why not to buy Megan long tubes
why not to buy Megan long tubes
Ok so many of you told me so....but I bought them anyway....BIG mistake..yes I should have listened ... This is the first & last time I buy anything made by MR... I had a fitment issue with the drivers side header hitting the steering, i had to heat the tube & bend it to make it clear. 3 weeks after install the drivers side bracket weld broke off the tube, leaving 2 holes in the tube. just last weekend the rear o2 sensor bung weld broke completely out of the collector tube & fell out, when the o2 sensor came & got ripped out of the harness ruining the o2 sensor & before it got torn off, it hit the bottom of the transmission pan, denting it & caused the wiring harness inside it to get pinched between the valve body causing the wires to be shorting out & not allowing the car to start. This is all bc Megan Racing quality is cheap, using 18 gauge piping which is way to thin.
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Wow.. man I'm sorry this happened to you. Hope it all works out. Even before reading this, I will never buy a MR part.. EVER. Cheap ****. I do not buy cheap parts, is rather spend more money for excellent craftsmanship than save some cash on cheap junk. Best wishes to you!
For some reason I just can't believe the o2 sensor was able to dent the transmission pan and do internal damage.
Also, you don't think heating up the header and bending it has anything to do with the bracket breaking?
Also, you don't think heating up the header and bending it has anything to do with the bracket breaking?
Where I heated the tube is no where near the bracket, so not connected..& believe it or not that's what happened...if you think about the force of driving ( movement force) & the weight of an o2 extender, plus the weight of the o2 sensor hitting the ground & bouncing up..there's no doubt that's what happened. Plus the was an exact match of the shape of the extender imprinted in the trans pan, with a fresh mark & paint chipped off....
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It hasn't been tuned, or on the dyno since the install...but from the seat, I think it lost a small amount of power on the low end, gained small on mid range & most was gained on the top end....Honestly I don't care what the gain or loss was...these
Pos' are coming off as soon as I decide what other long tubes I will buy or a shorty set up combined with some resonated downpipes...In the past i ran either Hotshot Performance or Stillen headers in the past, since HS is out of business, it will prob be either Stillen, or DC unless I can find more options around the same price point...I don't wanna spend a huge amount on a mod that doesn't gain a lot of power since I m not supercharged or running n2o...
Pos' are coming off as soon as I decide what other long tubes I will buy or a shorty set up combined with some resonated downpipes...In the past i ran either Hotshot Performance or Stillen headers in the past, since HS is out of business, it will prob be either Stillen, or DC unless I can find more options around the same price point...I don't wanna spend a huge amount on a mod that doesn't gain a lot of power since I m not supercharged or running n2o...
Where I heated the tube is no where near the bracket, so not connected..& believe it or not that's what happened...if you think about the force of driving ( movement force) & the weight of an o2 extender, plus the weight of the o2 sensor hitting the ground & bouncing up..there's no doubt that's what happened. Plus the was an exact match of the shape of the extender imprinted in the trans pan, with a fresh mark & paint chipped off....
The valve body isnt damaged, if you are fimiliar to this trans, then you know that there are 2- wiring harnesses that connect near the valve body. These are the wires the got pinched between the trans housing..and bc of how its layed out & where the wire harness holders are, this could happen if something hit the pan just right...Maybe the ones you have seen with dents didnt cause the wires to get pinched, but this is the "exact" cause of what happened to mine.. Before this happened i had absolutely no issues at all with transmission, or no starting issue at all. Plus if it didn't happen, the start signal fuse would not have popped if the wires would not have been shorted out by this happening. Replaced fuse, moved and replaced harness, and have no issues now... You can say or believe that this cant or didn't happen, but in fact it did happen....Just Saying!!!
Yes LTH eliminate the downpipes which have the cats in them...I am trying to decide to go with another set of long tubes or go with shorties, and hi flow cats or downpipes with no cats, but with resonators instead...trying to avoid the "raspy" sound of no cats & straight pipes...


