There's a G35X that I'm interested in for just 2600 Canadian rubles (=2000 USD) that has a few problems and I'm wondering if it's worth my trouble. I wanted to see if anyone has any general suggestions for things to check beyond normal buying used cars tips (I mean I might as well take those as well though).

Some details:

• The car has 250k km (= 155k miles) on it.
• `P0462` - Fuel level Sensor A circuit low input
• Rusted hole in the trunk

I enjoy fixing things myself and I think the fuel sensor just needs cleaning which I'm thinking I could do myself and if it's not that I could easily replace the assembly. As for the hole in the trunk I'm think I could replace that as well with a bit of elbow grease. Is this worth taking a look at or am I in for a lot of costly repairs at this high of kms and is there anything specific that I should be on the lookout for?

If the oil and fluids have been changed regularly, the powertrain should be pretty healthy. VQ's are a durable and reliable platform, though can burn oil when they get up there in the miles, so take note on the oil level/condition. They do tend to tick with the higjer miles in my experience, nothing to really worry about. Check the coolant level, make sure the trans fluid isn't burnt, shifts are good when the car is both cold and at operating temp. Make sure the heater works at idle, if not could be an air pocket in the cooling system. Not hard to fix, just take note of this for future ref.
FYI the fuel tank on these cars has a hump over the driveshaft, so they have two fuel level sensors. They aren't hard to get to, but can be a little pricey as I remember.
I've heard/seen online that the X's can have issues with the front driveshaft u-joints failing. Considering the car already has rust, I'd try to check this prior to purchase.
These cars are more expensive than a Honda or Toyota to maintain/repair. Lots of suspension is aluminum vs steel for weight savings. But, they handle and perform much better in my opinion.

Sensors are $125 each roughly USD. But cleaning will fix it sometimes

Driver side you can easily replace yourself. The passenger side, has the whole fuel pump assembly, so a little harder but not impossible for a DIY

Thanks for the tips everybody, I walked away from the deal because of the leaky exhaust (load), bad wheel bearing, and the general need for frontend suspension work.

I had that same code last summer from someone trying to siphon gas out of my tank, they pushed the hose in so far it twisted back up and wedged my float arm up higher than it should normally go. Removed the sub-pump and swung it back down, probably solved.

Keep in mind that ANY sports car with that kind of mileage is going to need basically every suspension component replaced if they haven't been done already. Price you pay for performance, parts wear out quicker.