Step 1: remove muffler and flange bolts etc

Step 2: remove flange if possible and cut exhaust at the lip where the flange previously was

Step 3: obtain a 2.5" ID exhaust pipe, weld this to the muffler side pipe

Step 4: cut 2 slits about 1.5" deep into the pipe on either side to allow the pipe to compress and seal when the exhaust clamp is tightened

Step 5: reattach muffler, side pipe over, tighten exhaust clamp. Done

**If you don't have access to a welder, cut 2 more slits on the other side and use another exhaust clamp**

*Cost under $10.00*

 

Not sure it'll last through winter, but he'll yeah haha.

 

And why wouldn't it last through winter?? ...

 

Not sure if I would do this as it LOOKS like it cost under $10.

 

Does Canada have inspections? I doubt that would pass the sniffer wand leak test at inspection time around here. We have pretty lax inspections in Mo and don't require emissions testing in my city but they are pretty strict on exhaust leaks. If your flange rotted off your piping is probably just as bad.

 

Canada doesn't have any inspections whatsoever. At least in Alberta, infact I think the only time your car is subject to a inspection is if you try to register it in another province, sometimes insurance asks on older cars but not all companies do, and it's for safety, not emissions

Sure the weld ain't pretty and we did it quick. But there's no audible sign of leakage.

The pipe is also totally fine the whole way through. I had to cut the lip off the pipe and the metal is solid whole way through. If the weld ever cracks I'll just cut 2 slits and throw a hose clamp over it or do a better weld.. no use spending more money on a almost 16year old car when this does the job perfectly fine

 

The flange also wasn't rotted. It was the weld into the flange. Straight detached, not rotting

 

However if you don't happen to have a welder, drop by your local muffler shop and have them do the right job using the best equipment!
Gary

 

I think everyone who is reading this is missing the fact that this is a cheap fix, (& only posted to help people) I don't give a damn for your critiques. Your engine is gonna blow or the exhaust pipe will rot completely before it fails.

If you don't have emissions testing, access to a welder, and dont wanna put money into an old car, spend 10bucks and an hour of your time to do a fix that will work perfectly fine. If you wanna spend more money or have it look "pristine" go right ahead .... or if you'd rather be an a** hole go right ahead too

 

 

could anyone help me out I have a 2007 g35x sedan and I had codes p0300 and p0021, so I changed my PCV valve and the p0021 seemed to go away...for now at least.. I tried to get the VVT out to clean it and inspect it but theres 2 hoses in the way that theres so way it will come out so if anyone could tell me how I can? back to it the p0021 went away but still p0300 I checked all coil packs and the one closes back to the passenger was covered in oil with oil all around the plug what could this be what should I get next or change?

 

bruh.

 

Jonah- this is not how forums work. Multiple copy and paste posts into random threads isn't going to get you an answer, it's just going to annoy people. Pick an appropriate sub-forum and post it once. It will be seen.

 

Throw the entire exhaust away and buy aftermarket. I just did lol. The Y and heat shields rust out next. 525 bucks get ya res TPs, Y and mid/rear section.

 

Not sure why you are wasting your effort commenting because I just stated in detail that my exhaust has perfect integrity, its solid the entire way through.... The Heat shields were removed years ago because they rattle on every car after a few years. I'm not wasting 600 on an exhaust for a 16 year old car. Enjoy the fix (for those of you who need this) ....