBD Car Doctor App?" I've watched a Youtube video of someone using an app called " " on a G37 sedan. I should get my scanner tomorrow.

@LoSt180
Shout out to LoSt180 for suggesting I check my electrical connections from the suspension installs. The connector for the wheel sensors wasn't connected at the differential. I guess I was rushing to see how the car performed with new bushings. I plugged it in and all the lights disappeared... clean dash.

I started the car from a first cold morning start. It took about 3-5 seconds of the starter turning until the car started. I let it idle to operating temperature. Once there, the RPM's sat around 800 - 900 RPM's. I took it for a test drive and the acceleration was sharper than it ever has been since I've owned it (I'm guessing cam and crank sensor at work). Shortly after, the acceleration started sputtering and hesitating around 2500 - 3000 RPM's and stayed that way above that range (I'm guessing fail safe limp mode), no CEL.

I parked it, got ready for school and drove to school 8 miles away... during that commute of sputtering and hesitant acceleration, the CEL lit up. I'm starting to think the MAF is malfunctioning because of how the car sputters and hesitates the longer I drive, in regards to temperature and operation with respect to time.

When the OBDII scanner comes in I'll check it tomorrow. I'm tempted to get a new MAF sensor after seeing try this as it solved his problem. I'll follow up later. Thanks guys.

 

Now that you finally have a CEL, the code scanner will give you a better idea of where to start so you're not just throwing parts at an unknown issue.

 

Hooray! The old visual inspection to the rescue. Years ago I couldn't figure out why I had a noise in the front left suspension. Turned out the previous owner forgot to completely mount the brake hose bolts down and it was flopping around.

 

My failing coil pack behaved in almost the same way, it misfired more and more as the car heated up until my mechanical sympathy prevented me from driving it. The Scotty Kilmer channel is great but it's not exactly a proper diagnosis worthy of dropping $150 on a new OEM MAF sensor for, and certainly no reason to swap out your likely perfectly fine, quality MAF for a potentially unreliable aftermarket unit that's still $80 for a decent brand.

 

That's the guy that works without jack stands lmao. No thanks :burnout:!

 

I actually watch that channel and happen to think he's good at what he does so I was surprised when you said that:
Must be someone else, whew.

 

I tried another one (I want to say it was fusion but I can't remember) that I couldn't get to work, otherwise no. I know "OBD Car Doc" will check/clear codes with the free version as well as view some engine parameters so you can see if a sensor is flat-lining, which is all I've needed it for thus far.



hahahaha holy sh*t, that guy is a character knowing a bunch of old coots like that, I'm surprised his videos aren't 5x longer and full of rambling.

 

Confirmed Code: P0507 - Idle Air Control System RPM Higher Than expected
Pending Code: P0113 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit High

These are the codes throwing the CEL. I bought a new MAF sensor but I haven't installed it.

I'm going to try the idle speed relearn procedure one more time. If that doesn't work then I will install the new MAF sensor... which I believe is where the intake air temperature sensor is.

 

Idle speed relearn cleaned up the sputtering and hesitation. It's still there but barely noticeable. The long/hard 3-5 start is still there. The P0507 & P0113 codes are now gone... but we have some new ones.

Pending Code: P0300 - Random/Mutiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Type: Powertrain - Ignition system or Misfire - ISO/SAE
Description: Random misfire
Cause: Wiring, mechanical fault, fuel system, EGR valve, injector, intake/ignition system, CKP sensor, HO2S front, ECM

Pending Code: P0171 - System Too Lean
Type: Powertrain - Fuel and Air Metering - ISO/SAE Controlled
Description: Fuel Trim - Bank 1 - mixture too lean
Cause: Wiring, exhaust system, HO2S front, fuel system, injector, MAF Sensor, ECM

@g356sp
I got the OBD Car Doc free app and bought the OBD fusion app ($10). OBD fusion blows OBD car doc out the water in terms of information provided. It took some finagling, but I got it to work properly (editing IP address and Subnet mask). If you still have it I can help you with it. It provided all the information above in this post... OBD Car Doc provided the the limited info in the previous one.

I'm trying to determine the next step. I've highlighted all the causes that are in common with both codes. I'll check them out maybe Friday. I have a ton of homework already.

Here's a vid of my hard/long starts:

 

Inspect the couplers on your intake for cracks, as well as the PCV hose that connects to the intake. Run hand along bottom edge of coupler around the throttle body and make sure it didn't get folded under when you installed the intake, don't ask how I know to check that.

High idle, running lean, and misfire sounds like it's getting unmetered air, pointing to a vacuum leak. You've changed so much recently that it's hard to tell if something is broke or just user error.

 

I checked for cracks and hissing noises coming from the PCV hoses and also the intake. It all looks good no sounds. The next thing I checked was the coil packs and spark plugs. I checked the resistance on all coil packs and they all ranged around 1.65 - 1.7 (forgot units... I believe kOhms). The spark plug closest to the steering wheel looked really burned, and was seized up. I had to muscle it out (I'm guessing someone forgot anti-seize). I cleaned up the coils and installed and torqued new NGK Platinum Laser plugs. Car runs the same with a long/hard start, and now the P0300 is confirmed instead of pending. It's beginning to look more like a fuel problem. I'll check that in a few.

 

Can your scan tool read live data?