So my car is finally out of warranty, bought her new as a 2005x and love her eversince. I asked the dealer for the extended warranty options and there are a few. The lowest is 1year 12,000mile additional warranty for 900$. it only gets higher from there.
Should i get extended warranty? or should i got unprotected?

HOw many of you guys are not protected? What should i do?

 

How well do you know your car? Has it been reliable or have you had some issues with it? How long do you plan on keeping it?

 

i plan to keep it for a long time.

 

Get it, compression rod alone is $300CDN without labor and it's a PITA to change.

 

I didnt go for it. Still have my powertrain, so thats all i need for now.

 

I'd get it, but I like the peace of mind that comes with mine. If I never use it it will have been worth the money (39 months and 52K miles remaining). BTW, shop around for better pricing. You can buy it from any dealer.

 

it all depends on your skill as a DIY.

obvious you dont expect the car to be perfectly fine. The average car today does have least one problem a year, either minor or major.

I bought my 2005x when it had about 1.5 months of bumper 2 bumper warranty due to time not miles. In the 1.5 i got the door rattle and rear seat rattle. I didn't opt to go with the extended warranty offered to me. it would of been 3 years-up to 100k for about 2000-3000$ that breaks down to 1000$ a year.

I'm willing to gamble that, if the car doesn't break in one year i'll profit, if it does and its something 800, i still profit $200. This averaged out to the next 3 year its a 50/50 gamble. Our cars hardly have MAJOR issues, mostly minor issues, if you read this board its more about what wheels we can fit or what mods to do. Rather then what to fix, which is a GREAT thing. Radio's go out often on these, when it does $1000 will get me a new DD radio with DVD player. Struts/shock blows and i'll get coilovers. Headlight bulb burns out i'll get 5k or 6k HID. If you handy then i dont think you need it. If you strongly believe the car is solid. Dealers offer rim/tire warranty but who the hell cares, blow a tire and its $100. Bend a rim and find a OE rim on this board for $100-200 or buy some aftermarket market or other set of OE rimes like 19's ray for $1000.

I declined any warranty on the car mainly due to the fact that i plan on modding the car, the cost might be the same as buying aftermarket mods as the price of warranty. Its a good gamble on the dealership, warranty will cover some and you still have to go to them for maintence. IE 30,60, 90k. they get business on that. I can turn a wrench and quite decent at it. So if a problem does happen i'm only out parts.

 

All very good points, and a good reason not to get one. My situation was a little different because going Elite only cost me $600, which not only gave me another year on my CPO, but also covered Audio and gave me roadside and all that for almost 4 years.

I just wanted to point out that you're not required to go to the dealer for any scheduled maintenance. As long as you can either show them it was done by someone else or the receipts that show you did it, you're good to go.

 

[/QUOTE]Well said Turlte. I second that

 

I recently got my warranty from Courtney at Infinity of Scottsdate and got a such a great deal that I extended from 20k to 100k miles. I'm also very good at doing my own maintanance and repairs, but she gave me such a good deal that it would definately cover be worth it for these 80k miles.

 

I recently got mine from them as well. Decent price.

But I am now enjoying a discussion with Crest Infiniti over whether a fluid leak into the driver footwell is a warranty issue (honestly) and whether Infiniti will perform the rattling rear windows TSB fix under warranty.

Watch this space.

 

Having worked at a dealership and being the tech on the other end of this. i would agree that you dont have to go with the dealership with service. However many people do with them and thats how the cash in. In the end its not infiniti who takes the claims or denies it, its the dealership. if you did you 30,60,90k with our dealership you almost bet your butt they will cover everything even if its not covered under the warranty.

You got a great deal for $600, i would of done the same as well. The only thing on my car that worries me is the transfer case and the OEM navi unit. They are no cheap in parts and they are the only things that can really burn me.

I do everything myself and can only provide receipts of parts i buy and even if i do have those receipts, i buy in bulk when there is a sale, so i can somewhat see where my stuff is invalid.

I right now have 3 qts of mobil1 75w90 diff fluids, 8 qts of Matic-J, 2 air filters and OEM plugs in the garage right now.. they are just extra's

 

I concur with Mustang5L5, it mostly depends on how reliable the car has been to this point.
But what I think the OP is asking is what kind of problems "could" arise between 60-100k.

I bought my car at 54k, and got the dealership to through in the CPO warranty for free. But mostly b/c I just bought the car. Had I owned since the beginning, and there were not any significant problems, then I would probably not get the extended warranty.

But, as BuckeyeinMI said, you're paying for a peace of mind, which some people (including myself, tend to place a hefty price tag on).

Here's what I suggest, if you are concerned about it, go ahead and get it. If not, take the same money that you would have paid to get the extended warranty, and place it in a CD or money market account just in case. That way, if something does happen, you'll have some money set aside to cover the repairs. That will give you some peace of mind without costing you a dime.

either way, you'll have something to fall back on.

 

Bout the DUMBEST thing i heard. if you put that money in a CD and then pull it out when your car breaks down you will have less money then what you started with because a car breaks randomly not when your CD matures. a savings would be an option but never a CD. its just not smart money.

 

I wouldn't call it the dumbest thing, as there are other options out there. Well, it's true that if you withdraw from a CD early, you will have to pay a fee such as 3-months interest or $25 (which is more than what you would make on the interest). additionally, you can select short-terms such as 3 or 6 months. so if something does come up in the middle of the term, you can pay for it with a credit card, then when your statement comes the following month, you can pay it off with the money invested in the CD.

i'm not an advocate for CDs (I invest my money in stocks/bonds/mutual funds personally), but I was just saying that is an option if someone wanted to make sure that they would at least have their money available in the event something happens. a savings account right now would only yield about 0.05%. a 3-month CD gives you about 0.40% (of course the min deposit is $2,500). don't forget that you'll have to pay taxes on the capital gains

of course, when you do the math, you're not talking very much gains in either case given today's interest rates, but at least you won't lose your money.