I thought the tornado hype was debunked.

As for the Acura rims, as was stated, they are similar but not the same as the Wedsports. Some of use just do not like the G35 sport rims.

 

It worked for me. Went from 17.6 max to 19.9 average since installing and two tanks.

 

Here's what consumer reports has to say. Really, it doesn't make sense that it would work and don't you think manufacturers would be installing them stock to bump up their MPG ratings? I think you are the only person I have heard that says it does anything. I guess if it works for you, continue to use it.
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/c...ices/index.htm

 

I can take them out tomorrow and my mileage will drop back to 17.6 in town. It increases it about 2.4 mpg average through 2 tanks. Not sure what to tell you other than don't buy one. Maybe I just had a tail wind both ways.

To your point about why the manufacturer would not install them if they worked. Do you truly believe everything the Mfg does they do to make peak HP, higher performance, better mileage or more luxury? If so, why did Infiniti put such flimsy carpet in our car or use cheap chrome plastic on the grill and deck lip trim? It would cost more that’s why. Infiniti is a for profit business. Lower cost = larger gross profit margin.

 

So you're saying that Nissan made business decision to pass on the additional 2.4 mpg EPA rating, in favor of saving about $0.07 of tin per car?

 

Tell me one thing (actually don't I bored trying to convince you) Why doesn’t Nissan make their intake tubes smooth instead of corrugated. That would save them money you would think. Right? – it at lease could not cost any more. If you buy an after market intake tube it’s smooth. Right? Smooth is more efficient in both HP and MPG. The car is rated at 19/26. I'm get about 20 now in town when I got 17.6 max before. I’ve driven very few highway miles (5 to 10 max) since putting this in. Why would I lie about that?

How does a 500 CI engine in a top fuel dragster make 8000 horsepower? Improved air flow among other things. I’m considering the purchase of a new 572 CI crate motor for a muscle car project. They make about 620. The same size motor, actually smaller make 8k in the NHRA track!! If the way it came from the factory was all you could get out of it, you would not see 4.4 second Quarter times @ 335. If you think improved airflow will not make a difference in your engine don’t waste the money. Please, do not consider it further.

 

No disrespect intended EW35, but car mfrs have to take reliability into their designs. It's the aftermarket guys and racers that trade off reliability for power. The more power you want from a given displacement engine, the less reliabilty. As you know, a 572 can put out way more than 620 horses, but it won't last as long. The 6-71 roots blown alcohol motor is torn down after every run because it is designed to the edge of self destruction for performance.

It's easy to get more power from our engines. All it takes is $$. Remember those Buick GN and GNXs ... with minor mods, those guys ran 9-10 sec 1/4 mile times then drove their 5 friends home from the races. There are even a fair share of FI V6 G35s in this forum with over 400 - 500 Hp that are considered streetable, but I haven't read much about their reliability.

I think Infiniti did an exceptional job of getting 306 Hp out of our NA 6 cyl motors. A 7,800 rpm redline was unheard of for a streetable V6 motor not so long ago without aftermarket balancing and blueprinting. I agree a smooth intake is just as inexpensive to injection mold .... but I would speculate the corrugations are needed for other manufacturability issues (to account for possible misalignments between throttle body and filter box maybe?).

I'm a little skeptical of this Vortex modification. Since we agree smooth is better, why put in a restriction that also adds turbulence rather than creating laminar flow? It's easy to show using CFD that this thing won't work. I'm not saying your gas mileage increase was not real, but there are other factors that might have played a roll. I've watched my mileage get better simply because I'm used to the gas pedal now and don't do jack rabbit starts anymore (unless I want to).

EDIT: Sorry everyione, I just noticed this long winded comment is WAY off the original topic.

 

Yawn. We can debate this all day. Lets get back to the original topic, pretty please. My non-staggered wheel will be here on Tuesday, what about yours?

 

Agreed. Which ones are you getting? Where from and how much?

 

The Sterns should look good. Make sure to post pics after the install.

 

Quick question, whats the difference between staggered and non staggered wheels?

- sean

 

Non-staggard=same wheel width fr and rr

Staggard=wider wheel in back

 

It actually make sense. These cheapy devices will restrict air flow from your intake tubes & reduce power. Your car is controlled by OE computer to run at a fixed AFR, reduced air flow will consume less fuel, therefor give you better MPG.

You could have saved the 40bucks by simply block-off one of the two intake tubes/filter on the 07, it'll save you gas as well. Just don't expect to gain hp while improve mpg at the same time.

 

I have Stern ST-1's in Chrome coming from Need for Speed Motors. They were the first wheels that caught my eye and after looking at hundreds of wheels I later came back to them. It's a tough choice; there are so many to choices and so few photos of 07 G35 Sedans with aftermarket wheels. They look a lot like PIAA Super Rozza's and also a lot like split five spokes I've seen on previous G35's, but these have a lip, rivets and are chromed. $929 In Chrome with tuners Lugs, hubcentric rings and shipping. I think I did very well on price.

Has anyone yet found a web site that shows a rendering of a 2007 G35 sedan ala, tirerack.com's "see our wheels on your car" software? Every site I've found that give you the option to see their wheels on your car only shows the G35 Sedan up to ‘06.

PS: My offset is 45mm. The stock 8.5” wheel is 50mm if I understand correctly. These will stick out about 1/4" farther than stock. I've heard many people say 35mm is ideal. To me that would make them stick out about an inch further. Is that a good look? I really don’t know if that’s too much. I hope I bought the right offset.

 

Your are correct, the stock offset for BOTH Journey and Sport is 45mm in front. Only the sport uses 50mm offest in back with the 8.5" rim. Your new wheels should center in the front the same as stock (on the hub) and be 10mm further inboard and 10mm outboard.

You may want to consider adding a spacer in the back to move the wheel/tire closer to the fender and fill out the space giving it a "wider" look.

Should look nice when you lower it too.