Anyone purchase a G35 on the employee "family plan"?
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Originally Posted by mhollinger
Now my only other thing is to see if I can find out what the going rate is in the Signature Graduate program... The rate I've been offered is 2.9% for a 48 or 60 month loan (1.9% for 24 or 36 months). I have the feeling that the signature grad rate is probably the same rate, or possibly even higher. Anyone have recent experience with that?
~ Mike
Oh, and you might want to go shopping today - unless they extend it, the current 2.9% deal expires Monday. I got that rate last Saturday; it's so nice to look at a huge principal amount and see how little interest I'll end up paying over the life of the loan.
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From: Post Falls, ID
I have been shopping finance rates too and it seems that the dealership's 2.9% is the bomb, if one can qualify. It is a good 2% lower than my credit union or any of those online places like capital one, e-loan, etc...
I've read about that VPP restriction alot lately, so I hope I am not in for a rude surprise! But, I know good deals are out there even without it.
I've read about that VPP restriction alot lately, so I hope I am not in for a rude surprise! But, I know good deals are out there even without it.
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Originally Posted by LameLefty
Unless you already have a really good, established credit history, the Signature Grad rate will probably be higher than the current special. I've used new graduate plans before and the rates are usually better than the generally-available rates from banks and credit unions, but no better than the current best deal otherwise from the financing company.
Oh, and you might want to go shopping today - unless they extend it, the current 2.9% deal expires Monday. I got that rate last Saturday; it's so nice to look at a huge principal amount and see how little interest I'll end up paying over the life of the loan.
Oh, and you might want to go shopping today - unless they extend it, the current 2.9% deal expires Monday. I got that rate last Saturday; it's so nice to look at a huge principal amount and see how little interest I'll end up paying over the life of the loan.
I suppose if I got the deferred payment I would feel a little more comfortable with buying it right now, but only marginally so. I know this is a slim chance, but between now and June when I start my job, something Really Bad could happen that might cause my job to evaporate from under me, which would leave me saddled with a $450 -> $550 monthly debt while I search for a new job, which is probably not a good thing.
Now, if someone can talk me into it by Monday...
~ Mike
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From: Post Falls, ID
I think you are just being responsible mhollinger! I wish I had such restraint :-)
Not sure I would want to talk you into it when you are not ready. There will be other incentives come June. Keep the credit score high and you will have the upper hand when you are ready.
Not sure I would want to talk you into it when you are not ready. There will be other incentives come June. Keep the credit score high and you will have the upper hand when you are ready.
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Mike/mhollinger -
That's a tremendously-responsible attitude. I wish I had it, especially just out of college. Heck, I didn't have it when I graduated from law school, either!
Just FYI, for those considering buying this weekend - 2.9% APR is incredibly cheap - it's by far the best rate I've ever gotten on a car. A $550/month payment will buy you a $32,518 car - consider, however, that this amount must include tax, title, and license unless you pay cash for those items. In my state (TN), you are subject to a 7% tax on the difference between the purchase price of the new car and the trade-in value of anything you're trading in (if applcable), plus a higher single-rate tax in the first $1,600 (which adds in another $44 in sales tax). In my case, even with direct-employee VPP pricing (father-in-law is a mid-level manager for Nissan North America at the Smyrna plant), and with about $3,500 trade-in on my wife's old Sentra, I still paid almost $2,100 in sales tax which had to be added onto the purchase price.
But anyway, at 2.9% and 60 months, to guesstimate your monthly payment, count on a hair under $17 per $1,000 borrowed. Hope this helps.
That's a tremendously-responsible attitude. I wish I had it, especially just out of college. Heck, I didn't have it when I graduated from law school, either!
Just FYI, for those considering buying this weekend - 2.9% APR is incredibly cheap - it's by far the best rate I've ever gotten on a car. A $550/month payment will buy you a $32,518 car - consider, however, that this amount must include tax, title, and license unless you pay cash for those items. In my state (TN), you are subject to a 7% tax on the difference between the purchase price of the new car and the trade-in value of anything you're trading in (if applcable), plus a higher single-rate tax in the first $1,600 (which adds in another $44 in sales tax). In my case, even with direct-employee VPP pricing (father-in-law is a mid-level manager for Nissan North America at the Smyrna plant), and with about $3,500 trade-in on my wife's old Sentra, I still paid almost $2,100 in sales tax which had to be added onto the purchase price.
But anyway, at 2.9% and 60 months, to guesstimate your monthly payment, count on a hair under $17 per $1,000 borrowed. Hope this helps.
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From: ATX
Originally Posted by emtownsend
I've read about that VPP restriction alot lately, so I hope I am not in for a rude surprise!
I used the pre-qualification on the Infiniti website...
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Originally Posted by LameLefty
Mike/mhollinger -
That's a tremendously-responsible attitude. I wish I had it, especially just out of college. Heck, I didn't have it when I graduated from law school, either!
Just FYI, for those considering buying this weekend - 2.9% APR is incredibly cheap - it's by far the best rate I've ever gotten on a car. A $550/month payment will buy you a $32,518 car - consider, however, that this amount must include tax, title, and license unless you pay cash for those items. In my state (TN), you are subject to a 7% tax on the difference between the purchase price of the new car and the trade-in value of anything you're trading in (if applcable), plus a higher single-rate tax in the first $1,600 (which adds in another $44 in sales tax). In my case, even with direct-employee VPP pricing (father-in-law is a mid-level manager for Nissan North America at the Smyrna plant), and with about $3,500 trade-in on my wife's old Sentra, I still paid almost $2,100 in sales tax which had to be added onto the purchase price.
But anyway, at 2.9% and 60 months, to guesstimate your monthly payment, count on a hair under $17 per $1,000 borrowed. Hope this helps.
That's a tremendously-responsible attitude. I wish I had it, especially just out of college. Heck, I didn't have it when I graduated from law school, either!
Just FYI, for those considering buying this weekend - 2.9% APR is incredibly cheap - it's by far the best rate I've ever gotten on a car. A $550/month payment will buy you a $32,518 car - consider, however, that this amount must include tax, title, and license unless you pay cash for those items. In my state (TN), you are subject to a 7% tax on the difference between the purchase price of the new car and the trade-in value of anything you're trading in (if applcable), plus a higher single-rate tax in the first $1,600 (which adds in another $44 in sales tax). In my case, even with direct-employee VPP pricing (father-in-law is a mid-level manager for Nissan North America at the Smyrna plant), and with about $3,500 trade-in on my wife's old Sentra, I still paid almost $2,100 in sales tax which had to be added onto the purchase price.
But anyway, at 2.9% and 60 months, to guesstimate your monthly payment, count on a hair under $17 per $1,000 borrowed. Hope this helps.
But I digress...I'm in TN as well. The tax isn't so bad, though it's higher than the tax I'll have to pay in Texas when I move down there in June (6.25% iirc). I actually just went to fill out the preapproval form from IFS's website, and decided I have another reason (albeit a possibly spurious one) for not going forward until I'm closer to my start date for my new job. The form asks for Annual wages, and there's no way I can say "this is how much I WILL be making in 3.5 months, please trust me."
My current income is less than 1/3 of what my new income will be in June and if I were to take on a $550 car note, my "ideal budget" would be blasted to space because I'd end up spending about 45% of my income on rent and a car loan combined, not including spending around double the recommended 4% on insurance. I could get away with it because I'll be getting a fairly large relocation bonus in about 3 weeks (essentially an early signing bonus to help with mundane stuff like application fees on apartments or the hundred other little things that come up) but I probably need the money to buy a few things, say, a Washer and Dryer.
I really wouldn't even be having this argument with myself if my true sign-on bonus was paid before I started my job, but I can see why they really wouldn't do that -- giving someone a combined $10,000 when they're still in college seems like it might introduce... problems... like purchasing new cars, or other toys. I guess that's why they don't do it. *sigh*
By the way Lefty, you aren't the sales associate I've had the pleasure of speaking with at Infiniti of Memphis are you? He was a lefty (I noticed because I'm left-handed too).
Out of curiosity, how much was the "title and licensing" part of your "tax, title, and licensing?" Around $1000? I'm guestimating off of the table shown on this TDOT page. We really should start using tollbooths and tax the heck out of interstate travel... sheesh! 3% of the sale price for "highway use tax!" That's quite literally highway robbery!
~ Mike
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Nah, I'm an attorney in Murfreesboro. There are a two of us in this area driving G35's - one of my friends has had a 2003 since they were introduced and I know he loves his, still. He's jealous of mine now, though. I've only seen a couple coupes in the area - more 350Z's than G35C's, that's for sure! - and only one or two other G35 sedans besides mine and my friends. A few FX's, though. We'll probably get one of those for my wife in a couple of years. I guess that's because the nearest dealer is 45 minutes away and the next two are 75 minutes (Chattanooga) and 90 minutes-plus (Huntsville) away.
Title and license were only a couple hundred bucks, actually. That 3% use tax figure you have came from an NCDOT (North Carolina!) page, not a TDOT (Tennessee) page. Of course, most dealers try to tack on an arbitrary paperwork handling fee that you can either fight about or pay, depending on what your inclination is - I paid it, because it wasn't too high and I didn't want to have to make a couple 45 mile round trips to the dealer from my home county to run paperwork around like a clerk.
Oh, as for washers and dryers and stuff like that - do the smart thing and apply for Lowe's, Home Depot and/or Sears cards and buy those things on the 90 days same as cash deals that most of them offer - Lowe's does it for every purchase of $299 or more - sometimes they give you a year or more interest-free. In fact, I just now saw a commercial for Home Depot doing a year interest-free on purchases of $299 or more, too. Pay them off at the end of the grace period unless a catastrophe occurs and you need the cash in the meantime, and even if one DOES occur, you'll only have small month payments and the use of the appliances until the crisis passes and you CAN pay them off. It's a good plan and will do more than merely keep your 760's credit score - it builds a wide-based credit history that you'll need somewhere down the line. And best of all, it lets you use someone else's money for next to nothing.
Title and license were only a couple hundred bucks, actually. That 3% use tax figure you have came from an NCDOT (North Carolina!) page, not a TDOT (Tennessee) page.
Of course, most dealers try to tack on an arbitrary paperwork handling fee that you can either fight about or pay, depending on what your inclination is - I paid it, because it wasn't too high and I didn't want to have to make a couple 45 mile round trips to the dealer from my home county to run paperwork around like a clerk.Oh, as for washers and dryers and stuff like that - do the smart thing and apply for Lowe's, Home Depot and/or Sears cards and buy those things on the 90 days same as cash deals that most of them offer - Lowe's does it for every purchase of $299 or more - sometimes they give you a year or more interest-free. In fact, I just now saw a commercial for Home Depot doing a year interest-free on purchases of $299 or more, too. Pay them off at the end of the grace period unless a catastrophe occurs and you need the cash in the meantime, and even if one DOES occur, you'll only have small month payments and the use of the appliances until the crisis passes and you CAN pay them off. It's a good plan and will do more than merely keep your 760's credit score - it builds a wide-based credit history that you'll need somewhere down the line. And best of all, it lets you use someone else's money for next to nothing.
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Originally Posted by LameLefty
Title and license were only a couple hundred bucks, actually. That 3% use tax figure you have came from an NCDOT (North Carolina!) page, not a TDOT (Tennessee) page. Of course, most dealers try to tack on an arbitrary paperwork handling fee that you can either fight about or pay, depending on what your inclination is - I paid it, because it wasn't too high and I didn't want to have to make a couple 45 mile round trips to the dealer from my home county to run paperwork around like a clerk.
Oh, as for washers and dryers and stuff like that - do the smart thing and apply for Lowe's, Home Depot and/or Sears cards and buy those things on the 90 days same as cash deals that most of them offer - Lowe's does it for every purchase of $299 or more - sometimes they give you a year or more interest-free. In fact, I just now saw a commercial for Home Depot doing a year interest-free on purchases of $299 or more, too. Pay them off at the end of the grace period unless a catastrophe occurs and you need the cash in the meantime, and even if one DOES occur, you'll only have small month payments and the use of the appliances until the crisis passes and you CAN pay them off. It's a good plan and will do more than merely keep your 760's credit score - it builds a wide-based credit history that you'll need somewhere down the line. And best of all, it lets you use someone else's money for next to nothing.
Of course, most dealers try to tack on an arbitrary paperwork handling fee that you can either fight about or pay, depending on what your inclination is - I paid it, because it wasn't too high and I didn't want to have to make a couple 45 mile round trips to the dealer from my home county to run paperwork around like a clerk.Oh, as for washers and dryers and stuff like that - do the smart thing and apply for Lowe's, Home Depot and/or Sears cards and buy those things on the 90 days same as cash deals that most of them offer - Lowe's does it for every purchase of $299 or more - sometimes they give you a year or more interest-free. In fact, I just now saw a commercial for Home Depot doing a year interest-free on purchases of $299 or more, too. Pay them off at the end of the grace period unless a catastrophe occurs and you need the cash in the meantime, and even if one DOES occur, you'll only have small month payments and the use of the appliances until the crisis passes and you CAN pay them off. It's a good plan and will do more than merely keep your 760's credit score - it builds a wide-based credit history that you'll need somewhere down the line. And best of all, it lets you use someone else's money for next to nothing.
Thanks for the advice on the Lowe's / Home Depot / Sears cards! I've never so much as considered using one of those -- that's a great idea! In fact if I do it right, I might be able to furnish an entire apartment with one of those cards from the right store, and then go stick the $$ that I would have used to pay for it in a Money Market or CD or something... yay for free money!
~ Mike
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From: ATX
I used to live in Nashville many years ago, and now live in Austin.
Another secret to the moving thing - when you fill out your change of address form for the postal service, they give your address to Home Depot and Lowe's - who will both send you 10% off coupons for your first purchase at their stores - I saved a lot on appliances that I needed to purchase. Plus, they are pretty good about price-matching local appliance dealers - so you do have some "wiggle room" on their in-store pricing.
Another secret to the moving thing - when you fill out your change of address form for the postal service, they give your address to Home Depot and Lowe's - who will both send you 10% off coupons for your first purchase at their stores - I saved a lot on appliances that I needed to purchase. Plus, they are pretty good about price-matching local appliance dealers - so you do have some "wiggle room" on their in-store pricing.
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