I think you can do it without pulling the motor. I haven't looked to hard but I think it's manageable as long as yup remove a good chunk of the front components

Ah, I forgot. Pushrod engines need to slide the cam in from the front, but ohc engines can install dropped right in.

right

Yea that's what I mean. You might have room when the rad is out but I'm not sure if the rad support would get in the way.

seems like a lot of work, just slap on a supercharger

From the link above:

More cost effective to put a blower on too.

I heard the RV cam might be a good choice.

I have JWT S1 cams and dual springs. They helped a lot in midrange.

changing cams on this engine is more difficult than most. The motor has to be almost completely stripped. just some of the things needed to remove before you can take the cams out.
drain fluids.
pull motor.
remove tranny, clutch, etc.
remove all front end accesories and drive pulley/belts.
remove upper and lower oil pans.
remove front and rear oil seals.
remove front timing cover.
remove timing chain.
remove secondary timing chain and pulleys and tensioners.
remove the secondary front timing cover.
remove valvecovers, VTC solenoids, and cam caps.

Now,.....you can take the cams out!!!

There are a couple things you could differently to get the cams out,but to properly reassemble the motor, you really should take off everything in the list above.

At that point, you are so far into the motor, you are better off just to pull the heads off and remove the rotating assembly and build a motor with stronger internals while you are at it! That's why you don't see many stock motors with bigger cams. These motors are really designed my Nissan to be put together one time and never taken apart! oh yeah.....everything is sealed up with RTV on these motors. totally sucks!!! you'll spend hours just scraping rtv off of parts and cleaning up again so that you can put down fresh rtv when it comes time to reassemble......Horrible!!

lol doesnt really seem worth it.

once people's piston rings start going out of warranty I bet we will see more cammed VQs

maxima guys seem to do it more then g/z guys

Keep in mind that to take advantage of cams, you'll need to modify other parts of the car. Cams trade low and midrange power for higher rpm power. There's no real way around it therefore you need to increase torque multiplication to get the motor into it's new lofty powerband or else the car is going to be slower from 0-60mph. Also since the motor will be making power to around 7200rpms or so, you need to add a heavier duty oil pump and Revup crank bolts if you want the motor to live. Don't forget you'll also need some sort of ECU programming to increase the rev limiter.

6MT - 3.69+ gears, extended rev limiter, Revup bolts, Revup oil pump. ~$1500 in parts without labor.


5AT - 3.69+ gears, higher stall torque converter (recommended), extended rev limiter, Revup bolts, Revup oil pump. ~$1500-2500 in parts without labor.


I'll admit, I've always had a desire to build up a 6MT G or Z with cams, gears, cleaned up heads, headers, Cosworth intake manifold, etc., but in the end it would just be cheaper to get an VQ37HR equipped G or Z plus it would be far more reliable.

what about an HR swap?