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Okay... Long story that happened within a few days. I got the car about 2 weeks ago... And don't tell me the car is a piece of s*** and I got ripped off, I'm just looking for solutions. When I got the car, I knew that I needed a new intake(torn piping seal) and a new belt(car would squeak when turned on/AC turned on). When I would break, the car would feel bumpy coming from the front end and the tire pressure light would stay on. I also noticed that it would hiccup at stop lights/signs, but it wasn't too bad and wouldn't happen all the time. I figured this was because I had a torn intake piping seal. I drove with it for a few days like that before I got an Injen cold air intake, but the rough idling stayed about the same, so not too bad. Before I changed the intake, I noticed that the brake light and battery light would flicker on and off for a few seconds before staying off. This would still happen after I installed the intake. Yesterday I was driving and when I went over 80, the service light started blinking, but didn't stay on. Later that day, the battery and brake light started blinking again. I thought it was really odd since the SEL came on, but my car seemed to be driving fine. HAHA. I THOUGHT!!! When I stopped at the stop lights/signs that day, my car roughly idling so bad to the point I thought car was gonna just turn off. It felt like it was jerking. Around 9 AM this morning I was driving and when I would accelerate the brake and battery light would stay on, but when I would take my foot off the gas, they would turn off. My car was hiccuping so bad(btw don't really feel the hiccups when I accelerate, only when stopped). Later this morning I was driving and stopped at the light. When I tried accelerating, my car wouldn't accelerate, but the RPM went up. I was able to pull over to the side, but my SLIP, ABS, and VDC off lights came on. After this happened, I turned my car off, then tried turning it back on, but it wouldn't start. It cranked, and the lights would turn on, but it wouldn't start. My boyfriend charged my battery so I could move it off the side of the road and into the parking lot. I got the car started, the VDC, SLIP, and ABS lights were still on. When I started accelerating, it was fine for about 45 seconds-1 minute before the lights started blinking/flickering. I turned my car off, and now it will only crank but not start, even when I charge the battery. I tested the battery and it's fine. It looks like there's a new alternator in there already, and the battery looks new as well. No codes pop up on the OBD scanner either. I was thinking it could be the camshaft sensors or maybe the starter? Also read it could be bad fuel injectors but I wanna get second opinions before I buy anything.
UPDATE: Car is fixed! (to my knowledge) Pictures posted below. Basically there was a set of wires that weren't connected to the alternator, and that was making my car do that. I ended up having to replace the battery in the end, BUT once I put on new nuts and attached the wires, the battery was good (12.5V off, 14V on), and I was able to start the car, no problems. Not sure if the guy who sold me the car knew about this, or if he just didn't want to say anything. Probably why I got it for less than 3 though.
Look at how messed up these look!
Last edited by Isabella Curtis; Jan 2, 2020 at 07:02 PM.
Reason: update!
First, make sure ur battery connections are tight. Then check to see if ur transmission fluid isnt low. Then make sure your IPDM isnt flooded. That can cause a whole bunch of weird problems like u are describing.
Some of it sounds like what my 04' G35x was doing when the cam POS sensors went bad. The battery light could be several things, alternator, battery, battery connection. If you know the connections are good and your battery voltage is good the alternator regulator may have an issue. Check the voltage before your start it and again while running then report back with the results.
it won’t even start, regardless if ive charged the battery or not. it clicks every time i turn the key
Originally Posted by scumbagsleeper
Some of it sounds like what my 04' G35x was doing when the cam POS sensors went bad. The battery light could be several things, alternator, battery, battery connection. If you know the connections are good and your battery voltage is good the alternator regulator may have an issue. Check the voltage before your start it and again while running then report back with the results.
Got a new battery because auto zone said the other was drained and just dead. The car started with the new battery, so I got the alternator tested and they said the alternator was draining my battery. I tightened the belts and it helped the problem just a little bit, but when my car is on, the battery reads a low 12 volts, and off reads a high 12. The alternator looks brand new, but it was remanufactured so that could be why. Might be some fuses or sensors that I'm missing.
Connections are tight and I have transmission fluid. Checked the IPDM as well, and those were fine. Starter is fine too. Might be the regulator tbh because the alternator is brand new. The alternator is definitely draining my battery though.
Not unheard of for a reman alternator to be bad right out of the box.
found out what happened.. the guy who sold me the car apparently didn't know how to fix it, because he just replaced the alternator and battery when it was really a wire that connects to the alternator.
Ended up fixing the car! Only took 5 hours and a whole bunch of cussing lol. But, pics and how I fixed it are above! Thank y'all! I had a feeling it was something to do with the alternator, just glad I didn't have to buy a whole bunch of things!
There were some wires that were supposed to be connected to the alternator, but they were on there super shitty so it was making my car go wonk. I've been driving it and no lights have come on, but it does still hiccup and now I have a cracked radiator.
