I'm taking my stock G to the track tomorrow to see what times I can run.
I plan on doing simple track prep (adjusting psi, taking out the spare and all that other good stuff) and thats about it.
I know the basics, stay out of the burn out pit with stock tires being one. What's a good RPM to hold her at before launching? 2700 RPM or so? Also, how have you guys been adjusting the psi in your tires before racing?
I'll post up pics sometime over the weekend...unless of course they suck.
I plan on doing simple track prep (adjusting psi, taking out the spare and all that other good stuff) and thats about it.
I know the basics, stay out of the burn out pit with stock tires being one. What's a good RPM to hold her at before launching? 2700 RPM or so? Also, how have you guys been adjusting the psi in your tires before racing?
I'll post up pics sometime over the weekend...unless of course they suck.
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The best thing you can do is reset your ecu and play with it till tomorrow,so it learns your driving style. Do not drive it like granny after the reset. Drop your psi to 25 and you should be ok.
tg
tg
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since ur AT launch as high RPM as u can. Assuming the track is decently preped u should launch at 2700rpm which is the max stall RPM on autos.
How should I adjust the psi in my front tires? 35-37 psi?
Registered User
Quote:
I wouldn't/don't worry about the front tires at all in a drag race.Originally Posted by fecurtis
How should I adjust the psi in my front tires? 35-37 psi?
Really? Wouldn't increasing the psi in the front reduce resistance?
Registered User
Quote:
Theoretically yes, but if u want to go into details like that then it also raises the car's front up which will increase drag so......Originally Posted by fecurtis
Really? Wouldn't increasing the psi in the front reduce resistance?
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fecurtis - I know folks have mentioned "resetting your ecu, " drop your pressure to "25psi", and you "should launch at 2700rpm which is the max stall RPM on autos," but I wouldn't do a damn thing other than make sure your traction button is in the off mode. Do a couple passes in the D-mode, DS-mode, then MS-mode to change it up a bit. Other than that, it's not like you are going to shave a second off your time or anything by doing any one of those suggestions. Not trying to aggitate anyone, but things such as this is left up to some one who has a modded ride; not stock! I peg you may get anywhere from a low of 13.8(?) to a high of 14.2(?). Anything lower is great! Anything higher sucks! You drive a stock car by track standards! Up to you my friend. I am sure those other things could possibly help should you be familiar with those tricks. I assume you are not. But hey, I just 
on the weekends!
on the weekends!
Registered User
Quote:
on the weekends!
Originally Posted by kmuniz78
fecurtis - I know folks have mentioned "resetting your ecu, " drop your pressure to "25psi", and you "should launch at 2700rpm which is the max stall RPM on autos," but I wouldn't do a damn thing other than make sure your traction button is in the off mode. Do a couple passes in the D-mode, DS-mode, then MS-mode to change it up a bit. Other than that, it's not like you are going to shave a second off your time or anything by doing any one of those suggestions. Not trying to aggitate anyone, but things such as this is left up to some one who has a modded ride; not stock! I peg you may get anywhere from a low of 13.8(?) to a high of 14.2(?). Anything lower is great! Anything higher sucks! You drive a stock car by track standards! Up to you my friend. I am sure those other things could possibly help should you be familiar with those tricks. I assume you are not. But hey, I just on the weekends!
Something else to add: Do a quick burnout (spin your tires just a little).
This will clean off any dirt/gravel that might be on your tires. No point in a huge smoky burnout to heat them up if they're street tires.
25psi is a little low. And 2700 rpm powerbrake is just going to spin your tires.
Registered User
...also, pay attention to your "Christmas tree" indicator. You will need to get the timing down of your tracks indicator (e.g. pre-stage, stage, and pass). These will come up fairly fast. On a “Sportsman”, or full, tree (which is most common in amateur racing), the bulbs are lit in .5 second increments. On a “Pro” tree all three amber bulbs light simultaneously followed by the green light .4 second later.
Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
Registered User
Oh yeah, and don't be surprised when you run a high 14 or a 15 your first few times. The launch is key. Spin your tires and you'll run a 15.
Last time I was at the track, I kept seeing stock 350z's running low 15's, high 14's.
The only way you're going to run a high 13/low 14 is with a perfect launch and good track conditions.
Last time I was at the track, I kept seeing stock 350z's running low 15's, high 14's.
The only way you're going to run a high 13/low 14 is with a perfect launch and good track conditions.
Registered User
If it's a really sunny day, use an old blanket or some old dark towels to cover your tires...the direct sunlight on your tires will change your tire pressure so cover your tires up before you run it so they will stay the same PSI you had them...make sure to use a digital TP gauge
Registered User
Quote:
Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
Originally Posted by kmuniz78
...also, pay attention to your "Christmas tree" indicator. You will need to get the timing down of your tracks indicator (e.g. pre-stage, stage, and pass). These will come up fairly fast. On a “Sportsman”, or full, tree (which is most common in amateur racing), the bulbs are lit in .5 second increments. On a “Pro” tree all three amber bulbs light simultaneously followed by the green light .4 second later. Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
For the Christmas tree: when you go (red light or slow reaction time) doesn't change your 1/4 mile time.
It is fun to hole shot the guy next to you and beat a faster car though. And, getting the right r/t will help in bracket racing later on.
Quote:
Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
It's just a test and tune that day. I've been drag racing before in my older car so I'm familar with the set up and stuff. I was just wondering if there were any other pointers people with G's had. My biggest concern was with the RPM at launch.Originally Posted by kmuniz78
...also, pay attention to your "Christmas tree" indicator. You will need to get the timing down of your tracks indicator (e.g. pre-stage, stage, and pass). These will come up fairly fast. On a “Sportsman”, or full, tree (which is most common in amateur racing), the bulbs are lit in .5 second increments. On a “Pro” tree all three amber bulbs light simultaneously followed by the green light .4 second later. Green light of course signifies the start of the race.
Red light signifies a foul start. It means that the vehicle left the “Stage” beam before the green light was lit.
Also, double check what type of race the track is doing that day, (e.g. test-n-tune, heads-up, and bracket-race are you most common).
Lastly, don't get discouraged if a 10 sec. car pulls up next to you. this will depend on what type of event your track is holding that day! Enjoy! Be Safe!
I do plan on doing some runs in D, DS, and full manual modes. I've never been to this particular track before so I'm not sure how crowded it gets. I hope to get enough runs in to test out all modes. I figured I'd run 2 runs in each mode.
When I used to drag race, I was always pretty consistent with reaction times...although they never matter since the timer doesn't start until the car actually starts moving.
Conditions tomorrow night are clear, no rain (no rain during the day either), and its never windy around here unless theres a storm coming. Too bad there aren't many empty roads around here. I'd like to practice some quick launches but lord knows spinning tires on public streets is a no-no.