Straight Line Stability
#16
Originally Posted by KJC5050
I picked up my G (Journey, Premium, LP/Stone) on Saturday and am utterly thrilled with the car... except for one thing which concerns me a little bit. When driving on the Interstate - or any highway, for that matter - the car seems to lack straight line stability. By that I mean that the steering seems a little twitchy, and the car seems to wander a bit. Granted, I live in Nebraska ( ! ) and, uh, it's occasionally a just a tiny bit windy. But compared to my old TL, the car seems a bit harder to keep tracking in a straight line. Am I alone, could this be an alignment issue... or any other thoughts?
Second: My G35S is usually fine , but I have noticed it tramlining on rutted highways.
Third: have you checked tire pressure? If the backs are low, and/or the fronts high, the result is to promote oversteer, which can cause wandering. By the same token, you could try 31 psi front/35 psi rear (vs spec of 33/33), which promotes understeer, and see if it helps. Oh, and at the risk of stating the obvious, don't depend on the TPMs to tell you all tires are at correct pressure.
#17
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Originally Posted by bkrider
First, remember the TL is front drive with probably 60% of the weight on the fronts. This will help stability at the cost of terminal understeer.
Second: My G35S is usually fine , but I have noticed it tramlining on rutted highways.
Third: have you checked tire pressure? If the backs are low, and/or the fronts high, the result is to promote oversteer, which can cause wandering. By the same token, you could try 31 psi front/35 psi rear (vs spec of 33/33), which promotes understeer, and see if it helps. Oh, and at the risk of stating the obvious, don't depend on the TPMs to tell you all tires are at correct pressure.
Second: My G35S is usually fine , but I have noticed it tramlining on rutted highways.
Third: have you checked tire pressure? If the backs are low, and/or the fronts high, the result is to promote oversteer, which can cause wandering. By the same token, you could try 31 psi front/35 psi rear (vs spec of 33/33), which promotes understeer, and see if it helps. Oh, and at the risk of stating the obvious, don't depend on the TPMs to tell you all tires are at correct pressure.
kc
#19
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Originally Posted by KJC5050
Oh duh. That is so obvious... but of course I hadn't checked the pressure. I just went out (with a decent quality gauge, BTW) and 3 of the 4 tires were at about 36-37. Not huge, but who knows... I set the rears to 33 and the fronts to 32, and we'll see what it's like tomorrow. I suppose I could have the fronts at 31 with no issues. Thanks for your help...
kc
kc
#23
#24
Originally Posted by KJC5050
I picked up my G (Journey, Premium, LP/Stone) on Saturday and am utterly thrilled with the car... except for one thing which concerns me a little bit. When driving on the Interstate - or any highway, for that matter - the car seems to lack straight line stability. By that I mean that the steering seems a little twitchy, and the car seems to wander a bit. Granted, I live in Nebraska ( ! ) and, uh, it's occasionally a just a tiny bit windy. But compared to my old TL, the car seems a bit harder to keep tracking in a straight line. Am I alone, could this be an alignment issue... or any other thoughts?
#25
Originally Posted by Redhawk
I own a G35 Sport. When I had the clear bra installed, I got a Journey as a loaner. Noticed the same issue - on the same stretch of road (freeway), the steering required ongoing minor adjustments, whereas with the sport, I have perfect stability. The only difference I noticed is that the Journey had Goodyear tires, the sport has Bridgestone Potenzas. I'm thinking it's the tires, and a greater tendency to tramline with the Goodyears.
yup, I've got factory inst. goodyears
#26
a good rule of thumb is to have the car aligned for the first time after 12-15k miles. many suspension parts need to seat in to their rubber bushings and this mostly happens in the first year a car is on the road. also, you don't know if the factory settings are holding or were done properly on a recently calibration machine. one could hope, but....
here is what i do and recommend.
take car in for first 4-wheel alignment after first year or 15000 miles. ask for before and after printouts off the machine. this will also give you the ranges set by the factory (unless some kind soul is willing to post them up here on the board, hint, hint....). check the newly adjusted settings carefully. are they equal left and right and roughly in the middle of the factory settings? probably not. within range, is not equal to properly aligned. most alignment shops do not take the time to properly set caster and camber on each wheels unless you specifically request they hit a certain number. they do a think called "set the toe and let it go". that way they can do more alignments per day and make more money. some vehicles are actually quite difficult to adjust camber on. if it's within range, most shops will not mess with it even if both sides are not equal. the dealer should have the tools and procedures, but many techs aren't properly trained. you have to take control and take responsibility for making your car right.
if all settings not right, take it back and request them to do it again for free and do it right. if settings decent and car drives well, be happy. if you need additional tweeking, now you have he specs and can, for example, ask them to increase the rear camber slightly for better cornering, or increase the front caster up near the max of the range for more straight line stability. you should pay for these custom adjustments yourself. the big advantage of having the spec ranges is they can't balk because you are asking for something outside of the factory recommended range.
if you have lowered, install the correct parts necessary to allow the settings to be brought back into range. you have no room to complain if you can't attain the manufacturers suggested settings the car was originally engineered to due to installation of aftermarket parts.
here is what i do and recommend.
take car in for first 4-wheel alignment after first year or 15000 miles. ask for before and after printouts off the machine. this will also give you the ranges set by the factory (unless some kind soul is willing to post them up here on the board, hint, hint....). check the newly adjusted settings carefully. are they equal left and right and roughly in the middle of the factory settings? probably not. within range, is not equal to properly aligned. most alignment shops do not take the time to properly set caster and camber on each wheels unless you specifically request they hit a certain number. they do a think called "set the toe and let it go". that way they can do more alignments per day and make more money. some vehicles are actually quite difficult to adjust camber on. if it's within range, most shops will not mess with it even if both sides are not equal. the dealer should have the tools and procedures, but many techs aren't properly trained. you have to take control and take responsibility for making your car right.
if all settings not right, take it back and request them to do it again for free and do it right. if settings decent and car drives well, be happy. if you need additional tweeking, now you have he specs and can, for example, ask them to increase the rear camber slightly for better cornering, or increase the front caster up near the max of the range for more straight line stability. you should pay for these custom adjustments yourself. the big advantage of having the spec ranges is they can't balk because you are asking for something outside of the factory recommended range.
if you have lowered, install the correct parts necessary to allow the settings to be brought back into range. you have no room to complain if you can't attain the manufacturers suggested settings the car was originally engineered to due to installation of aftermarket parts.
#27
Originally Posted by G-Whizzer
No problems here... it was much worse with my FX and those wide tires.
On good pavement the G feels like it's not even moving.
On good pavement the G feels like it's not even moving.
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