Off to the track tomorrow...any helpful hints?
#16
07-31-2008, 03:31 PM
...don't take our word for it, you are the one driving it! See what the experts say about tire pressure, etc:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=73
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tirete....jsp?techid=73
#17
07-31-2008, 03:34 PM
Agree if you are running a test-n-tune night. Don't agree if you are heads -up of course. That's how my buddy in a G37 took me; jumped the light and only won by a few tenths of a second, if that! But yes, you are correct that it doesn't effect your 1/4 time in a test-n-tune. $hit, you can sit at the light for 10 seconds, then decide to go; can still get in the low 14+/-.
Originally Posted by silverG2007
For the Christmas tree: when you go (red light or slow reaction time) doesn't change your 1/4 mile time.
It is fun to hole shot the guy next to you and beat a faster car though. And, getting the right r/t will help in bracket racing later on.
It is fun to hole shot the guy next to you and beat a faster car though. And, getting the right r/t will help in bracket racing later on.
#18
07-31-2008, 03:37 PM
Originally Posted by fecurtis
It's just a test and tune that day. I've been drag racing before in my older car so I'm familar with the set up and stuff. I was just wondering if there were any other pointers people with G's had. My biggest concern was with the RPM at launch.
I do plan on doing some runs in D, DS, and full manual modes. I've never been to this particular track before so I'm not sure how crowded it gets. I hope to get enough runs in to test out all modes. I figured I'd run 2 runs in each mode.
When I used to drag race, I was always pretty consistent with reaction times...although they never matter since the timer doesn't start until the car actually starts moving.
I do plan on doing some runs in D, DS, and full manual modes. I've never been to this particular track before so I'm not sure how crowded it gets. I hope to get enough runs in to test out all modes. I figured I'd run 2 runs in each mode.
When I used to drag race, I was always pretty consistent with reaction times...although they never matter since the timer doesn't start until the car actually starts moving.
#20
07-31-2008, 08:58 PM
Originally Posted by kmuniz78
fecurtis - I know folks have mentioned "resetting your ecu, " drop your pressure to "25psi", and you "should launch at 2700rpm which is the max stall RPM on autos," but I wouldn't do a damn thing other than make sure your traction button is in the off mode. Do a couple passes in the D-mode, DS-mode, then MS-mode to change it up a bit. Other than that, it's not like you are going to shave a second off your time or anything by doing any one of those suggestions. Not trying to aggitate anyone, but things such as this is left up to some one who has a modded ride; not stock! I peg you may get anywhere from a low of 13.8(?) to a high of 14.2(?). Anything lower is great! Anything higher sucks! You drive a stock car by track standards!
), but launching at 2,700 could make a noticeable diff in time. vs. sitting at idle. Unless, of course, it invokes wheelspin... And your bracket on times is a little tight? Pretty sure the G runs 13.8 - 13.9s, right? So if the OP hits that at his first time at the track with it, wooo-hooo! If he runs a 14.5 on his first run, so what? It's all practice and learning.
#21
07-31-2008, 09:14 PM
#22
07-31-2008, 11:57 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 1,460
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#23
08-01-2008, 06:42 PM
Originally Posted by tg1234
ecu reset helps only if you drive your car on daily basis like granny. Remember the thread when some of you were complaining the loan car is faster on probably 87 gas then some of yours.
tg
tg
Also, for the record, 87 octane is more combustible than 93. So if the computer isn't pulling timing at part throttle, it is possible the car would feel faster at part throttle with 87 octane. At full throttle, the computer would definitely pull timing and slow you down though.
#24
08-01-2008, 11:39 PM
I dunno. I gave my G for a week to my wife. I needed her car for more cargo. She did not go over 2500 rpm. I've got the car back and I floored it and it was slow. I reset the ECU and it was back to the way I had it. Was shifting slower too when I've got the car back from her. Can you explain why if that was not the ECU? Her mpg was 7 better in city then mine usually with mixed driving.
tg
tg
#25
08-02-2008, 12:14 AM
Originally Posted by tg1234
I dunno. I gave my G for a week to my wife. I needed her car for more cargo. She did not go over 2500 rpm. I've got the car back and I floored it and it was slow. I reset the ECU and it was back to the way I had it. Was shifting slower too when I've got the car back from her. Can you explain why if that was not the ECU? Her mpg was 7 better in city then mine usually with mixed driving.
tg
tg
#27
08-02-2008, 01:03 AM
Originally Posted by tg1234
I dunno. I gave my G for a week to my wife. I needed her car for more cargo. She did not go over 2500 rpm. I've got the car back and I floored it and it was slow. I reset the ECU and it was back to the way I had it. Was shifting slower too when I've got the car back from her. Can you explain why if that was not the ECU? Her mpg was 7 better in city then mine usually with mixed driving.
tg
tg
Oh and tell the wife to live a little!
#28
08-02-2008, 01:13 AM
OK, I think this is a little late but I just saw the thread. My 5AT was a joy to drag race and very consistent with a little learning on my part.
Launch wise I had a weird system but it worked. Pull up and stage (as shallow as possible!) with left foot on brake and right foot on gas. When the last yellow comes up push the gas a little (don't watch the tach really closely because you are only doing this for a moment). When the green comes up foot off the brake and floor the gas.
All of that assumes the car is in "manual" mode as well as having the VDC off.
There is a lot of bad advice in this thread and honestly, I hope none of those giving it reap the spoils of that bad advice with their own cars. There is also some good advice. Make sure you check out the drag section as well as there is some VERY good information there regarding drag racing and many of the things mentioned here that have nothing to do with WHICH car you take to the track.
Launch wise I had a weird system but it worked. Pull up and stage (as shallow as possible!) with left foot on brake and right foot on gas. When the last yellow comes up push the gas a little (don't watch the tach really closely because you are only doing this for a moment). When the green comes up foot off the brake and floor the gas.
All of that assumes the car is in "manual" mode as well as having the VDC off.
There is a lot of bad advice in this thread and honestly, I hope none of those giving it reap the spoils of that bad advice with their own cars. There is also some good advice. Make sure you check out the drag section as well as there is some VERY good information there regarding drag racing and many of the things mentioned here that have nothing to do with WHICH car you take to the track.
#29
08-02-2008, 01:15 AM
#30
08-02-2008, 12:46 PM
Originally Posted by tg1234
I dunno. I gave my G for a week to my wife. I needed her car for more cargo. She did not go over 2500 rpm. I've got the car back and I floored it and it was slow. I reset the ECU and it was back to the way I had it. Was shifting slower too when I've got the car back from her. Can you explain why if that was not the ECU? Her mpg was 7 better in city then mine usually with mixed driving.
tg
tg
Changes in fuel trims can help with throttle response, etc. But I seriously doubt they'll affect a dyno or 1/4 mile time.
I'd like to see someone prove otherwise though. Drive like a grandma, dyno car. Reset ECU, drive fast.... dyno car. Post results.
As long as the G35 computer works like every other computer controlled car.....Full throttle runs are based on an air/fuel ratio set by tables and timing.... set by tables.
There's nothing that a "learning" ecu would change.