So a buddy and I purchased the Stillen Grounding Kit, the one for $89.99. Picked it up in silver, looked sick and I was excited. Couldn't do it yesterday (which is when I got it) so I did it this morning before class. Took me about 30-60 minutes. Reason was because bolt D was a PAIN IN THE ***!!!!!! Anyways, after installing it I got huge throttle response, better shifting etc...So I pull into a In N Out because I was hungry. Roll my window down order and try to roll it back up with the automatic feature. It didn't work So I started panicking thinking my car was about to take a metaphorical dump (it didn't). So pretty much, my windows as of now only have Automatic down not up, any suggestions?

 

Reset the learning function by holding the window button down until it goes all the way down and then hold for an additional 3 seconds. Then hold the up button till the window goes all the way up and hold for an additional 3 seconds. Should be set.

 

+1 this always happens when you take off the negative terminal on your battery. At least when I did it for my grounds and intake.

 

i think it was 8 seconds tho but i could b wrong..

 

If the Stillen kit has a replacement negative battery cable you may want to remove it since that would bypass your negative battery cable current sensor used to set your charge rate on your alternator on 07s and up.

 

I think so too, I did it for 5 secs and it didn't work. So i did it for 10 sec and it worked.

 

Would there be improvement on manual G's?

 

It did not replace anything at all. Only thing different is on the negative battery terminal, you put the grounding kit on the nut that tights down the actual connection. They supply you with a new nut to put on this. So it's Nut GROUNDING KIT Nut on the connection.

And yes Rutland it helps on all types of cars, mainly on the throttle response. if you notice on all our cars before, there is about 1/6 -1/7 inch space on the throttle meaning when you push it there is little or no power. The grounding kit has fixed this ALOT and there is no delay at all on my car. I suggest buying this kit, the only issues I had with the grounding was attaching nut D. Which is behind where the coolant comes out of the engine. If you need help installing it just pop me and email and I'll send photo's on how I detached and reattached the bolts.

 

O, also another thing I noticed is that my battery was leaking some battery acid and I wanted to know if this happened to anyone else as well. it's not leaking but it seems like there is excess acid around the terminal. Is this normal? Do I need a new battery?

P.S. The voltage meter on my radar detector said a steady of 14.5V with only the radio on and 13.5V with everything on (lights, A/C, radio etc...). So it would appear it's working properly but I just want to know if the excess acid is normal.

 

yea the window is an easy fix, as described above. as for the battery leaking acid can not be good, how old is the battery? get an optium!

 

Battery is the same age as the car I believe, I don't recall Infiniti replacing my battery; Unless it was without my knowledge =\

 

Your battery terminals should look clean with no acid or corrosion build up.
Take the cable off of the terminal, clean it with a water/baking soda solution and get it looking new again. Put the cable back on and be sure it's on tight.
You should be checking your terminals on a regular basis to be sure they look clean, but this build up should not be ocurring.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_battery
Corrosion of the external metal parts of the lead-acid battery is the result of a chemical reaction of the battery terminals, lugs and connectors. It can be caused by the following:

The corrosion that one sees on the positive terminal is caused by electrolysis, due a mismatch of metal alloys used in the manufacture of the battery terminal and cable connector. White corrosion is usually lead or zinc sulfate crystals or if the connectors are made of aluminum, aluminum sulfate. If the connectors are copper, then the corrosion crystals are usually blue. One can often see both white and blue corrosion crystals, white due to the lead of the connector and the blue due to the copper in the cable. This corrosion can be minimized by applying a suitable rubber or plastic spray coating or using one of several commercially-available

If the battery is over-filled with water and electrolyte, thermal expansion can force some of the liquid electrolyte out of the battery vents onto the top of the battery. This sulfuric-acid solution can then react with the lead and other metals in the battery connector and cause corrosion. Do not over-fill batteries when adding distilled water.

There can be weeping of the electrolyte from the plastic-to-lead seal where the battery terminals penetrate the plastic case of the battery.

Acid fumes that vaporize through the vent caps, often caused by overcharging, and insufficient battery box ventilation can allow the sulfuric acid fumes to build up and cause a reaction with the exposed metals of the external battery.

 

Sounds like it just bypassed the current sensor on the original battery negative cable if the new lead attaches to the battery post.

On 07 and up Infiniti:

Consider this - You have an OEM negative battery cable from the battery to ground. On this cable is a current sensor that controls the output of the alternator which will default to a set value if current flow to the battery is not seen. Now you attach another cable from the battery to ground. If the cable was exactly the same size as OEM it would now reduce to half the current flow to the battery THAT IS SENSED by the current sensor. This in turn will change the output of the alternator. This is located on pages 8 and 9 of the 2007 G35 FSM.

While the car is running with all accessories on I measured 41 amps on the positive leads to the battery. After a couple of minutes of running time the OEM negative lead measured less than 2 amps after initially measuring around 5 immediately after the start. The reason is that the car runs off of the alternator not the battery putting the alternator as the ground reference for the system. The battery is now a load on the system with influences to the system due to its electrical characteristics (capacitance, etc.). It may be possible to use a different sensor on a new larger cable to accomodate the charging circuit (wonder what size some of the cables are from the FX50, etc.).

 

All the issues with my grounding kit are clear now. Only thing that worried me was my negative battery terminal was leaking a bit of acid, I cleaned it up with a little Diet coke and it seem fine now. Thanks for all the help guys!!

 

Did you fix the issue with the current sensor?

As far as the post leaking acid, are you sure this is the case or are you looking at normal gas off? If it is leaking acid I would be looking at a fix beyond coke or baking soda.