G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Car Idles At 250RPM???

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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 10:53 PM
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Unhappy Car Idles At 250RPM???

Hey I have a 03.5 Auto Sedan and for a fact I know it was Ideling at 650 or so, and today the car has been making weird whistles and I feel a "kick" when gears change from 3-4 when driving normaly (not hard) and now it idles at 250-350 and seems like its lacking power when I just let off the brake...the car wont move as quickly as it did when i would just let off the break...maybe this is "normal" but im a noob and feel like an *** cause I just had the dealer replace my compression rods, axle, shocks, valve covers and something else in the last 2 months...so I don't want to call them up for nothing...car has extended warenty if that helps...?

 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:08 PM
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How recent is your tune-up? A low idle can be a result fo several things..but usually comes back to either fuel or spark.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 4D05G35
How recent is your tune-up? A low idle can be a result fo several things..but usually comes back to either fuel or spark.
never tuned and never reset the ecu and stock intake...i'm hopeing its just something that happens 1 time im going to check back later tonight maybe it had a little brain fart if anything ill either change the filter..do a ecu relearn...or take it down to the stealership..im surprized it didnt just die on a red light
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by G35SedanGrn
never tuned and never reset the ecu and stock intake...i'm hopeing its just something that happens 1 time im going to check back later tonight maybe it had a little brain fart if anything ill either change the filter..do a ecu relearn...or take it down to the stealership..im surprized it didnt just die on a red light
Hopefully so, sometimes brain farts happen and you cant explain them. Reset the ecu and see if it comes back. I've had codes pop up for no reason, I reset the ecu and they never returned..computers arnt perfect.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 4D05G35
Hopefully so, sometimes brain farts happen and you cant explain them. Reset the ecu and see if it comes back. I've had codes pop up for no reason, I reset the ecu and they never returned..computers arnt perfect.
yeah haha one day my ses light, vdc light, slip light, brake light all turned on and i was liek holly **** haha then i turned the car off to call the dealer i turn it on and thr gone lol
 
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Old Apr 30, 2010 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by G35SedanGrn
yeah haha one day my ses light, vdc light, slip light, brake light all turned on and i was liek holly **** haha then i turned the car off to call the dealer i turn it on and thr gone lol
Yeah, I always look at CEL's/ codes as a recomendation, reset and see if it comes back.
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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How to reset your ECU and perform the Throttle Pedal Release and Idle Air Volume Learning procedures on an Nissan 350Z.

Before attempting any of the following procedures, it is advisable that you read through the instructions thoroughly and familiarize yourself with them.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
 
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Old May 2, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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are you sure the idle is 250? (the first notch is 500)... if you are at 250 the needle is below the first line... if it's 2.5 above the first line that's 750 and where it should be.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by OCG35
are you sure the idle is 250? (the first notch is 500)... if you are at 250 the needle is below the first line... if it's 2.5 above the first line that's 750 and where it should be.
it was at the first notch..are you sure thats 500? because before it was at about 1-2 lines under 1,000, unless im confuseing myself...AHHH haha
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by G35SedanGrn
it was at the first notch..are you sure thats 500? because before it was at about 1-2 lines under 1,000, unless im confuseing myself...AHHH haha
very first notch is 500... every line after that is 100... yes I'm positive.
 
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Old May 3, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by OCG35
very first notch is 500... every line after that is 100... yes I'm positive.
hmm then its at like 650...still feels like is about to die at every stoplight...oh well, i guess ill just do an ecu reset and see where that puts me...up side is i dont have to keep my foot on the brake cuz the car moves slower than a snail.
 
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