Ok so the higher numbers are with plenum, ztube and k&n? The lower is stock?

 

No, the blue is K&N and z-tube. Red is K&N, Z-tube, and Plenum spacer

 

I can't tell the color difference. Did the plenum give you more power?

 

He gained an average of 5-10whp/wtq from 4500-7000rpms. Not bad.

 

It looks like they didn't bring it to 7200 fuel cut or the tach is off a bit. Either way it looks like shifting around 6800-7000 will give the best results for the power band. What do you think?

 

For whatever reason, VQ rev-limiters seem to change by 200rpms depending on the run and load. I've witnessed it on numerous occasions including on my own 3.0 VQ. In the posted graph, it appears they hit the limiter on the first run. The limiter appears to have been at 7000rpms.

As for shift points, I'd say right before the rev limiter. The power hardly drops once it peaks. If this VQ had a 7500rpm limiter and could sustain that kind of rpm, that would be the rpm I'd recommend to shift the 1-2, 7200rpm for the 2-3, and 7,000 for 3-4.

 

Oh please PI$$ED doesn't EVEN cover it! I SO should have been a b!tch and made him let me keep the '05 when we got it. Since it should have technically been my car at that point. The visual differences between the '04 and '05 are much less of an issue when I now have it slapping me in the face how much "less" of a car it is performance wise.

 

Technically, our G35 coupe is under my wife's name. Technically the 99 Accord Coupe is under my name. But we drive the other car. She's too afraid of the G35 now, citing that it's too loud (stock muffler), brakes too fast (Brembos), and accelerates too quickly.

When we bought the G35, we were supposed to be buying a car for her. It went from used Altima for her, to new Altima for her, to new Altima for me, to new 350z for me, to new G35 coupe for me.

I had her sit in a new M35 sedan yesterday, she loved it.

 

No offense but WTF!!! LOL!! I just truely don't understand that but apparently it works. Both our cars are in both of our names but the '05 was replacing my car at the time thus my comment that it should have been mine.

Hhhhmmm.....one of the ladies around here needs to have a chat with your wife. You must be hitting it pretty good to be pulling this one again.

 

I had the Accord before we got married. She sold her beat up camry when she graduated medical school before she moved back to Cali. Then since we needed a new car, that's how the other scenario started. I had no credit (not bad credit, just absolutely no credit), so when we bought the G35, we had to put it under her name to get the financing.

She's not into cars, but she's tired of coupes. She just wants a nice sedan. Depending on the day of the week, it could be a new Accord coupe, to a M35/45, to a BMW. The next car is definitely hers.

Then my plan is when it's my turn again for a car.... a GTR or new NSX in 2010.

Just to stay on topic, a plenum or spacer will help the top end on your sedan.

 

Ok. Let's get the opinion wars going again. LOL

What is the LEAST EXPENSIVE mod that I can do to help these numbers? I am not into spending tons of money on my car when my house needs things done to it, etc. so let's hear the overly practical options......

PLEASE no flame wars even if you disagree - I'm a big girl and I can do research if I am interested in something. If you feel really strongly about it, then PM me, k?

 

Your dyno numbers are completely normal for a stock 04 G35 5AT. There's nothing to get pissed about. I'd take great pride in knowing that your stock "260hp" 04 5AT is trapping within 1.3mph of your husband's 298hp 05 6MT. From a roll, it would be nearly neck and neck (95mph vs 96mph trap speeds). Your ETs look a bit slow, but my guess is your 60 foots aren't very good. If you can get nearly 95mph in the 1/4 with a 5AT, you need to get more aggressive with the launch and stall up that torque converter a little more. It should be easy for your car to run a 14.7-14.8 with that type of trap speed.

 

Ahhh but see here is the problem - we are EXTREMELY competitive with one another. Probably beyond the point of what is healthy I am sure.

Now as for working on the launch.....I can honestly say that I have no idea as to the "proper" way to launch an automatic. I am NOT skilled with an automatic LOL - another reason that I should have kept the '05! I would welcome some instruction as to the most effective way to launch.

Let's just get honest here - I won't be happy until I am confident that I can consistently kick his a$$ at the track. That can be better driving or a better car - I'm not picky.

 

That got me thinking so I searched around and found my most recent slip. I wish I knew what I did with the other ones .
60' - 2.278 to his 2.264
330 - 6.569 " 6.314
1/8 - 9.919 " 9.595
1/4 - 15.168 " 14.862

How do these numbers compare with what you were thinking? If I can find those other slips I will get the info off of them as well - but I am not very confident I will find them if I haven't already.

 

No problem. First thing, make sure to have 91/92 octane in the tank. Nothing less.

Show up to the track with about a 1/4 tank of gas (less weight) and remove the spare. Right there you've removed a total of about 100lbs of weight from the car. Lighter weight is far more effective than adding power. 100lbs less weight in a car like this means .1 and 1mph in the 1/4 mile.

Roll up to the line and avoid the water box. Roll very slowly to the starting line. Slowly roll forward until the prestage lights come on and STOP!!! Now creep very slowly and stop the second you see stage lights come on. What you have just done is shallow staged. This will give you 6-8" of rollout before the timers even start. This can mean the car is at 1mph before the timers start. That can potentially mean .1 and 1mph in the 1/4mph.

To launch the car, you need to stall up (ie floor the gas with the brakes on) the torque converter (TC) in the tranny. In very simple terms, think of the torque converter as a bow. The more you pull back on the string, the faster and farther the arrow will go. The higher you stall up the converter, the harder the car will launch. Like a bow, there is a limitation to how far you can pull back on it before it breaks. The TC in the G35 can only stall up to about 2400-2600rpms and you don't want to do it for any longer than a few seconds. Stalling it out too long creates a ton of heat in the tranny fluid. Infiniti says in the FSM not to stall it for any longer than 5 seconds. On a track launch, you should only have to stall it for about 2 seconds.

Manually shift the 2-3 shift and hold 3rd gear. This car shifts too early out of second if you leave it in Drive or if you pay attention to the indicated 6600rpm redline . You need to hold 2nd to an indicated 6400rpms and shift up. The tranny should then shift at an indicated 6800rpms without tapping the rev limiter.

So now, hopefully you understand what I'm saying.

1) Stage your car
2) With your foot firmly on the brake, press down on the gas so that the rpms are at 1000-1100rpms.
3) Once the yellow lights come on, mash the gas while holding the brake. The rpms should shoot to 2000rpm and then build to 2400-2600rpms.
4) The very second you see that third set of yellow lights come on, release the brake and keep the gas to the floor. This should net a good reaction time.
5) Manually shift the 2-3 and hold 3rd gear. You should tap the rev limiter in 3rd shortly after finishing the line.

People think I have some freak G35 5AT. There's nothing freak about the car. It's all in the launch and understanding how to take advantage of the race.