Superchage my 2005 G35 or buy a new g37?
OP, it'll be more cost effective for you to supercharge the G35 you own. If money isn't an object and/or you want more power, you can get a nicer platform & more power by supercharging the G37.
First off he never asked to go over 300whp. He said USEABLE power. And you could see 300whp with a couple of thousand dollars, check the na builds more often on my350z. Plus he wont have that doubt of blowing his motor like you do with FI. There is no such thing as a safe 350-400whp on stock internals? you serious, they last you like 10-15,000 miles at most. Supercharger is the only thing I have seen reach 20,000 miles on a stock motor.
Last edited by Bestswat; Aug 31, 2010 at 05:27 PM.
First off he never asked to go over 300whp. He said USEABLE power. And you could see 300whp with a couple of thousand dollars, check the na builds more often on my350z. Plus he wont have that doubt of blowing his motor like you do with FI. There is no such thing as a safe 350-400whp on stock internals? you serious, they last you like 10-15,000 miles at most. Supercharger is the only thing I have seen reach 20,000 miles on a stock motor.
Please show me the 'couple of thousand' bolt-on mod list and dyno chart for a 300whp NA VQ35, because I want me some of that!!
And as far as cheap NA builds, all it took kacz07 to hit the magic 300 was these few, inexpensive mods. I hope he got them all on eBay or they will be a bit over 'a couple thousand'...(I'm betting we blew that number at about item # 5)
Components from intake to Exhaust:
JWT PopCharger (ConceptZPerformance)
Custom RT Tuning 3inch MAF
Cosworth Manifold (Sharif@Forged)
Nismo Radiator Cap
Koyo R-core radiator
Samco hoses
GTM oil cooler
Ferrea +1mm Oversize Valve train
JWT C8R Camshafts
HR Head Gaskets
NGK Iridium tipped spark plugs (one step colder)
Wiseco 96mm 11.5:1 Pistons
-.020mm overbore
-ceramic coated
Eagle H-beam rods
ARP L19 Head Studs
ARP Main Stud kit
ACL Trust Washers
ACL Main Bearings
ACl Road Bearings
Engine Gasket Kit
Rear Main Seal Retainer
Engine Component Work:
-Block inspected and cleaned
-Block redecked
-Block Bored and Honed using a Torque Plate
-Rotating assembly balanced
-Crank magnafluxed
-Journals micro-polished
-Heads inspected and cleaned
-Heads redecked
-Ported exhaust and intake runners
-5 angle radius cut valve job
-Bowl work
-Valve stem seals installed
-Valve Stem Heights set
-Cold Clearance set for JWT cams
-Heads assembled
Megan Racing long tube headers
Motordyne Shockwave dual ti exhaust w/ XYZ straight pipe
UpRev Osiris Pro Tuner (w/ exhaust cam phasing)
_jb's made 312hp:
Engine Management System
Osiris Tuner Pro v2.0 (UpRev) - Rev Limit, Speed Limit, Reprogram Throttle Body, Tune, 5 Maps
Haltech Platinum PnP EMS Standalone for Air/Fuel Ratio, Ignition and Cam Timing
KPtechnologies VDC Memory Management Module
AutoMeter Nexus Water Temperature, Oil Pressure, and Air/Fuel Gauges
Engine
JE 11.7 CR +0.020 Pistons
Eagle Rods
ARP 2000 220,000 PSI Rated Rod Bolts
Calico Coated ACL Bearings
ARP Main Studs
ARP L19 Head Studs
HKS Head Gaskets
JWT C8R Camshafts
JWT Valve Springs and Shims
Deatschwerks 500cc Injectors
Cylinder Heads Ported with 5 Angle Valve Job
Nismo Oil Filler Cap
Intake and Exhaust
350Z Intake (Z-Tube)
K&N Hi-Flow Air Filter
CrawfordZ Polished Upper Plenum
CrawfordZ Headers with Jet-Hot 1300 Degree Coating
CrawfordZ High Flow Cats
HKS Hi-Power Ti Exhaust
1cockyz's list, with prices:
This is my N/A build project all prices listed
All machine work done by M2 race systems in Farmingdale, NJ
Short block:
Wiseco 11:1 .020" pistons $575 shipped on ebay new
Eagle rods $400 shipped from a forum member new
ACL race bearings, Calico CT-1 coated $256.85 shipped from calico
Machine work was $604.55 including nj 7% sales tax
bore and hone block $240
balanced rotating assembly $160
polish crank $45
Machine down the water jackets for the HR head gaskets $80
Measure all journals and housings $40
Revup oil pump $$185.50 new
OEM gasket set $287.41 new
Heads:
M2 Serdi valve job $335(4 angle with radius cut on intake and 1 angle with radius cut on exhaust) tips ground $55 and mill decks $125 and clean inspect assemble heads $150. Total for the heads was $711.55
Brian crower 264 cams with BC springs and Ti retainers $815 shipped forum member new
HR head gaskets and head bolts $116.80 including 7% sales tax
The intake and plenum setup: From filter to heads
JWT popcharger $109 from avalon racing new
samco intake duct $60 shipped on ebay new
proflow ported throttle body(not used on 2-19-09 dyno tune)
APS tall boy plenum $190 shipped from a forum member used
Nonrevup lower with all the casting imperfections removed
Z1 Big maf housing
Exhaust:
DC sports stainless headers $300 shipped ebay new
aps test pipes $85 shipped my350z member used
nismo y pipe and exhaust $575 ebay used
Misc:
JWT oil pan spacer $65 shipped from my350z member used
koyo r core $275 my350z member new
Fluidampr $335 from titan motorsports
All in all, my impression is it's a little beyond the OP's commitment level...
Last edited by Swivel; Aug 31, 2010 at 05:53 PM.
I admit, I don't have the time or energy to be a pioneer. There needs to be something very straight forward in regards to the speedo, tach and the rest of the guages in order for me to consider this. This and the cost of course 
Most of the swaps are on drift or track cars that don't have to resolve the dash issues that a DD would. Noah's LS2 swap in his 350z was just about as close to a street mobile as I've read. I can't remember if he actually resolved everything though. The FD RX7 guys have these issues down to a science.
But I think a swap like this with some type of AOD tranny would be in the $5,000 range +/- a few grand.
Most of the swaps are on drift or track cars that don't have to resolve the dash issues that a DD would. Noah's LS2 swap in his 350z was just about as close to a street mobile as I've read. I can't remember if he actually resolved everything though. The FD RX7 guys have these issues down to a science.
But I think a swap like this with some type of AOD tranny would be in the $5,000 range +/- a few grand.
For another thousand I can have a single turbo setup including EMS and -- conservatively -- over 350whp/wtq, installed over a weekend (so tell me why I don't..oh yeah, I'm too broke, LOL). Boosted Performance (Sasha) here in Alberta is making these kits and runs one on his Z - 402whp@8psi (6MT)
LS2 swap would be interesting, but the V8 rumble coming from a G would just sound wrong, haha! For my money (if I had any) I'd rather just find a V8 car I liked and work on other aspects like weight and handling.
LS2 swap would be interesting, but the V8 rumble coming from a G would just sound wrong, haha! For my money (if I had any) I'd rather just find a V8 car I liked and work on other aspects like weight and handling.
Last edited by Swivel; Aug 31, 2010 at 06:28 PM.
I hear ya. that's why the G8 or GXP is interesting. Along with the 300C SRT 8 and Caddy CT-V. The problem is weight. These are all tipping 4,000+
The good thing about the G is it's still around 3500lbs. About the weight of the new Mustang GTs.
I don't know what ems you would get installed but our doggy doors are limited to TS for reflashes or a cut/splice wiring with a UTEC or similar.
If I did entertain this, I'd have to make myself a deal that this would have to last me another 5 years or so.
The good thing about the G is it's still around 3500lbs. About the weight of the new Mustang GTs.
I don't know what ems you would get installed but our doggy doors are limited to TS for reflashes or a cut/splice wiring with a UTEC or similar.
If I did entertain this, I'd have to make myself a deal that this would have to last me another 5 years or so.
^ He uses Haltech, which I understand is not a complete standalone and would at the very least require some wiring adaptation or foregoing of certain controls..honestly I don't know too much about EMS's. But for the sake of argument (which I know you eschew 
)if one had a 2003.5-2006 sedan, getting some stout FI numbers is neither difficult nor particularly expensive compared to an engine swap or a full-on NA build.
)if one had a 2003.5-2006 sedan, getting some stout FI numbers is neither difficult nor particularly expensive compared to an engine swap or a full-on NA build.
Haltech is a very capable EMS. I just don't like the mandatory slice and dice requirement. I assume since you mention a buddy that runs fi, you guys have a shop that can also tune the Haltech.
I too have a concern about driving a FI VQ motor. To me (not paricularly anyone else ) the amount of engine pops is just a little too high. Especially with the rods that tend to bend. I don't know about you but I'm in the 80,000 miles range on this motor and putting this motor on positive psi may not be the best thing for this motor.
To me (again only for me ) If I could do a swap for about $5000 total cost, get a low miler engine/tranny at 400hp/400ft lbs torque na, that would solve alot of problems. One of them being having to deal with a higher mileage motor in MY situation. 
I too have a concern about driving a FI VQ motor. To me (not paricularly anyone else
) the amount of engine pops is just a little too high. Especially with the rods that tend to bend. I don't know about you but I'm in the 80,000 miles range on this motor and putting this motor on positive psi may not be the best thing for this motor. To me (again only for me
) If I could do a swap for about $5000 total cost, get a low miler engine/tranny at 400hp/400ft lbs torque na, that would solve alot of problems. One of them being having to deal with a higher mileage motor in MY situation.
import talk only
woah stop there jeff this is a g35 forum meaning import no talk of how torque and hp american cars have. I hate to hear about american cars and their power so what nissan honda toyota are the top seller in america for a reason.
your car is not going to be worth anything with or w/o turbo