So i got an 04 g35 coupe started overheating out of no where. *usually happens around that time* so i decided to replace the rad with a mishimoto rad thermostat with an oem one from infiniti mishimoto silicone hoses went away for a few weeks. And then heres the B/s water pump started screaming like a banshee in heat replaced it immediately... do all my own work. Drove it to work didnt overheat at all but then started overheating at night -.-. I dont have fluids mixing or losing any fluids. Any thoughts? Note heater blows cold and only gets hot when in idle. Not in motion last thing im missing is fans but theyre spinning when i turn on my a.c.

 

Hmm, I'd start by using a spill free funnel and really burping out the air. I thought I got it all out and paid a shop to do it because I was still having heat issues... and it still had air in it.

 

What urban said. I had air in my coolant (pretty common on vq engines) after a diy flush and was only able to rid it after pointing the car up incline (you could also jack the front end), using a spillless funnel, letting the engine warm to temp, and a few cycles of low rev/idle for 10 secs and I saw a big bubble come up through the funnel. Run the heat while you do it and you can feel when it blows constant toasty at warm idle.

In my case i was still having some higher than normal temps after burping and found my thermostat was on the way out and was only partially opening...but I would start with giving it a good burp.

 

Thanks guys imma give it another go tomorrow any chance you guys know how long i gotta let it burp for? Havent found detailed info as time -.- but when i purged it a fatass air bubble came out but still overhearing lol

 

I dunno about time, I took about 30 minutes of wandering from cabin to Underhood and enjoying some beer before I was quasi confident I got it. I remember it felt like forever...lol. I think the blowing constant heat while idle and temp gauge reading around the middle is a good indicator...mine went from only blowing lukewarm when holding rev @2500 to constant lukewarm to constant toasty warm (what you expect when the heat is set on 90 and the engine is warm).

I forgot to add that there is a bleeder screw on the passenger side near the firewall and the battery. I would carefully unscrew that slightly while doing the car was idling. If there is air in the hose up top, you will hear it bubble out under pressure. Tighten it back (gently - it's plastic) when you get a dribble of coolant.

good luck, hope you get it.

 

What is normal temp that way i know? If you guys know and thanks for the help

 

Coolant temp can fluctuate greatly over the course of a drive so that's probably not going to help you. One thing that hasn't been mentioned is the temp of your upper and lower radiator hoses. They should both be hot to the touch and if one of them isn't it's helped some people to massage/squeeze them repeatedly to get more air out of the system.