P1283 - Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 (Bank 2) lean shift
#1
P1283 - Air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor 1 (Bank 2) lean shift
This is a little more technical then what I’m used to in a while. My 2005 Infiniti G35x with 71k has been having a on and off CEL for the past month. P1283- Air fuel ratio sensor 1 lean shift- bank2.
It comes and goes, like I can drive 100 miles and it would never light up and I can go 15 miles and its always on. Car runs great. MPG seems to drop about .5 MPG but then again its winter blend fuel time. I didn’t see the CEL for almost 2 tanks of gas (300 miles per tank), then I filled up with a tank of Sam’s club gas. Within 10 miles, it was on with the same fault. And it would repeat say every 15-25 miles. I ran down that tank instantly and got to Mobil. Full tanked it on 93 octane, it was good for the first 100 miles and now it’s back again. Here is a kicker, it will set the readiness code almost everytime! So I can still pass emissions in my state pending on time I take it in.
I have an android phone with the torque app, so I set it to graph the both front 02 sensors. First thing I see is bank 1 being at 0.3volts and bank2 being at 0.5v. I take it for a drive to watch the voltage to see if I have one of those LAZY sensors. Aside from the difference in voltage I noticed bank 2 would spike up more than bank 1 and in most cases it would hit .9-1.2v and the most bank 1 would hit is .7v, this is me gunning it and letting off.
I assume me letting off triggers the lean condition and the higher voltage is leaner and lower voltage is richer.
Would it be safe to say I have a soon to be dead bank2 sensor? Is there any testing I can or should do? I always thought .5v was a good idle voltage and not .3v
It comes and goes, like I can drive 100 miles and it would never light up and I can go 15 miles and its always on. Car runs great. MPG seems to drop about .5 MPG but then again its winter blend fuel time. I didn’t see the CEL for almost 2 tanks of gas (300 miles per tank), then I filled up with a tank of Sam’s club gas. Within 10 miles, it was on with the same fault. And it would repeat say every 15-25 miles. I ran down that tank instantly and got to Mobil. Full tanked it on 93 octane, it was good for the first 100 miles and now it’s back again. Here is a kicker, it will set the readiness code almost everytime! So I can still pass emissions in my state pending on time I take it in.
I have an android phone with the torque app, so I set it to graph the both front 02 sensors. First thing I see is bank 1 being at 0.3volts and bank2 being at 0.5v. I take it for a drive to watch the voltage to see if I have one of those LAZY sensors. Aside from the difference in voltage I noticed bank 2 would spike up more than bank 1 and in most cases it would hit .9-1.2v and the most bank 1 would hit is .7v, this is me gunning it and letting off.
I assume me letting off triggers the lean condition and the higher voltage is leaner and lower voltage is richer.
Would it be safe to say I have a soon to be dead bank2 sensor? Is there any testing I can or should do? I always thought .5v was a good idle voltage and not .3v
#2
06G Coupe with almost the exact same indications.
I am seeing almost exactly the same indications from my G's A/F ratio sensors. I have a pretty much bone stock 06 G Coupe Auto at around 92K miles. I have had NO CEL indications what so ever (no fault codes either), however my Bank 1 A/F is at .3 volts during normal cruising while the Bank 2 sensor reads .6 volts. Both of the downstream o2 sensors read about .8 volts. During deceleration, both o2's drop to zero volts while the Bank1 A/F rises to .7 to .9 and the Bank2 A/F rises to 1.1 to 1.3 volts. Again that left sensor is about .3 to .4 volts lower while the o2's read the same. WTF this cannot be normal.
Oh and to add to this I have the usual annoying light throttle ping coming from my engine, regardless of the fact that I am using 93 octane. One thing I have noticed is that the ping doesn't seem to exist until the torque convertor locks up, therefore adding additional load to the engine. Also par the usual these engines don't knock until sufficient heat soak has reared its ugly head. I'm wondering who else on here has the same odd difference on their A/F sensors with no CEL/codes and no discernible powertrain issues besides the ping? If the A/F sensor voltage imbalance is an issue what is causing this?
As I have seen from experience just because your Oxygen sensors are not reading correctly does not mean one or both bank's sensors are bad. There are other sensors directly related to fuel delivery, the MAF for one.
Has anyone with the pinging tried having their fuel injectors pulled and bench cleaned? With the crap they put in gas these days who knows what kind of residue gets left behind. In tank treatments are worthless and do more harm than good, the ones that hook up to your fuel rails are, from what I have heard, worse as these can break the junk apart in your injectors and cause them to lodge somewhere more critical thus making the spray pattern worse.
If anyone has any thoughts about this lets hear them.....
Oh and to add to this I have the usual annoying light throttle ping coming from my engine, regardless of the fact that I am using 93 octane. One thing I have noticed is that the ping doesn't seem to exist until the torque convertor locks up, therefore adding additional load to the engine. Also par the usual these engines don't knock until sufficient heat soak has reared its ugly head. I'm wondering who else on here has the same odd difference on their A/F sensors with no CEL/codes and no discernible powertrain issues besides the ping? If the A/F sensor voltage imbalance is an issue what is causing this?
As I have seen from experience just because your Oxygen sensors are not reading correctly does not mean one or both bank's sensors are bad. There are other sensors directly related to fuel delivery, the MAF for one.
Has anyone with the pinging tried having their fuel injectors pulled and bench cleaned? With the crap they put in gas these days who knows what kind of residue gets left behind. In tank treatments are worthless and do more harm than good, the ones that hook up to your fuel rails are, from what I have heard, worse as these can break the junk apart in your injectors and cause them to lodge somewhere more critical thus making the spray pattern worse.
If anyone has any thoughts about this lets hear them.....
#5
My G sedan is at 105k with ART Pipes, a Borla exhaust, and a Stillen intake. I just ran a code check this morning and it returned this. I'm in the same boat as you; car runs perfectly fine, no noticeable decrease in mpg. I get my gas from the same place and only got a CEL maybe a week ago. I haven't done any voltage testing yet though. Is anything actually like fatally wrong here?
Last edited by RockyR87; 04-22-2013 at 10:47 PM.
#6
I drove ttrank's car solo
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
#7
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#9
What about this a/f alpha readings? I'm pretty sure that the A/F's shouldn't be reading .3-.5 volts difference from one another for any reason. So what is going on here, is the Bank 2 sensor improperly registering Bank 2 as rich and the ECU is leaning it out causing the ping? What are the A/F's supposed to register with the engine fully warmed at cruising speed, at light throttle.......Is this a possibly unknown issue with the G and pinging, as far as a/f sensor imbalance or lean bank possibly being the culprit?
Would this Osiris tune help with that or is this one of those issues that needs to be "fixed" first? Mind you I have never seen any check engine light on this car except for an idle out of threshold or whatever and that was because I didn't move the car for a month, instead I ran the engine every week to keep the engine from drying oil of all of the parts (yes I know this is kind of silly), I think that pissed off the ECU into thinking something was wrong with the APP sensor.....
Would this Osiris tune help with that or is this one of those issues that needs to be "fixed" first? Mind you I have never seen any check engine light on this car except for an idle out of threshold or whatever and that was because I didn't move the car for a month, instead I ran the engine every week to keep the engine from drying oil of all of the parts (yes I know this is kind of silly), I think that pissed off the ECU into thinking something was wrong with the APP sensor.....
#10
Premier Member
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What about this a/f alpha readings? I'm pretty sure that the A/F's shouldn't be reading .3-.5 volts difference from one another for any reason. So what is going on here, is the Bank 2 sensor improperly registering Bank 2 as rich and the ECU is leaning it out causing the ping? What are the A/F's supposed to register with the engine fully warmed at cruising speed, at light throttle.......Is this a possibly unknown issue with the G and pinging, as far as a/f sensor imbalance or lean bank possibly being the culprit?
Would this Osiris tune help with that or is this one of those issues that needs to be "fixed" first? Mind you I have never seen any check engine light on this car except for an idle out of threshold or whatever and that was because I didn't move the car for a month, instead I ran the engine every week to keep the engine from drying oil of all of the parts (yes I know this is kind of silly), I think that pissed off the ECU into thinking something was wrong with the APP sensor.....
Would this Osiris tune help with that or is this one of those issues that needs to be "fixed" first? Mind you I have never seen any check engine light on this car except for an idle out of threshold or whatever and that was because I didn't move the car for a month, instead I ran the engine every week to keep the engine from drying oil of all of the parts (yes I know this is kind of silly), I think that pissed off the ECU into thinking something was wrong with the APP sensor.....
#11
This is a little more technical then what I’m used to in a while. My 2005 Infiniti G35x with 71k has been having a on and off CEL for the past month. P1283- Air fuel ratio sensor 1 lean shift- bank2.
It comes and goes, like I can drive 100 miles and it would never light up and I can go 15 miles and its always on.
It comes and goes, like I can drive 100 miles and it would never light up and I can go 15 miles and its always on.
-r
#13
Hey BytheBay! First thank you so much for your videos and posts!!! Seriously thank you! changed my plugs, pcv, both camshaft pos sensors. HUGE amount of help!!! So great. Ok, seems like everything is leading to that sensor. My code poppin up is P1273 but think it's same. Embarrassing question... is AF sensor same as the O2 sensor?? Ok really tks again! I and many others owe you.
#14
Hey BytheBay! First thank you so much for your videos and posts!!! Seriously thank you! changed my plugs, pcv, both camshaft pos sensors. HUGE amount of help!!! So great. Ok, seems like everything is leading to that sensor. My code poppin up is P1273 but think it's same. Embarrassing question... is AF sensor same as the O2 sensor?? Ok really tks again! I and many others owe you.
#15
Back to the top! This code came about a month or so ago and I was fairly certain the car had no leaks on intake/exhaust setup so I went to get my mods dialed in via Osiris tune at Z1. We got nice gains and everything seemed to be running good. However the 1283 an occasionally a 1273 code gets thrown for a lean shift condition. Any ideas as to how to address this considering it has appeared on both banks from time to time? I feel like it's the mods but thought the tune would take car of it. I need to run it through emissions (obd check) and need this solved. Any input is greatly appreciated. Engine related mods are rev up air box, CF Z-tube, skunk2 5/8" spacer, Megan resonated test pipes, and invidia Gemini exhaust.
All plenum bolts are tight and center bolts were sealed up. Vacuum tubes seem in tact. Intake tubing tight.
All plenum bolts are tight and center bolts were sealed up. Vacuum tubes seem in tact. Intake tubing tight.