since you tried boosting the car and nothing happens, i have a hunch it's the starter.
clicking might mean it's not catching, but it's odd that it's just one click.

maybe a relay is toast?

getting the codes is a really good idea at this point. will save you a lot of grief

 

Flat bed is picking it up tonight, hope to have the codes by tomorrow and I will post em up..

 

dang, that sucks dude. hope it's just something simple and easy fix.

 

Ok, so the guy that does my tires and the work on my wife and kids car put it on his machine. The codes he got were 41001 and 41000. We looked up a couple things but he conceded it was over his head. Please help, who knows what is for what on these codes?.............

 

any help and advice is much appreciated.

 

Are you sure it's not u1000 and u1001?
These are communication errors. Bad ground or bad ECM. Maybe that's why there's no crank.

Had this happened to my wife's Xterra once but after cleaning and tightening the ground wires to chassis everything was good. Try that.

Get the mechanic to erase code and then disconnect the battery overnight and see if that help.

If not, Bring it to Nissan so they can pinpont where the communication becomes loopy.

Hope this helps.

 

Turns out it is a U1001 and a U1000, and a mechanic with atrocious handwritting.
He is going to clear them today, and disconnect the battery. Fingers crossed I will have something tomorrow.

 

So here I am and still working on it. Turns out my AT fuse (15amp) keeps on blowing. Everytime I shift thru reverse or in reverse. It blows and sends the car in to "limp" mode, then after I shut it down it will not start. Anyone have any thoughts or similar experiences?

 

I don't have any similar experience, but as an electrical engineer I can tell you that when you keep blowing a large 15A fuse, there is a short somewhere. Since it's related to the transmission and it is on a large current circuit, I would start to question if the valve body shift solenoid is stuck and causes a short/overcurrent. Will your car actually go into reverse? These kind of issues should be handled by either the dealership or a mechanic familiar with this drivetrain.

 

So if you are ready for the punch line. It is a short in the reverse lights that is back feeding to the AT fuse, blowing it and shutting down the system. A $200.00 fix at the dealership, and my baby will be back to me in no time.
Thank you to everyone for the help. Now I am hoping to get some advice on making it even more dear to me. My dealership is telling me I need rotors, calipers, etc. Any good high performance aftermarket recommendations? And where and websites to get them?
Am also looking to replace my exhaust as it is due for a fixing. Would love some direction on the same, something nice and custom...websites?
Thanks again

 

For rotors and pads, I went with racing brake slotted rotors and ET300 pads. Very little brake dust, no squeak and they brake very well. I've also experienced no rotor warping and the rotor hubs are either powder coated or painted, so they don't rust up like stock rotors. ET300 pads are for aggressive street driving, light track. You can go more aggressive with the pads but I wouldn't recommend for daily driving. Love this setup and they make parts for the X. I have an '06.