Power Adder Combination Setup ?
#1
Power Adder Combination Setup ?
Warning........ I'm a NOOOOOOB !
But I have been doing allot of reading, and I think I have an idea of what I want to do and I wanted to get some advice.
First off, this is my daily driver and I do not want to do anything that will compromise reliability.
Secondly, I'm looking for simple mods that is the most bang for the buck.
I'm not looking for top end speed. I like 0-60, just quick and fun to drive around town.
I want to go with, Plenum spacer, Z-Tube and a Aluminum pulley.
I read that increasing the intake volume looses your bottom end torque but I hope the aftermarket pulley will compensate.
Are there any other mods that are easy and give me some more HP ?
Exhaust is my problem.
I flat out, don't like the sound.
I listened to a forum on here that had over 20 sound bites of different aftermarket exhaust, I like the sound when they are close to red-line, but i'm not gonna be driving like that.
Also, I read that if you do a full exhaust you lose torque. But gain HP on the top end.....I'm not going to be driving like that.
I want to cut off the cats and weld pipe in place of them. Isn't that the same thing as "test pipes" ?
I would like to do headers also. But leave the factory muffler because it's quite.
I did see a full exhaust that is adjustable, variable from quiet to loud, but its like 4,000 bucks.
Would leaving the factory muffler negate the advantages of headers and test-pipes ?
Really Appreciate ANY and All Advice/Criticism.
But I have been doing allot of reading, and I think I have an idea of what I want to do and I wanted to get some advice.
First off, this is my daily driver and I do not want to do anything that will compromise reliability.
Secondly, I'm looking for simple mods that is the most bang for the buck.
I'm not looking for top end speed. I like 0-60, just quick and fun to drive around town.
I want to go with, Plenum spacer, Z-Tube and a Aluminum pulley.
I read that increasing the intake volume looses your bottom end torque but I hope the aftermarket pulley will compensate.
Are there any other mods that are easy and give me some more HP ?
Exhaust is my problem.
I flat out, don't like the sound.
I listened to a forum on here that had over 20 sound bites of different aftermarket exhaust, I like the sound when they are close to red-line, but i'm not gonna be driving like that.
Also, I read that if you do a full exhaust you lose torque. But gain HP on the top end.....I'm not going to be driving like that.
I want to cut off the cats and weld pipe in place of them. Isn't that the same thing as "test pipes" ?
I would like to do headers also. But leave the factory muffler because it's quite.
I did see a full exhaust that is adjustable, variable from quiet to loud, but its like 4,000 bucks.
Would leaving the factory muffler negate the advantages of headers and test-pipes ?
Really Appreciate ANY and All Advice/Criticism.
#3
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Plenum spacer will not lose torque, there's nothing but gains from using one. It's not intake VOLUME that changes where power is made it's the intake RUNNERS and the velocity of the air traveling down them at various engine speeds. Adding a plenum spacer between the upper and lower intake does not change runner length or size, it simply corrects an engineering deficiency.
Test pipes are just straight sections of pipe in place of the catalytic converter so yes cutting out the cats and welding pipe will achieve the same effect, however, it will also likely cause downstream O2 sensor errors so you will also need a way to subtract airflow from them. Using 2 or 3 non-foulers will likely work, just drill out the first one so it's only restricting flow on one. Essentially you're creating a nipple that moves the O2 sensor away from the stream of airflow.
Headers will make a fairly large change in where your engine makes power, you will lose low end but gain top end. Without substantial supporting exhaust mods and are doing this for race/track purposes I wouldn't bother with the headers.
It sounds like you're probably working on a tight budget. You should look into getting the y-pipe from either a DE coupe or HR equipped sedan, that will change your exhaust note and not be obnoxious nor have drone/rasp. It's a good starting point and you can pick up used ones for really cheap usually. I also STRONGLY recommend resonated test pipes or you start to end up with significant rasp, you will likely also have to add another resonator after the y-pipe if you go with an aftermarket muffler. These motors are screaming noisy bitches and create a lot of sounds that make your ears miserable when you start chopping out all the factory equipment to keep it mild sounding.
I also STRONGLY recommend you spend a lot more time researching this stuff on the forums, all these questions have been answered many many MANY times, some of them many THOUSANDS of times.
Test pipes are just straight sections of pipe in place of the catalytic converter so yes cutting out the cats and welding pipe will achieve the same effect, however, it will also likely cause downstream O2 sensor errors so you will also need a way to subtract airflow from them. Using 2 or 3 non-foulers will likely work, just drill out the first one so it's only restricting flow on one. Essentially you're creating a nipple that moves the O2 sensor away from the stream of airflow.
Headers will make a fairly large change in where your engine makes power, you will lose low end but gain top end. Without substantial supporting exhaust mods and are doing this for race/track purposes I wouldn't bother with the headers.
It sounds like you're probably working on a tight budget. You should look into getting the y-pipe from either a DE coupe or HR equipped sedan, that will change your exhaust note and not be obnoxious nor have drone/rasp. It's a good starting point and you can pick up used ones for really cheap usually. I also STRONGLY recommend resonated test pipes or you start to end up with significant rasp, you will likely also have to add another resonator after the y-pipe if you go with an aftermarket muffler. These motors are screaming noisy bitches and create a lot of sounds that make your ears miserable when you start chopping out all the factory equipment to keep it mild sounding.
I also STRONGLY recommend you spend a lot more time researching this stuff on the forums, all these questions have been answered many many MANY times, some of them many THOUSANDS of times.
#4
Many many thanks.
Looks like i need more reading.
I don't like asking questions that everyone answered already, but every time I use the search, it shows 500 results, and I don't see the key words I entered in the search bar.
Is there a help button that tells you how to use the search? Maybe I don't know how to use it. Because from my experience, it sucks.
Looks like i need more reading.
I don't like asking questions that everyone answered already, but every time I use the search, it shows 500 results, and I don't see the key words I entered in the search bar.
Is there a help button that tells you how to use the search? Maybe I don't know how to use it. Because from my experience, it sucks.
#5
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PWS (03-31-2019)
#6
I do appreciate the guidance. I found a great link that explains in detail, numerous mods for the G35.
https://low-offset.com/infiniti/best...edan/#more-490
So I'm looking at test pipes with resonators.
This this guy replaced his stillen HFC with motordyne and got an increase of 10 whp ! I think that is amazing, considering most claims are 10whp compared to STOCK.
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...art-pipes.html
I'm trying to compare apples and oranges. Either the Gent 5 test pipe, or the Motordyne. Both have resonators, but does the motordyne really have than much more performance over the Gent-5 ?
Are there any other Test Pipes with resonators that are a better bang for the buck ?
https://low-offset.com/infiniti/best...edan/#more-490
So I'm looking at test pipes with resonators.
This this guy replaced his stillen HFC with motordyne and got an increase of 10 whp ! I think that is amazing, considering most claims are 10whp compared to STOCK.
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...art-pipes.html
I'm trying to compare apples and oranges. Either the Gent 5 test pipe, or the Motordyne. Both have resonators, but does the motordyne really have than much more performance over the Gent-5 ?
Are there any other Test Pipes with resonators that are a better bang for the buck ?
#7
Sounds like what you really want is a shorter rear end (g37 vert open diff, g37s auto VLSD) for much better low end pull without the many downsides to test pipes or a need to tune the car especially if you're not going to be driving it hard at high speeds like you say.
All of the following are better starting mods than test pipes IMO
Front suspension rebuild with Whiteline polyurethane bushings
Transgo shift kit
Poly Differential bushings/z1 subframe spacer
Oil catch can
Sway bars
Brembos/Akebonos
All of the following are better starting mods than test pipes IMO
Front suspension rebuild with Whiteline polyurethane bushings
Transgo shift kit
Poly Differential bushings/z1 subframe spacer
Oil catch can
Sway bars
Brembos/Akebonos
Last edited by cswlightning; 03-31-2019 at 09:57 AM.
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PWS (03-31-2019)
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#8
I'm probably overthinking everything. LOL. I can't find anything on this forum with the search function, so I don't really see the point of a forum if I have to google everything to get answers. If I ask dumb questions people tell me it's been covered 1,000 times on this forum. But I can't find it with the search bar.
I did get a better understanding of the test pipe. From what I'm reading you can gain 10 hp and still keep your factory exhaust. I saw a set of test of resonated test pipes from Gent5 for 115 bucks. So I may add those to my list.
You are right on the shorter gear ! Are you saying take the rear end from a G37 ? I read that people say the g37 feels allot faster, maybe 1st and 2nd are shorter ? That is a GREAT idea. Do you have any links on this ? I will google.
Im happy with how it handles. I like to keep the soft luxury ride. So I don't know if I need to use polyurethane bushings, I hear they are really stiff.
The sway bars slow body roll right ? So it will hang corners better. Do the sway bars make the ride stiffer when going in a straight line? I like a soft ride.
Thank You for the reply and the IDEAS !!
I did get a better understanding of the test pipe. From what I'm reading you can gain 10 hp and still keep your factory exhaust. I saw a set of test of resonated test pipes from Gent5 for 115 bucks. So I may add those to my list.
You are right on the shorter gear ! Are you saying take the rear end from a G37 ? I read that people say the g37 feels allot faster, maybe 1st and 2nd are shorter ? That is a GREAT idea. Do you have any links on this ? I will google.
Im happy with how it handles. I like to keep the soft luxury ride. So I don't know if I need to use polyurethane bushings, I hear they are really stiff.
The sway bars slow body roll right ? So it will hang corners better. Do the sway bars make the ride stiffer when going in a straight line? I like a soft ride.
Thank You for the reply and the IDEAS !!
#9
#10
ART pipes are more expensive for a reason, they have engineered hiemholtz resonators built in to quiet drone.
If you're looking for luxury, you should pick a different car to modify honestly. The G is a 350z sports car with the bare minimum to make it "luxurious" at the time. Most mods will make the G louder, harsher, and stiffer to bring it back to its roots.
If you're looking for luxury, you should pick a different car to modify honestly. The G is a 350z sports car with the bare minimum to make it "luxurious" at the time. Most mods will make the G louder, harsher, and stiffer to bring it back to its roots.
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PWS (04-01-2019)
#11
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No problem, most members were NOOOBS when they started!
From the beginning, best mod is a 5/16" Motordyne Plenum spacer which corrects Nissan's design error in first gen G35's! I wouldn't bother with changing the pully since you're using the G as your daily driver, slowing down the systems will have negative effects! Headers aren't worth the cost since they only net a few WHP at best! Eliminating the factory cats is a terrible idea unless you're going with an aftermarket exhaust! OEM cats have major restriction, by eliminating them you'll overwhelm the factory exhaust creating major rasp! Simply put, it's like putting 3# of dog **** in a 1# can...get the concept? Install the Plenum spacer (you'll like the extra hp) add a high flow K&N intake filter and spend those extra $$ on maintenance and suspension care!
Enjoy the ride...Gary
Enjoy the ride...Gary
Last edited by gary c; 03-31-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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PWS (04-01-2019)
#12
Thank you Gary !
A 5/16 plenum spacer and the Z-tube, Is on my list for sure.
I get what your saying about eliminating the cats. Cleric, already straightened me out on that one. LOL.
What if I went with ART test pipes and leave the factory exhaust ? Would I get any performance from that, or would I still need to do a full exhaust ?
I posted a clip of a G with ART test pipes and factory muffler, it didn't sound too loud for me. I just don't want to bother with it if I won't see any gains with the factory muffler. But like you said, it's only 10hp if I do see any gains.
Many Thanks !
A 5/16 plenum spacer and the Z-tube, Is on my list for sure.
I get what your saying about eliminating the cats. Cleric, already straightened me out on that one. LOL.
What if I went with ART test pipes and leave the factory exhaust ? Would I get any performance from that, or would I still need to do a full exhaust ?
I posted a clip of a G with ART test pipes and factory muffler, it didn't sound too loud for me. I just don't want to bother with it if I won't see any gains with the factory muffler. But like you said, it's only 10hp if I do see any gains.
Many Thanks !
#13
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
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PWS (04-01-2019)
#14
I guess for me it will just be the plenum spacer, Z-Tube, and high flow air filter.
Pulleys are a bad Idea, because I don't want to risk crank vibration or burn through belts.
Headers are not worth it because I'm not doing full exhaust.
I do like the idea of putting a G37 rear end ? I hear it will pull harder ?
I also would like to look into getting tune from UPREV. But I need to do that after all the mods right.
What are Your thoughts on changing the rear end to a G37?
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PWS (04-01-2019)