Tiptronic typically a harder shift?
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Tiptronic typically a harder shift?
Hey Everyone,
Just purchased an 06 Sedan 5AT. In drive it's smooth as can be, but when I put it into shiftable/tiptronic, it will slam into gear sometimes. Is this to be expected? Usually, it's from 2nd to 3rd if that matters. Ideas?
Thanks!
Just purchased an 06 Sedan 5AT. In drive it's smooth as can be, but when I put it into shiftable/tiptronic, it will slam into gear sometimes. Is this to be expected? Usually, it's from 2nd to 3rd if that matters. Ideas?
Thanks!
The 2-3 shift being hard while in manual mode is common. It's been discussed before with no real resolution and no real fix that I'm aware of. Guys have proposed workaround so but it's generally been written off as "normal"
Personally the hard 2-3 shift irks me to the point I just don't use manual mode at all these days
Personally the hard 2-3 shift irks me to the point I just don't use manual mode at all these days
The 2nd to 3rd shift, hard shift is normal.
I have posted this and will post again,
2>3 hard shift is normal. Only way to fix it is to rebuild the transmission. I wouldn't worry about it.
The 2-3 shift being hard while in manual mode is common. It's been discussed before with no real resolution and no real fix that I'm aware of. Guys have proposed workaround so but it's generally been written off as "normal"
Personally the hard 2-3 shift irks me to the point I just don't use manual mode at all these days
Personally the hard 2-3 shift irks me to the point I just don't use manual mode at all these days
I have posted this and will post again,
2>3 hard shift is normal. Only way to fix it is to rebuild the transmission. I wouldn't worry about it.
The 2-3 harsh shift is caused by
apply timing of the high and lowreverse
clutch, not the front band.
Here’s why: The front band is holding
in first and second, but is ineffective. In
third gear, it’s part of the applied state.
The servo never loses pressure, so if
the band were slipping it would cause a
spin-up or neutral, not a flare.
The high and low-reverse clutch
applies and the forward brake releases
on the 2-3 shift. The timing between
these two shift components is critical.
The high and low-reverse clutch drum
is splined to the direct clutch and is
connected to the rear planetary. The forward
brake is located in the back of the
transmission and is splined to the case
The problem is the clearance specifications,
and there are plenty of them
out there: We found at least three and
they were all different. Having the
wrong clearance — being too loose or
too tight — will force you to remove
the transmission again. And most of the
clutch packs don’t have a conventional
selective plate.
So here’s the fix: set the high and
low-reverse clutch clearance to 0.050”
and the direct clutch to 0.060”, or as
close as humanly possible
apply timing of the high and lowreverse
clutch, not the front band.
Here’s why: The front band is holding
in first and second, but is ineffective. In
third gear, it’s part of the applied state.
The servo never loses pressure, so if
the band were slipping it would cause a
spin-up or neutral, not a flare.
The high and low-reverse clutch
applies and the forward brake releases
on the 2-3 shift. The timing between
these two shift components is critical.
The high and low-reverse clutch drum
is splined to the direct clutch and is
connected to the rear planetary. The forward
brake is located in the back of the
transmission and is splined to the case
The problem is the clearance specifications,
and there are plenty of them
out there: We found at least three and
they were all different. Having the
wrong clearance — being too loose or
too tight — will force you to remove
the transmission again. And most of the
clutch packs don’t have a conventional
selective plate.
So here’s the fix: set the high and
low-reverse clutch clearance to 0.050”
and the direct clutch to 0.060”, or as
close as humanly possible
Time to neutral drop till you get a replacement (DONT)!
Thread Starter
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Haha, I've never been one to abuse my car. I know what you mean though. When I was researching the G, I checked out a few 0-60 videos on youtube and most of the guys do that.
I guess if I wanted to really push my warranty I could have a shop look at it and maybe they'd say it "needs" something, but I really doubt it.
I guess if I wanted to really push my warranty I could have a shop look at it and maybe they'd say it "needs" something, but I really doubt it.
There is a thread here (too lazy to search this morning) that describes the perfect launch control procedure. It involves switching into Neutral and then revving the engine to ~2.5k for 5 zeconds.... letting it go back to idle then switching back to drive... etc etc.
When launching in my FailAT I am 80% brake at 1750-1800 RPM And I don't end up spinning much.... Unless I WOT, but who does that...?
Plenum spacer helps chirping into different gears haha. Love this car It Is NOT the new civic.
When launching in my FailAT I am 80% brake at 1750-1800 RPM And I don't end up spinning much.... Unless I WOT, but who does that...?
Plenum spacer helps chirping into different gears haha. Love this car It Is NOT the new civic.
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Yep, I have definitely noticed hard shifts from second to third. What I have found to help is to let off the gas when you shift in tip-tronic, as of your are driving a manual. It takes some of the added pressure off the tranny and helps with that shuddering that makes me cringe
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Yep, I have definitely noticed hard shifts from second to third. What I have found to help is to let off the gas when you shift in tip-tronic, as of your are driving a manual. It takes some of the added pressure off the tranny and helps with that shuddering that makes me cringe
There is a thread here (too lazy to search this morning) that describes the perfect launch control procedure. It involves switching into Neutral and then revving the engine to ~2.5k for 5 zeconds.... letting it go back to idle then switching back to drive... etc etc..
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I have the hard 2-3 shift on my 2006 X as well. Also, if I start out my acceleration - say out of a parking lot into traffic, for instance- in manual mode but put it into drive before the 1-2 shift, I can even get the auto mode to give me the hard 2-3 shift.
This hard shift shouldn't feel like a shudder, but more like a solid thud. And it seems that if you're willing to shift anywhere other than that 4K to 6K RPM range, you can avoid it. So floor it or drive it like a granny!
One other thought to go along with this: it's definitely a mechanical issue. Recently, I replaced the transmission fluid, drove the car to test it, and ended up being about a quart low after driving it for about 15 miles. I did notice that while the fluid was low, I couldn't even MAKE it shift hard. So, take heart that the fluid is full and doing its job!
This hard shift shouldn't feel like a shudder, but more like a solid thud. And it seems that if you're willing to shift anywhere other than that 4K to 6K RPM range, you can avoid it. So floor it or drive it like a granny!
One other thought to go along with this: it's definitely a mechanical issue. Recently, I replaced the transmission fluid, drove the car to test it, and ended up being about a quart low after driving it for about 15 miles. I did notice that while the fluid was low, I couldn't even MAKE it shift hard. So, take heart that the fluid is full and doing its job!
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Yea, it's typically just a thud and definitely doesn't feel like it's slipping or loose etc. I've pretty much figured out that when the car isn't warmed up enough in the morning it will kind of jump into gear a little. Again, nothing crazy and very avoidable.
Thanks for the replies guys!!
Thanks for the replies guys!!