Compression rods and relignment
If you search online, you can find them for under $400 for the pair. Bushings are $20ish
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G35X-compres...r#ht_649wt_945
I know when i did my wheel bearing, i had a hard time separating the compression rod from the knuckle. Unsure if I could have done it without removing the half-shaft first or not.
labor rate depends on how long it takes to remove the rods. On a 2WD southern car, this could be a 1hr job if it comes apart easily. On an AWD northern car, it took me 2 hours just to remove enough crap due to corrosion to get to the point where i could separate the comp rod from the knuckle. And that didn't even include removing it from the body side.
The bushings look easy to press in. I'll have to buy a set and give it a shot when i change out my front wheel bearings in the next few weeks (again
)
Sad thing is i've replaced both rods before on my car under warranty. Apparently they are failing again, as i have a little highway vibration and cold weather knock that i can't trace to anything else
http://www.ebay.com/itm/G35X-compres...r#ht_649wt_945
I know when i did my wheel bearing, i had a hard time separating the compression rod from the knuckle. Unsure if I could have done it without removing the half-shaft first or not.
labor rate depends on how long it takes to remove the rods. On a 2WD southern car, this could be a 1hr job if it comes apart easily. On an AWD northern car, it took me 2 hours just to remove enough crap due to corrosion to get to the point where i could separate the comp rod from the knuckle. And that didn't even include removing it from the body side.
The bushings look easy to press in. I'll have to buy a set and give it a shot when i change out my front wheel bearings in the next few weeks (again
)Sad thing is i've replaced both rods before on my car under warranty. Apparently they are failing again, as i have a little highway vibration and cold weather knock that i can't trace to anything else
You have to replace the rods before alignment because the bushing keeps your caster squared and true. With a failed bushing your car will fall out of alignment almost instantly.
You do not want to replace just the bushing because there is an irreplaceable ball joint on the other end of the compression rod that most likely also needs replacement.
What you should do is buy a new set of arms, have the bushings pressed out and have polyurethane bushings put in them because the new rubber bushing will fail in a matter of months. I actually have a brand new set for sale with urethane bushings installed, but they won't fit the X. If you'd like, I can order some, replace the bushings and mail them to you for around $320.
You do not want to replace just the bushing because there is an irreplaceable ball joint on the other end of the compression rod that most likely also needs replacement.
What you should do is buy a new set of arms, have the bushings pressed out and have polyurethane bushings put in them because the new rubber bushing will fail in a matter of months. I actually have a brand new set for sale with urethane bushings installed, but they won't fit the X. If you'd like, I can order some, replace the bushings and mail them to you for around $320.
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,112
Likes: 12
From: San Francisco
2006 Vortech supercharged Sedan
http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/...71.135.162.207
all front bushings,or just the ones you need
http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/...71.135.162.207
stupid easy to install if the shop refuses go elsewhere
all front bushings,or just the ones you need
http://conceptzperformance.com/Cart/...71.135.162.207
stupid easy to install if the shop refuses go elsewhere
I still dont know what the rattle is can anyone help me out? Also while driving i notice the rattle lessons or completely goes away WHILE braking. I thought maybe something was loose because just replace the brakes not too long ago. Everything seems tight idk wtf it is! annoying!!
Just replaced compression rod and lower control arm bushings this weekend. Had to remove quite a few parts just to get to them, including a huge brace that spans the width of the car. It's simple, but only if you have the right tools - impact wrench and a press to get the old bushings out. Took me more than 2 hours to get everything done.
I know a guy at my work who had a mechanic change a headlight bulb for him....and rented a rental car for the car so he could go to work.
I told him I would have done it for him in the parking lot for $10 and the cost of bulb
If you're replacing just the bushings (pressing them out/in without removing the compression rod itself), think an alignment is still necessary?
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
If you're replacing just the bushings (pressing them out/in without removing the compression rod itself), think an alignment is still necessary?
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
If you're replacing just the bushings (pressing them out/in without removing the compression rod itself), think an alignment is still necessary?
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
I have some ES compression rod bushings right now, but I'm thinking i'm going to put brand new, revised OEM ones in. I think these are affecting ride quality (mainly through the steering system).
Second: yes, you will absolutely need an alignment. You have to tear apart the front end and your toe will be heavily out of spec. I mean think about it, hitting a pot hole can knock off your alignment, obviously tearing apart the front end will require a realignment. I strongly urge everyone who owns a G35 or 350z to invest in a lifetime alignment if you want to save money. You will use it often and save your tires.
um NO u dont tear apart the whole front end for replace the bushing. My mechanic which is a personal friend did my bushings and said whoever told me that i need a an alignment is out to get my $. He replaced BOTH my bushings. My car does not shake or pull left or right and steering wheel is centered. My car is perfectly fine after bushings was replaced as far alignment. If you dont mind blowing 150 for an alignment be my guest
First of all how do you plan to remove the bushing without removing the rod? Have you a magic wand?
Second: yes, you will absolutely need an alignment. You have to tear apart the front end and your toe will be heavily out of spec. I mean think about it, hitting a pot hole can knock off your alignment, obviously tearing apart the front end will require a realignment. I strongly urge everyone who owns a G35 or 350z to invest in a lifetime alignment if you want to save money. You will use it often and save your tires.
Second: yes, you will absolutely need an alignment. You have to tear apart the front end and your toe will be heavily out of spec. I mean think about it, hitting a pot hole can knock off your alignment, obviously tearing apart the front end will require a realignment. I strongly urge everyone who owns a G35 or 350z to invest in a lifetime alignment if you want to save money. You will use it often and save your tires.
When I had my old, creaking ones replaced with the ES ones, the shop did it with the compression rod on the car. I didn't watch them do it, but I imagine they just loosened some bolts, put some tools on there and pressed it out. Not rocket science.
Replacing the ES ones with OEM ones should be even easier, I imagine. The ES ones would probably come out with a screwdriver and a hammer and the new ones should go in easily as well.
You are right about one thing, though: The lifetime alignment is the way to go. ~$160 or so at Firestone IIRC.
Magic wand? It's called skills, son.
When I had my old, creaking ones replaced with the ES ones, the shop did it with the compression rod on the car. I didn't watch them do it, but I imagine they just loosened some bolts, put some tools on there and pressed it out. Not rocket science.
Replacing the ES ones with OEM ones should be even easier, I imagine. The ES ones would probably come out with a screwdriver and a hammer and the new ones should go in easily as well.
You are right about one thing, though: The lifetime alignment is the way to go. ~$160 or so at Firestone IIRC.
When I had my old, creaking ones replaced with the ES ones, the shop did it with the compression rod on the car. I didn't watch them do it, but I imagine they just loosened some bolts, put some tools on there and pressed it out. Not rocket science.
Replacing the ES ones with OEM ones should be even easier, I imagine. The ES ones would probably come out with a screwdriver and a hammer and the new ones should go in easily as well.
You are right about one thing, though: The lifetime alignment is the way to go. ~$160 or so at Firestone IIRC.
Do you even know the process? Hell no you aren't getting it out with a screwdriver! Haha! You have to remove the lower control arm, remove the sub frame (which is the only thing holding the rod to the car btw) and then put the rod in a press (cuz you need about 6+ tons of pressure to get them out) to press out the bushing. You can't do it with it on the car. The whole process of taking the control arm and subframe off automatically makes the c-rod fall off. Like...I don't even know what you're trying to tell me.
And yes you WILL need an alignment. You don't have to get one but when yer tires are gone in 10000 miles, you'll be wishing you listened.
P.s. I have actually done this myself not just imagined what my mechanic was doing.
Haha you have a wild imagination. If its so easy why didn't you do it yourself?
Do you even know the process? Hell no you aren't getting it out with a screwdriver! Haha! You have to remove the lower control arm, remove the sub frame (which is the only thing holding the rod to the car btw) and then put the rod in a press (cuz you need about 6+ tons of pressure to get them out) to press out the bushing. You can't do it with it on the car. The whole process of taking the control arm and subframe off automatically makes the c-rod fall off. Like...I don't even know what you're trying to tell me.
And yes you WILL need an alignment. You don't have to get one but when yer tires are gone in 10000 miles, you'll be wishing you listened.
P.s. I have actually done this myself not just imagined what my mechanic was doing.
Do you even know the process? Hell no you aren't getting it out with a screwdriver! Haha! You have to remove the lower control arm, remove the sub frame (which is the only thing holding the rod to the car btw) and then put the rod in a press (cuz you need about 6+ tons of pressure to get them out) to press out the bushing. You can't do it with it on the car. The whole process of taking the control arm and subframe off automatically makes the c-rod fall off. Like...I don't even know what you're trying to tell me.
And yes you WILL need an alignment. You don't have to get one but when yer tires are gone in 10000 miles, you'll be wishing you listened.
P.s. I have actually done this myself not just imagined what my mechanic was doing.
2. You obviously didn't read what I just said regarding the screwdriver. I was talking about removing the ES ones...not the OEM ones. I think you need to quit trolling and read before you post something.
3. Regarding the process you're talking about, I agree with you on the alignment. That's a crapload of important stuff that you would remove, and i'd recommend an alignment after something like that. Luckily for everyone on the forum (except for you), we know that there is a better way to go about replacing the bushing if that's all you need to replace.
Quit talking like i'm the only one here who knows you don't have to remove the whole thing to replace the bushing. Use the search button if you want to read more about it. I am under no obligation to prove it to you, especially with the attitude you're bringing to the discussion.



