G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Warm air through vent fix

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  #16  
Old 02-10-2005, 12:07 PM
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you can do it with the heat also sometimes it gets too hot with the fan and you keep turning it on and off just press mode and heat comes through
 
  #17  
Old 02-10-2005, 03:31 PM
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I tried this last summer and it didn't work for me.
I'll try it when it finally warms up again.
Maybe it will work in '05.
 
  #18  
Old 02-10-2005, 04:13 PM
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as stated earlier i have tried this and still get hot air around my FEET no matter where the air comes in. I wish it did work, really wished it worked. If anybody is in DC area feel free to show me what I am doing incorrectly.

Mark
03 coupe

PS if this did fix the probelm the threads wouldn't still be around on multiple boards.
 
  #19  
Old 02-10-2005, 09:49 PM
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all you have to do is hit the button where it circulates the air instead of letting fresh air in. had the same issue with my maxima.
 
  #20  
Old 02-11-2005, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Specialist23
all you have to do is hit the button where it circulates the air instead of letting fresh air in. had the same issue with my maxima.
Except when you go into Recirc mode, the G35 thinks it's smarter that you and always turns the A/C on, which immediately solves the "hot air" problem. The objective is to have fresh, unheated, uncooled, outside air blown into the car. How hard can that be???!
 
  #21  
Old 02-12-2005, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Noremac
Except when you go into Recirc mode, the G35 thinks it's smarter that you and always turns the A/C on, which immediately solves the "hot air" problem. The objective is to have fresh, unheated, uncooled, outside air blown into the car. How hard can that be???!
i understand and you are correct. what i forgot was that you should have the system off. then click on the recirculating button. just do it. see what happens. a/c doesn't turn on if the system is off, but the air will stop circulating. trust me.
 
  #22  
Old 02-12-2005, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Specialist23
i understand and you are correct. what i forgot was that you should have the system off. then click on the recirculating button. just do it. see what happens. a/c doesn't turn on if the system is off, but the air will stop circulating. trust me.
yup... that's what i do. i didn't understand all the confusion about having air coming through the vents w/ the system off. with it off... hit the recirc button and no air comes through.
 
  #23  
Old 02-12-2005, 01:39 PM
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I don't know how you can handle temps that high in the car. Sweat to think about it.

55C? 60C?
 
  #24  
Old 02-12-2005, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Specialist23
i understand and you are correct. what i forgot was that you should have the system off. then click on the recirculating button. just do it. see what happens. a/c doesn't turn on if the system is off, but the air will stop circulating. trust me.
It'll probably worked, But from my personal experience....
When you have the recirculate on w/o A/C, and w/ or w/o the fan on, your windshield fogs up....
Then you turn on the front windshield defogger, and A/C is ON automatically. You would then turn OFF the A/C, minutes later, fogs up again, you can decide whether to turn on the A/C or to turn on the blower to defog, but then... kinda defeats the purpose of this thread...

Not taking away the credit from purupose of this thread is to help the community, but just another one with 03/5 experiencing the same.
I'm just waiting for my condo to be complete so I have my own garage to try the diy to seal the seams in the battery compartment, which according to many that this diy fixes the problem.
Good luck everyone in finding an easier solution for this and post the result to benefit the g35driver.com community.
 
  #25  
Old 02-12-2005, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by madabs
I had the problem as many that warm air comes into the car when driving even when the fan is off.
This has been a common problem with G35s. A search should find several posts on this subject. You'll probably need to go back 2 years or so.

In case the search doesn't work, here's my two cents for your consideration.

The first point is why this happens. If you'll look at the first picture you'll see the cabin's outside air supply opening and seal inside the red rectangle. The second picture shows the underhood air supply path across the top of the battery.

With the cowl top covers in place, outside air is supplied through the cowl top cover "grills" at the base of the windshield to this opening. Theoretically, with the "Hoodedge" cover (including it's "Battery" cover) and cowl top seal rubber in place, all outside air enters through these cowl grill openings.

Now for the real world. The air opening between the top of the battery and the underside of the cowl combined with the small openings in hoodedge cover and battery cover provide a path for hot underhood air to enter the cabin air system.

The fix... seal the openings in the hoodedge and battery covers. It worked for me.

Note: The above reflects my subjective opinions. You're entitled to yours.
 
Attached Thumbnails Warm air through vent fix-cabin-air-intake-1.jpg   Warm air through vent fix-underhood-air-supply-above-battery.jpg  

Last edited by DaveO; 02-14-2005 at 02:48 PM.
  #26  
Old 02-14-2005, 05:24 PM
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I haven't noticed this on my G yet, but I also have a Nissan Pathfinder and It does this on warm days with the A/C off. I ask the dealer about it. They said to do exactly what Madabs was talking about. They also explained the reason for the air is because the EPA, DOT, I forget what government agency requires fresh air into the cabin to prevent the posibility of carbon monoxide poisoning.
 
  #27  
Old 02-14-2005, 10:39 PM
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Yup Dave, exact same thing goes for the Coupe as well. Sygma what Dave is suggesting is not completely sealing off the cabin's outside air opening but rather sealing of the openings around the battery compartment and cowl that are allowing hot air to get to this opening. By doing what Dave suggets, the hot air flowing into the cabin will be significantly reduced for it will be drawing the majoirty of the air from those "cowl top cover grills" right there at there at the base of your windshield. Essentially its taking what you've alreay got, and making it better.
 
  #28  
Old 02-15-2005, 03:52 PM
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I read your post with some interest. Today, O/S temp 53 and sunny, inside set at 68. At startup in full auto (no A/C), system selected bi-level, later switched to upper only, with cool air flowing from vents. I did nothing except allow the system to think for itself! Maybe you do have a glitch somewhere. I am sometimes amazed at how smart the system is; it always seems to be doing what it should for conditions, something even my 5 Series didn't do!
 
  #29  
Old 02-15-2005, 07:10 PM
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Birdman, I mostly understand what DaveO is talking about, but I wasn't really commenting on his post. I was just giving another angle that hadn't been covered.
 
  #30  
Old 02-17-2005, 07:49 PM
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have played with this for a few days and using the input from everyone have found the following:

MANUAL MODE
>>outside air temp less than 74 degrees, (use outside air mode)
Dial the inside temp to 60 and set fan at any speed you like. If it dark outside the air coming in will be close to the outside air temp. if the sun is out then the air gets warmed somewhat so you need to click the A/C on and off manually
>>outside air temp greater than 74, (use outside air or re-circ mode)
Use the A/C

AUTO MODE
>>outside air temp less than 74 degrees, (use outside air mode)
Dial the inside temp to 60 and the fan will run faster than you may like it but the air coming in will be about the same as the outside air temp.
>>outside air greater than 74 degrees, (use ouside air or re-circ mode)
Dial the inside temp to wherever you like and let the A/C take care of it.

i am going to try the duct tape deal this weekend too 'cause i'd like to use manual mode instead of auto mode when bringing in fresh air less than 74 degrees.

hope this helps some and thanks everyone for the ideas.
 
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