you tube it.

Stillen Gen 2 is louder.

Look here

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...mpilation.html

Thanks man. Check out my garage for the latest mods, car looks different now.

03 Doggy door 5at with 103k

Just goin top to bottom; AEM CAI,5/8'' spacer, stainless headers, custom 2 1/4'' true dual exhaust, underdrive crank pulley, throttle body coolant mod, full revised Z suspension, 18'' stock Z rims, stillen adjustable sways, basic ground wire kit, drilled + slotted rotors, hawk pads, painted calipers and a few other cosmetic things. I had my mind set on getting the uprev osiris tune but can't because the car was built in 8/02. Also I have been looking into swapping my rear diff for one from an MT with the vlsd and 3.5 final drive. Just wondering if I can really do anything else other than a turbo/supercharger. Thanks.

https://g35driver.com/forums/members...ture9492-a.jpg

You are going to see the next best gain from the gearing upgrade. If you are not going to boost it, and don't do a ton of freeway driving, I would consider a 3.7 or 3.9 upgrade over the 3.5.

I was thinking about doing that and the only thing stopping me is the money. I'm a 19 year old college student and from what I have seen on this site it looks like a could get the 3.5 shipped for around $350-400 and installed for another $200 but anything bigger looks more around the $750-1K range and i'm not sure but would i need an aftermarket LSD to go with a 3.7 or a 3.9. so basically what i am asking is do you think the 3.7 or 3.9 would be significantly quicker than the 3.5 and worth the extra money required to make it all work.

acelleration will be significantly better with the 3.7 over the 3.5, and then again with the 3.9 over the 3.7.

Fuel milage will drop and so will top speed, but just how many times are you ever going to take the car to 140mph, realistically?

You don't have to get an aftermarket LSD with the gears but depending on how far you want to go with the car it might be a good idea while you're in there.

I went from a oem 3.5 down to 3.3 to help with traction and save me from having to shift into 5th in the 1/4 mile. I found a ~700rpm drop in 6th gear at 70mph. Given the power of my car before and after the mod I can't say how much the mild change from 3.3 to 3.5 would provide but IMO you are better off just waiting and doing it right the first time.

*Again this is if you don't plan to boost your car down the line. If you do, go with the 3.5 or even keep the 3.3*

the 3.7 nor the 3.9 ever came OEM with a VLSD?

Nope, those are aftermarket setups.

That's discouraging. Hmmmm......

What to do what to do. 3.5 with a VLSD, or an "empty" 3.9 until I can go with a true LSD...decisions decisions.

Okay couple more questions, I have checked out a few aftermarket final drive gears and first of all whats the consensus on the 4.08 final drive from the titan and what kind of labor charges would i be looking at if i bought just the final drive gears and a separate LSD i;m assuming it has to be much more time consuming than just swapping out my 3.3 for an already assembled 3.5. I would like to get the most out of what I have but if it will cost 2k top to bottom to get the larger gears put in right I feel like i should stop messin around and just go FI.

From what I remember, with the 5at, it's not recommended to go any higher than 3.9 FD gears, because of the transmission's gearing.

Hopefully someone with more knowledge on the subject will chime in here.

I think for $2k you could get a good LSD and the 3.9 gears installed.

okay thanks for all the help guys.

Fi ftw =)

Back again, any suggestions on which aftermarket final drive gears would work for my car. Most of the ones i have been able to find say they only work for manual transmissions.

Talk to Z1 Motorsports, they know their stuff when it comes to this topic.

Hey quick question-

I have an 03 sedan w/ stock 17" wheels and tires. If I was to get 19" coupe wheels or M35 wheels (or any after market wheels for that matter), would I need a drop (either with coilovers or just springs)? Would the car look funny with out being dropped?

And would I need a camber kit to adjust the wheel degree? I'm assuming the tires will be at least 8 inches wide and possibly up to 10 inches.

I'm wondering because if this is the case, the investment would be significantly more and I'd have to wait so that I could get them at the same time. Thanks.

^^You are going to need to roll your fenders unless you dont mind the rubbing.

Hi all. I've had my '05 sedan 5AT for about 6 months now. I've been reading on here for quite a while about various mods, because now that I've got a car with some power I'm addicted and need MORE :JAMIN:

First thing I did was get the windows tinted (20% all around). That one was a given and doesn't really count as a mod, I guess. It does look slick with the dark blue paint though. After that I continued to do some reading.

I got in on SxExCx's group buy for the grounding kit. Blue, of course. Today, FedEx tried to deliver my MD 5/16" spacer and clear corners but I couldn't get to the door fast enough. I think the dog scared the driver away :rolleyes: I've got a K&N in the car already, still looking for a z-tube. Also still looking for an HR y-pipe and a revup airbox. The airbox especially, since the place that changed my oil last broke the mount for the line off the back :mad: Warranty won't cover it since they broke it, and they deny they did it so they won't pay for it. ****ers.

There is a track not far from my house that I would like to go to at some point (www.carolinamotorsportspark.com). With this in mind, I think I need some sway bars. I can't really do anything to the suspension that will lower the car because of the way my driveway is sloped. I have to hit it at a very precise angle to keep from scraping the bottom of the car. I'm not sure exactly what I'm scraping as I don't have a way to lift the car yet. Waiting for the jack/stands to go on sale as I am poor.

I really like the looks of the MD VQ exhaust, but I just don't have that kind of money to throw around at the moment. Anything I get has to be the same or lower profile than the OEM exhaust for the reason mentioned above...that will take a little more research. I want a good deep sound, but I don't want it to be loud. This is my everyday driver, too loud and it will just annoy me.

At some point after the warranty is up and the car is completely paid for, I want to do some sort of FI. That's years down the road though and not really a consideration at this point. Basically here is a list of things that I want to do in the fairly near future:

Sway bars
Intake/exhaust as mentioned above
LEDs inside and out
Tinted overlays
Tune (Osiris?)

Any input on what order I should do these in? Obviously the tune should be after the intake/exhaust mods are done.

Things I don't like about the car:
Wood trim. HATE it. Unfortunately this was the only G available within 100 miles of me for less than $20k and I had to grab it because my Civic died in the bank parking lot while I was getting approved for the loan.
Garage door opener. Read the manual plenty of times, can't get it to work.
AM antenna. Not very good. Can hardly pick up a local station that I listen to all the time.
Amber interior lights. Oh, how I despise them. Eventually I'll swap them out for blue, but I just don't have that kind of time on my hands currently.

Can't wait to get the spacer installed this weekend :icon38:

Im pretty much in the same boat as you. If i hadn't lost my job I would have had my full exhaust done (HR Y pipes, magnaflow resenator, hks sport muffler). But i do have an intake, MD spacer, clear corners, tints, and all my lights are switched over to LEDs.. even my trunk and both glove boxes.. I dont recommand blue dome lights.. my Dome and corner lights are white. heres some pics.
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1493.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1494.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1495.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1501.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1510.jpghttp://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1522.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...x/IMG_1525.jpg
http://i550.photobucket.com/albums/i...0113091803.jpg

Quick question, the Cobb tuning device that does not work with the early sedans is this because they do not have the OBDII connection or because the ECU will just not accept the changes? thanks.

To Liquid Tensin

For the exhaust i think you should get an HkS muffler with the coupe midpipe, its an amazing sound in my opinion. The coupe midpipe will make it drone just a bit, its nothing crazy. If you dont like the drone just put a 05-06 sedan midpipe in place of it. Ders a coupe midpipe and a sedan midpipe for sale rite now at the moment. I have the coupe midpipe and hks muffler and omg ive gotten so many compliments, i personally like the drone because ppl know i have an exhaust and its not loud at all. At highway speeds you cant even hear it. I got the setup for 350 total, everything was used but in great condition.

Here's the mods I did so far....



Drivetrain

-Powerlab 3/8 Plenum Spacer
-AEM cold air intake

Interior

-LEDS on all lights

Exterior

-20% Tint all around
-Philips 8000k HID on both driving lights and fog lights
-JDM style clear side markers w/white light
-Crome side door pillars

Electronics

-Ipod Adapter
-Navigation Bypass Module

Coming Soon:

-T-teins H-tech springs
-Borla catback exhaust system

Coming in the distant future:

-Any kind of headers
-Any kind of HFCs
-Any kind of test pipes

My mods so far:
Performance: dc headers, kinetix hfc, stillen gen 2, md 5/16 spacer, stillen engine damper, crank pulley, grounding wires (only for ecu and tranny), iso thermal gasket, coolant bypass mod, design chaos tb spacer, jwt popcharger with z tube, 3.5 gears with VLSD, Osiris.

Suspension- z tanabe nf210 springs, z revised shocks, rear spl endlinks, eibach sway bars, gt spec front tie bar. getting hks ls hipermax coilovers in a couple weeks.

Aesthetics- 50% windshield tint, 35% f&R, bump style clear corners, white dome leds, kurookie front bumper, rhd battery cover, debadge, emblemless grille.
Coming soon: rookie sideskirts, molded trunk spoiler with shaved trunk, nismo rear lip.

Tires/Rims- rpm 505, 275's in the back, 245's front. one flush sedan

Couple things...

Regarding order of mods, everybody's got their own ideas, but for me it's handling/supension, then brakes, then power mods. I think it is unwise to work on going faster before working on stopping and handling.

Since you don't want to lower your car big sways will help. I got the Hotchkis adjustable bars. They work for me, stiffest setting in the front, softest setting in the rear. Set stiffer than the softest setting in the rear and the car will be prone to sharp oversteer in corners. Extra pressure in the rear tires can also help compensate for this. If you stagger your tires it'll help with that too, personally I prefer same size front and rear, that way I can rotate front to rear. I was running 245/45/18, on 8" +30 coupe wheels. Now I have 255/45/18s. With stock shocks your results may be different from mine, but I have my front shocks stiffer than the rears and still had trouble getting the car balanced. With stock shocks the problem is likely in my opinion to be somewhat worse.

(If you do lower the car you need to replace the shocks with stiffer ones or the rear will bounce unacceptably over humps or dips. Springs only doesn't work, I tried it. I put in Tokico D Specs they're great. You then have to put in camber adjustable front upper arms and rear lower arms to get the camber right when aligning.)

Taking your car to CMP is hard on your car. The max speed on that track is only about 100-105mph but at the end of that main straight it's hard down to 40mph for a very sharp left hand bend. The is murder on your brakes. The '04 sedan's brakes are insufficient for the job, I know because I have an '04 and I destroyed my front rotors within a 40 minute session there. I think the '05s might be the same, or they might have upgraded to a two piston floating caliper, which is slightly better but probably still not good enough for that track. Now I did have drilled rotors which are generally a no-no for the track. I swapped in new high grade blank rotors at the track after the first session and did ok for the rest of the day but heat was still a problem.

You must replace your brake fluid before going on the track If you do not replace your fluid, it will boil. Your pedal will then go to the floor and you may well go off. I saw this happen to someone who showed up with an unprepared G35 coupe who decided to go out anyway.

High performance pads are needed or the pads will overheat and fade badly. That's when you start pushing really hard on the pedal to try to get them to work and the heat really starts to build up. I was using Hawk HPS and needed a higher temperature pad in front. If you take your car out with the stock brakes (rotors/calipers) I'd go with Hawk HP10's in front and Hawk HPS in the rear, or similarly spec'ed pads.

Keep your sessions down to 20 minutes and give the brakes time to cool down. Do not stop driving until they are cooled.

I have upgraded to Brembos in the front and find my car's braking entirely acceptable now. I will not take my car to CMP again, I'm looking forward to VIR though.

I have heard that many Z's and G's go through a set of rear pads in a single track event. I have not had this problem. I believe this is because I have disabled the Yaw Sensor in the VDC system preventing VDC from over using the rear brakes in a somewhat misguided attempt to reduce inside wheel spin.

Plan on emptying your wallet to participate in track days. You need a recently certified racing helmet, club track car inspection, the cost of the track day itself, a tank or two of gas, a pile of brake parts and you'll burn a fair whack of tire. If you throw in a motel and a bit of travel it can cost a grand.

No you do not have to drop when putting on bigger wheels. No you don't have to adjust camber with new wheels.

When you drop with springs you need better shocks. Whether you drop using springs or coilovers you have to get adjustable camber arms front and rear. Stock there is no camber adjustment. While I have read about 10" wheels on our sedans I can't see how, I have 18" +30 Coupe wheels and the offset puts the wheels as far outboard as I can imagine (certainly lowered) I have rolled my fenders to accommodate. I've measured how much wider would fit and I can see 9 1/2 in the rear with 275 tires. Other folks may disagree and I do not have experience with anything bigger than the 8" +30's I have.

I looked at M35/M45 wheels a while back and I think the offsets are all wrong.

I've got AAM metallic substrate HFCs. They add some rasp and make the exhaust quite a lot louder under open throttle, not bad as long as you keep it low. They should be fine for emmissions, however, one of mine has lost efficiency and needs replacement. I think it may have been messed up by a stuck injector problem I had 6 months ago. Using anti-foulers fooled the ecu for long enough to get past the "not ready for testing" mode and get me through inspection but I'll have to replace it sooner or later.

HFCs DO boost power, although once you make intake and exhaust changes, a tune is really required to get the most out of the setup. Improved flow with no change to the tune leads to sub-optimally lean conditions I believe.

Power mods, what next???
 

When I went for power, first I installed a lightweight flywheel, which frees up torque. I liked it!

I did the plenum spacer and was impressed with the additional power, then I did a Z-tube and drop in filter, that made it sound cool but not much power gain, then I did the cats and got more power, added a coupe mid-pipe, made it louder and added some drone and no noticeable power, then I did the Osirus tune and got more power.

Not counting FI/NOx or lower final gearing/better LSD, does anyone have an idea how to get more go-go? I seem to have run out of worthwhile power mods without building the motor. The only other next power mod ideas I have are cams, maybe headers, maybe an HKS back box or cat back system. I don't expect the HKS will make much more power. I've read headers aren't worth it, but I've also been told that cams and headers together can make +20-30hp. That would be fun.:JAMIN: It's kind of a lot of money but 20-30hp I might pay for. I don't like the idea of spending anything over a couple hundred bucks on power mods that won't yield a big power gain.

I'm not ready to go FI, the way I drive my car I think I'm better off NA, don't want to spend the big money or deal with reliability issues. If I track it heat would no doubt be destructive plus on the track I've had my sedan suffer fueling problems on hard corners, would need a surge tank or a turbo could lean out... the whole idea scares me on my daily driver.:icon11:

Next good move if you are not going to boost would be gears.

Yeah I keep thinking that may be the best next thing to do. The stock VLSD isn't great so I'm thinking of a better LSD when doing the gears.

What LSD do you run TTrank? I've read the article here http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Limit..._Differentials

I am torn between whether a Quaife might be better for me or a clutch type. I'm inclined to think that a 2-way clutch type at 80% would be best for me but not having driven cars with either I have a hard time knowing. Since I do track occasionally and lifting a wheel is certainly not impossible (even on street) I'm concerned that the zero torque potential of a Quaife makes the design risky to run, but are my fears overblown? The dynamic biasing sounds like a good thing and the low maintenance is a plus.

For overall fun and trackability my instinct is to go clutch type. That article referenced claiming ATS is best with its carbon discs. Comments?

reading all of this makes me so jealous, money has just been way to tight for me to mod but Im bout to have spare money to do cheap stuff which brings me to my question, if I paint my front grille black will it have to be painted every half year or so? since its chrome I figured the paint would have a hard time sticking.

Ive got an 04.5 5AT s3dan-Mods include:Stillen Intake & Z Tube,Obx TB Spacer,MD 5/16 IsoThermal Spacer,UR Crank Pulley,Stillen Gen 2,Gutted Cats(14.00 @ 99.98, 2.18 60ft on these mods only) DC Ceramic Headers,Stillen Ground Wires,Hawk Ceramics,D/S Rotors,G-Stop Brake lines....Love my car love to drive it every day its loud as hell and sounds awsome..new track times commin soon with some better tires nitto 555's FTL!

What's up guys!!! Just came back to the G35driver forums after many years. Still have the 03 Sedan. Checking out the new mods for this car. Any suggestions on new tech?

Has anyone successfully put 4 front coupe 19's on their sedan to offset the rear bulge/rubbing when staggered? Also would give you tire rotation ability. Only thing I was able find via search was a guy putting 4 Z fronts on his maxima.

You can put coupe front and rear 19's on your car. I have a set for spare wheels. Depending on your drop and camber you may rub with the rears and require a mild rolling. If you do fronts all around there will be no issue.

What's a short ram intake guys? Is it better than the motordyne 5/16" spacers?

Whats the pros and cons between the two?

I finally got 4 coupe rears 19" that i'll wrap in 245/40. I hope no to have to roll the rear fender.

Suspension and exhaust: Straight answer needed/wanted...
 

I know these subjects are covered extensively and I've been searching/reading these forums for 2 days. I have a specific desire and thought maybe I could get some help from the community on my particular needs.

Exhaust...
My desire here is to gain a little sound over stock. I'm not worried about power and all that. Just looking for a little more exhaust note without breaking the bank and gutting the entire exhaust system. Most of the setups I've researched here are pretty aggressive, so how about it? Maybe the HKS muffler only??? It retains the dual outlet stock look and I like the sound of most of the clips although many of them have a midpipe of some sort as well. Any ideas or experiences would be very helpful!

Suspension...
Same goes here, nothing real aggressive so far as drop and such. Currently the suspension feels a little mushy, especially in the back (only 53k miles). I've read that the 350Z enhanced springs (04-above ?) give a little drop (1/2 inch ?) but stiffen it up just right. If I can find a set of Z springs, which shocks/struts should I match them up with??? Keep in mind I'm not looking for crazy expensive, but I'm willing to pony up if the result is the desired one.

I love this car... I've had many including a CTS, 3 Series, and others, but this by far is my favorite! :bowdown:

the HKS rear section is an affordable way to spice up the exhaust note. often you'll find slightly used ones for sharp prices. i paid $300CDN last year. i love the muffler, it sounds great and looks nice when it's clean. when paired with the coupe midpipe it sounds even better, although your '06 midpipe is similar to the coupe so i wouldn't change that if i was you.

Z springs are another popular, affordable suspension mod. go for a revised set of shocks & springs. these are also available used for good prices. i paid $100CDN last year, PLUS ~$80 for a 4 wheel alignment a couple weeks after the install. i love the stance and improved handling. the ride is slightly more firm, but most noticeable is the reduced body roll. the drop is between 3/4" - 1".

both of these mods are simple do-it-yourselfers. the muffler took ~45mins from start to finish, and the suspension swap took ~4hrs working slowly.

Thanks. I think I'm sold on the HKS, but if I couple that with say a coupe midpipe would that be louder than I'm looking for? The weight savings of the coupe midpipe is appealing also.

I think the 350Z springs and shocks are the way to go. Any leads on where I could find a set?

don't bother changing the midpipe. yours is much smaller than the one on 03/04 sedans so you won't notice much change from the coupe middy. many folks actually prefer the 05/06 sedan middy paired with the HKS, so you should be set with just the rear section.

i'd try the marketplace, and your local craigslist for starters.

I would go ahead and get the cpe mid pipe if you can find one in the marketplace or ur local craigslist. I have an 05 and there was a difference in the sedan resonator and the cpe resonator. I don't think this setup would be too loud.

g35, 350z marketplace and craigslist would be your best bet on the z suspension.

I think I'm set on the HKS muffler only. Looks tight and from listening to all the clips it sounds great!

I'm thinking that I'd like to go with the G/Z combo on the springs if I can. Which shocks would I match up with that setup? Or maybe the .5" drop of the coupe springs all the way around. Which shocks then? Rather than buy used coupe or 350Z shocks are there aftermarket comparibles that are reasonably priced?

I like this alot, but I wonder if it's JUST the coupe midpipe??? This seems like it would be a cheap way to increase sound slightly...

I like this one too and wonder if it's JUST the HKS muffler???

I have an HKS rear section on my 05 sedan and love it. It sounds great without much drone at highway speeds. I find myself turning my stereo off and rolling down the window in 100+ degree weather just to hear the exhaust. I also have 07 z springs paired with Tokico HP (blues) for a 350z. I bought these shocks because the cost/time of installing the springs does not change much if you do shock also. Why put used shocks on your car only to have to replace them 6 months to a year later? The blues run about $250 FOR ALL 4 SHOCKS. The ride is a little stiff, but that is what I wanted. If you are afraid of a stiff ride then don't lower your car because they pretty much come hand in hand. BTW the z springs lower a sedan about 1 inch.

Money aside, would you guys go for the HKS or the Stillen Gen2 for nice sound? I also like the idea of all stainless, less problems later on..

Hks!!!!!

Stillen shouldn't even be mentioned in an exhaust thread about gaining a "little bit" of sound. From what I hear/read, both versions drone to the point of some taking it off. Some like it and enjoy the sound too. But the increase in sound is signficant. I'll go ahead and put the Borla system in there too. I should know, I run one and added the Magnaflow resonated X pipe to combat the drone.