Powdercoat???
#16
#18
if you want a polished lip, you'll probably have to paint not PC... I don’t know anyone that will/can PC and leave the lip polished... they can't mask off like painting... you can try to PC then have it polished, but I don't know how well the PC edge will hold up then.
That is one drawback to PC - you need to plan on PCing the entire piece... for two colors or polished, painting is a better option.
That is one drawback to PC - you need to plan on PCing the entire piece... for two colors or polished, painting is a better option.
#20
Originally Posted by G35papa
^Unless you have a 2 or 3 piece rim where the centers can be removed. But yeah, most will need to do the entire rim.
Unless there is a process I've never heard of.
#22
#24
Originally Posted by G35papa
^No, you got it right.
Also, center caps (which most are plastic) cannot be PC as well unless they are metal. I winded up just spray painting mine after I got the rims coated.
UpandComing, did you decide on what color you're doing the calipers yet?
Also, center caps (which most are plastic) cannot be PC as well unless they are metal. I winded up just spray painting mine after I got the rims coated.
UpandComing, did you decide on what color you're doing the calipers yet?
Anyone looking to powder coat wheels, consider the center cap when choosing color.
#25
Registered User
iTrader: (85)
Originally Posted by OCG35
yep me too... spraying the center cap was a PITA! First, I couldn’t match color exactly... and second, I have black chromed logo that was a b!tch to mask off!
Anyone looking to powder coat wheels, consider the center cap when choosing color.
Anyone looking to powder coat wheels, consider the center cap when choosing color.
#27
Originally Posted by G35papa
Spray the whole cap, wait like 4 hours then scrap the paint off of the Mt. Fuji logo with your fingernail (if you wanted to keep the chrome/black chrome). The paint won't completely stick to the chrome eblem unless you sanded it and primered it first.
they turned out good the way I did it, but are phucked up now (from other ****), need to be redone... I think I'm gonna paint the emblems this time… getting gunmetal Volks one of these days so these wheels don’t matter…
Edit: wait, I just thought of something… your suggestion won't work because adhesion promoted must be sprayed anyway in order for the paint the flush part of cap… so you would need to mask off the emblem anyway.
Last edited by OCG35; 12-26-2007 at 07:20 PM.
#28
#29
You’ll never be able to get the trifling edges of the emblem without getting the cap...
The best way to paint them IMO is to mask off the emblem, prep the portion to be painted, spray with good adhesion promoter (Bulldog preferable, even though I didn’t), the spray with color.
BTW, the center logo comes off the flat part of the cap - all you need to do is cut 3M 2 sided tape the same shape and stick it back on after paint cures... it's the middle part of the logo that is a b!tch, that part is molded to the logo... you need to paint the center of the logo the same color as the flat part of the cap. So masking the logo is really the only way to do it right.
By all means, try the q-tip thing... but I guarantee it won’t turn out well.
The best way to paint them IMO is to mask off the emblem, prep the portion to be painted, spray with good adhesion promoter (Bulldog preferable, even though I didn’t), the spray with color.
BTW, the center logo comes off the flat part of the cap - all you need to do is cut 3M 2 sided tape the same shape and stick it back on after paint cures... it's the middle part of the logo that is a b!tch, that part is molded to the logo... you need to paint the center of the logo the same color as the flat part of the cap. So masking the logo is really the only way to do it right.
By all means, try the q-tip thing... but I guarantee it won’t turn out well.