2004 G35 coupe 6mt in limp mode after engine swap with 350z vq35de
2004 G35 coupe 6mt in limp mode after engine swap with 350z vq35de
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Last edited by cleric670; Apr 28, 2023 at 11:19 AM.
2004 G35 coupe 6mt in limp mode after engine swap with 350z vq35de
Spoiler
Last edited by cleric670; Apr 28, 2023 at 11:20 AM.
2004 G35 coupe 6mt in limp mode after engine swap with 350z vq35de
Spoiler
Last edited by cleric670; Apr 28, 2023 at 11:21 AM.
G35 in limp mode after engine swap with vq35de from 350z
hey I would love a reply. So I just swapped a 350z motor into my g35 coupe. It was an auto motor going into a manual car. Did the pilot bearing and everything. Swapped power steering pump and alternator bc different connections to harness. Used harness from original g35 motor and g35 ecu. But car is in limp mode. Essentially with a 350z throttle body the car will start but either have zero throttle response or it will act as if its limp mode won’t go above 3k rpm and climbs very slowly. I drove it once before the throttle body ended up stopping giving me response and the car started to get a little bit more responsive the more I drove it but it was on and off. Some points I’d have 5% throttle respond some times I would have 50%. Just throwing numbers off the top my head I didn’t have a throng to actually tell me. I have codes saying my app sensor is going bad and saying it’s sending a different voltage than the throttle body. With a g35 throttle body car will start then die right away as if the motor isn’t getting fuel but it like the throttle body just isn’t opening. Please let me know if I have to flash the ecu or what I’m at a stand still with this car too much money into it. Also don’t have the downstream o2 sensors(ones that go to cats) even installed or plugged in. Because with the swap we couldn’t get my old cats off the old headers so we used test pipes on new motor and the o2 sensors were seized in the cats so I just threw the car together without the 02 sensors. I’ve heard that could be causing this whole problem too. Just need a second opinion before throwing even more money into this car. Replaced throttle body and pedal with parts form junkyard from same year g35 as mine and still nothing please someone help.
Last edited by bigbodyg35; Apr 24, 2023 at 01:35 PM.
p2122 and p2138 both are for app sensor but I know 100% my gas pedal was fine before the swap and I went to the junkyard and got a new pedal and still nothing. Got a new throttle body from the junkyard too. The only thing that is different after the swap is I installed test pipes and I don’t have O2 sensors in them because the sensors were stuck in my cats and I couldn’t get them replaced in time. That’s my next purchase is o2 sensors
Did you have the ECM harness off of the ECM? If so then disconnect the battery, take the harness off and see if you bent a pin. I would double check the throttle body harness also, it's pretty easy to bend a pin over on both those harnesses if you don't insert them carefully.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
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Did you have the ECM harness off of the ECM? If so then disconnect the battery, take the harness off and see if you bent a pin. I would double check the throttle body harness also, it's pretty easy to bend a pin over on both those harnesses if you don't insert them carefully.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
Did you have the ECM harness off of the ECM? If so then disconnect the battery, take the harness off and see if you bent a pin. I would double check the throttle body harness also, it's pretty easy to bend a pin over on both those harnesses if you don't insert them carefully.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
Also, did you install the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper? It's the big ground wire that connects the right/passenger side of the timing chain cover to the chassis directly below the coolant reservoir.
You definitely had the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper removed. Look directly under the coolant reservoir, there should be a heavy gauge wire landed on a 2-hole lug on the chassis. The other end of that wire gets connected to the timing chain cover, if you don't have that hooked up there is no electrical ground path for the engine controls and it will DEFINITELY malfunction.
The ECM connection is that harness you pulled through the firewall under the glove box, disconnect the battery, take that harness apart F102 and make sure none of the pins are bent. It's basically a breakout harness that connects to the F108 ECM harness.
You reused the same engine harness right? They aren't all the same from year to year and even though they will all plug into that breakout harness F102 they might have sensors on different pins. The 2003-2004.5 harnesses are different than the 2004.5-2007 harnesses. And the rev-up harnesses are different from both of those.
The ECM connection is that harness you pulled through the firewall under the glove box, disconnect the battery, take that harness apart F102 and make sure none of the pins are bent. It's basically a breakout harness that connects to the F108 ECM harness.
You reused the same engine harness right? They aren't all the same from year to year and even though they will all plug into that breakout harness F102 they might have sensors on different pins. The 2003-2004.5 harnesses are different than the 2004.5-2007 harnesses. And the rev-up harnesses are different from both of those.
Last edited by cleric670; Apr 29, 2023 at 01:41 PM.
If you didn't keep the existing engine control F102 harness then take the existing one and compare it to the one you installed under the glove box. Just verify that it has wires in all the same pins and that they're all the same COLOR wires on each pin.
You definitely had the primary engine to chassis bonding jumper removed. Look directly under the coolant reservoir, there should be a heavy gauge wire landed on a 2-hole lug on the chassis. The other end of that wire gets connected to the timing chain cover, if you don't have that hooked up there is no electrical ground path for the engine controls and it will DEFINITELY malfunction.
The ECM connection is that harness you pulled through the firewall under the glove box, disconnect the battery, take that harness apart F102 and make sure none of the pins are bent. It's basically a breakout harness that connects to the F108 ECM harness.
You reused the same engine harness right? They aren't all the same from year to year and even though they will all plug into that breakout harness F102 they might have sensors on different pins. The 2003-2004.5 harnesses are different than the 2004.5-2007 harnesses. And the rev-up harnesses are different from both of those.
The ECM connection is that harness you pulled through the firewall under the glove box, disconnect the battery, take that harness apart F102 and make sure none of the pins are bent. It's basically a breakout harness that connects to the F108 ECM harness.
You reused the same engine harness right? They aren't all the same from year to year and even though they will all plug into that breakout harness F102 they might have sensors on different pins. The 2003-2004.5 harnesses are different than the 2004.5-2007 harnesses. And the rev-up harnesses are different from both of those.
Those downstream O2 sensors are all part of the same harness yes. The harness tapes together around the alternator area and also has the upstream O2 sensors on it.
The APP gas pedal splices into the ECM harness between F102 and F108. If you didn't take apart F108 which connects directly to the ECM then you haven't changed any of that wiring. The APP connects to a smaller 10 pin harness F1 which is right next to F102. I don't know why it would have been unplugged because you can access F102 without moving it but you should check it anyways.
There's 3 harnesses of that size right next to one another E10, E11, and E12. It's possible they were unplugged to make more room to feed everything out of the grommet on the firewall.
The APP gas pedal splices into the ECM harness between F102 and F108. If you didn't take apart F108 which connects directly to the ECM then you haven't changed any of that wiring. The APP connects to a smaller 10 pin harness F1 which is right next to F102. I don't know why it would have been unplugged because you can access F102 without moving it but you should check it anyways.
There's 3 harnesses of that size right next to one another E10, E11, and E12. It's possible they were unplugged to make more room to feed everything out of the grommet on the firewall.
Those downstream O2 sensors are all part of the same harness yes. The harness tapes together around the alternator area and also has the upstream O2 sensors on it.
The APP gas pedal splices into the ECM harness between F102 and F108. If you didn't take apart F108 which connects directly to the ECM then you haven't changed any of that wiring. The APP connects to a smaller 10 pin harness F1 which is right next to F102. I don't know why it would have been unplugged because you can access F102 without moving it but you should check it anyways.
There's 3 harnesses of that size right next to one another E10, E11, and E12. It's possible they were unplugged to make more room to feed everything out of the grommet on the firewall.
The APP gas pedal splices into the ECM harness between F102 and F108. If you didn't take apart F108 which connects directly to the ECM then you haven't changed any of that wiring. The APP connects to a smaller 10 pin harness F1 which is right next to F102. I don't know why it would have been unplugged because you can access F102 without moving it but you should check it anyways.
There's 3 harnesses of that size right next to one another E10, E11, and E12. It's possible they were unplugged to make more room to feed everything out of the grommet on the firewall.




