Moderators, please leave this in the general forum for a couple of days.

I have not had a clear answer in the Audio/Electrical sub threads.

My transmission stutters when the stereo is turned up loud, and I only have 1300 watts RMS currently. My question is if anyone has had this problem and if the "Big 3" upgrade fixed it. I already have a yellow top optima battery. I tried a H.O. alternator but blew it in the 1st 4 months. I spent alot of money on it and dont want to go that route again. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!!

 

"Only" 1300w RMS?! That's a ton, lol. You sure that's not 1300w max? If not, no wonder you're having problems

 

It's a little less... I have a HD JL 750/1 and a JL 400/4. JL amps are very power hungry

 

Did you try capacitors with your setup?

 

I have heard from a few people that capacitors are almost worthless and only provide a very small improvement when you start pushing your stereo, then they cant fill fast enough to meet the demand.

 

Super slaps in the trunk

 

What are super slaps???

 

You're not anywhere near 1300 RMS, not even CLOSE. As Ryanm8 eluded to.

How's that 4 channel hooked up? using it as a 4 channel?
If so, you're probably looking at about 1100 PEAK , NOT RMS, do a lil googling on RMS.


If you're listening to something with considerate bass that's fairly consistant, and always loud, then you'd be better off with another battery in the back as opposed to a CAP, simply because a good CAP for that application costs more than a Gel cell Optima. Cap's work, anyone who said otherwise is wrong. The thing is to use them on a big stereo isn't cost effective for the reason above. For your standard 500 RMS or less stereo a farad or two is plenty.

Only downfall is you have to factor in the expensive wiring and possibly an isolator to save your alternator to properly run the battery. But if you want to get serious, that's the way to go.

As far as your immediate issue, install 4 AWG on the transmission bellhousing to chassis, as well as valve cover base to chassis, alternator to chassis, and of course, upgrade the battery ground as well. I'd wager to say that's the problem, frequencies are a funny thing.

 

1st good answer I have had .. Thank you for your help .... very much appreciated

 

i had the same problem...

Current setup:

OEM Radio

MA Audio 1200 WATT MAX AMP
1 farad Rockford Capacitor
Red Top Optima
4 gauge primary to Cap.
10 inch JL W6
BIG 3
10lb Motorcycle Battery <<<<< Problem SOLVED



Without the battery i could not turn the bass up if not the shifts would make the car feel as if the transmission was slipping to death.


I went to Walmart and purchased a cheap 10lb cycle battery and followed their instructions for charging and building .... then i tied it into the capacitor and placed a fuse on it as well for safety.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-...ttery/16795221

After about 4 hours of cruising with the bass on low (letting it charge completely with the higher amperage of the alternator) I decided to test it, I turned up the bass and ... clean music with no transmission issues at all. Very happy

 

Caps aren't worthless, while your amps are operational they arent recieving a constant steady voltage draw / current flow, the voltage and current fluctuate, especially when you get into the higher wattage systems. a cap simply helps to even out the current before it gets to the amp(s). you probably wont notice a difference in sound quality unless you are an audiophile. but it is better for the amp if it is receiving steady voltage / amperage.

no, they were not made to keep your headlights from dimming(and your tranny/engine from being robbed of power). what your experiencing is simply a lack of current flow for your cars other electrical systems. If your system is tuned right, you should only be pushing 1000-1150wrms when your system is turned all the way up. but the big 3 should be enough to fix your problem if im not mistaken our cars have 110A alternators, and your HD/750/1 only calls for a 60A fuse. not saying thats not a lot of power but you obviously wont be pulling 60A lol

as for a big 3 fix, I just went to autozone and bought 3 battery cables, they are already tipped, insulated and they are 4AWG. its just a matter of finding the part of the alternator to connect them to -_-

 

Mine did the same thing.. I put an optima yellow top and it stopped..

 

Kinetik batteries work good as well. I had one in my Nissan and will be purchasing one for my G since the battery just died from it sitting all the time. The cool thing is you go to kinetiks website and choose the battery you need based on the amount of wattage your system runs.

 

A starting battery and Deep cycle battery are two very different things.

Putting a battery that serves both purposes such as an Optima YELLOW makes sense, but the bulk of what that battery will do for him, is simply help save the battery. Not really going to solve his problem at all. Buying the right battery for the right application will ensure that the job gets done, and the components survive. Most testimonies of 'buying this battery will fix your problem' are a load of crap, many people just happen to replace a battery that was on it's way out, or already toast, so ANY new battery would yeild good results lol.

Upgrading Grounds is the cheapest and best way to attack your issues. Then if you find there's still issues, you can tackle the power supply. Most people 'soupe up' the power side of things (bigger Alty, battery, etc), and completely forget about the OTHER SIDE of the circuit, the one that takes the bulk of the load. Good grounding points, short grounds, good wiring and connectors will fix so many electrical gremlins that you literally wouldn't believe it.


CLIFFS: Don't run out any buy a battery or alternator. Upgrade your grounds, and post back results. As the ING direct dude says, "save your money!"

 

The feedback is great. I am getting a quote from Grounding Gear or "Gordee's" for a 10 wire 4 gauge grounding kit. I will start with this and see if it fixes the problem. Thank you