Got it. Sorry I didn't see your reply above about about the newspaper check. I will try it out. Will post back with results. I appreciate your input.

 

Can you post a picture of your engine bay??

I can then validate if you have a mechanical or electric fan.

Post #10 explains the fan clutch issue.

 

If you can stop the fan with the newspaper that fan clutch is toast. Be VERY CAREFUL

 

It's mechanical. Electric is a dual fan set-up correct?

 

Lol. Here's another question for you? And I'm not doubting your intelligence or suggestion but I am just trying to understand. I called the auto parts store now to price a fan clutch. The guy said how do you know it's bad? i said I don't but I wanted to have an idea what it would cost if I need one. He asked what my car problem was and he explained. He said I have air in the system and that's what the problem is even if the gauges show it's shows a correct charge. His suggestion is to evacuate and re-charge. What does the fan clutch do? Does it protect an individual if they inadvertently stuck their hand in the fan assembly?

 

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...enance/1772922

This article backs your suggestion. This is all making sense now.

 

http://news.carjunky.com/how_stuff_w..._it_c387.shtml

 

If you can go to the auto parts store ask then to plug in the obd scanner which will allow them to see live data.

For a fan clutch these are your operating temperatures:

HIGHWAY SPEEDS: 177-183
EXIT HIGHWAY: 183-186
STOP AND GO: 185-191
HEAVY STOP AND GO W/AC:191-194
IDLE W.OUT AC:185-188
IDLE W. AC:188-191

ALL OF THESE TEMPS ARE 100% TESTED. BY ME.

ALSO AUXILIARY FAN KICKS ON AT 203 WITH AC OFF @ 50%
WITH AC OFF 210 @ 100%

 

Do not do this. Not good advice. Hell its not even physically possible what the auto parts store guy said.

I'm leaning fan clutch now.

 

Passed the newspaper test. Shredded the tip and showed no signs of stopping or even slowing down at that.

 

I don't know about you guys, but my 2003 does not have a clutch in the conventional sense. It has a variable swash plate compressor that adjusts itself continuously. The upside is more refined and efficient performance than a typical on/off compressor. The downside is that it fails as a complete unit. Interesting side note, I remember when I was working as a bearing design engineer 10 years ago when the application came in as a new design - it was much more like a variable hydraulic compressor than anything currently in use under the hood.

My compressor failed three years ago - started buzzing and failing to cool intermittantly. At that time Infinti replaced it at part cost ($600). Now it is buzzing and getting intermittant at low engine speed again. A little more study indicates that it is going into an overpressure, self protection mode during high temp, low speed operation. For the past year or more I have been living with it to avoid the high cost of replacement.

 

not to thread high jack but been having a very similar problem as the OP. Works fine on the highway but stop and go it turns off and back on after maybe a light or 2.. or more constant driving.

I tried evacuating and re-pulling vacuum with a fresh charge of 2 new cans. IIRC pressure readings were 15-20 on the low side and high side was around 55 based on this pic, ambient temp around 100 and low humidity.. based on touch high side line it hot to my fingers.. any ideas?

 

oh and recently replaced radiator with a racing alum core and fabbed in 2 universal slim fans, only one speed...high and seem to work good..

 

^^ You may need to adjust the temperature where the fans kick on.

When the A/c gets over pressure and no cooling occurs it shuts down the a/c compressor to protect the system from exploding.

 

....

variable squash plate?

What?

Pictures please.