Time for new brakes, shocks, struts. 40k
Hello all !
been a while since i posted anything on the driver. i just hit 40k on the AWD.
it's time to replace some normal wear and tear items and i need a bit of help. i have the BBK from the Coupe installed and i need to replace the pads immediately. my rotors are also warped to sh** and i am not a fan of resurfaced rotors. so i'm in the market for new rotors and new pads. i know that there are a few aftermarket options out there from brakepros, hawk & project MU. any advice on what rotor/pad combo i should go with next? the G is my daily driver 20 miles each way to work. i am hard on my brakes and it is mostly highway miles with occasional high speed stops.
also my springs are starting to take a toll on my stock shocks & struts so i'm looking to replace them as well. are there any aftermarket replacements if so which ones are the best remembering i'm AWD.
at 40k what other things should i look to replace or fluids to change ?
thanks in advance guys.
been a while since i posted anything on the driver. i just hit 40k on the AWD.
it's time to replace some normal wear and tear items and i need a bit of help. i have the BBK from the Coupe installed and i need to replace the pads immediately. my rotors are also warped to sh** and i am not a fan of resurfaced rotors. so i'm in the market for new rotors and new pads. i know that there are a few aftermarket options out there from brakepros, hawk & project MU. any advice on what rotor/pad combo i should go with next? the G is my daily driver 20 miles each way to work. i am hard on my brakes and it is mostly highway miles with occasional high speed stops.
also my springs are starting to take a toll on my stock shocks & struts so i'm looking to replace them as well. are there any aftermarket replacements if so which ones are the best remembering i'm AWD.
at 40k what other things should i look to replace or fluids to change ?
thanks in advance guys.
Last edited by cdmorenot; Nov 15, 2009 at 05:28 PM.
The only A/M struts out there are the JDM Bilsteins, which cost MUCH more than any C/O available now. Ridiculous if you ask me.
Rotors, you're limited to OEM, Rotora, and Stoptech 1 piece rotors, and the RB 2 piece that aren't in production yet (IIRC, "supposed" to be soon). I don't know of any 2pc rotor you can buy at this time without buying a full BBK kit.
MU's are supposed to be quiet, and I had bad luck with Hawks in the past. Try checking myg37 for any pad recommendations.
Rotors, you're limited to OEM, Rotora, and Stoptech 1 piece rotors, and the RB 2 piece that aren't in production yet (IIRC, "supposed" to be soon). I don't know of any 2pc rotor you can buy at this time without buying a full BBK kit.
MU's are supposed to be quiet, and I had bad luck with Hawks in the past. Try checking myg37 for any pad recommendations.
For AWD, I think you are limited to the stock shocks....
For rotors I would go with Stoptech replacement rotors.
There are a lot of pad options, and it depends on what you want.
**From Infiniti you have the option of stock and Nismo R-tune pads (street/light track).
**From Hawk you have HPS (street), HP+ (light street/ light-med track), and Ceramic (street).
**From Project Mu you have B-force (light street/light-med. track) and Type NS (mostly steet/light track).
**There is also the Ferodo DS2500 which is a good medium duty track pad, and light street use pad.
I am not a huge fan of the Hawk pads either. I have used the HPS and HP+, and was not overly impressed with either one for various reasons. For your situation I would say stick with stock, R-tune, or the Project Mu Type NS. There is really no need for the B-force unless you are going to do some light tracking....
The best place to buy the Infiniti and Project Mu pads is Riverside Infiniti on here or their Ebay store. For the Hawk or Ferodo, the best place to buy is one of the vendors on my37.com.
For rotors I would go with Stoptech replacement rotors.
There are a lot of pad options, and it depends on what you want.
**From Infiniti you have the option of stock and Nismo R-tune pads (street/light track).
**From Hawk you have HPS (street), HP+ (light street/ light-med track), and Ceramic (street).
**From Project Mu you have B-force (light street/light-med. track) and Type NS (mostly steet/light track).
**There is also the Ferodo DS2500 which is a good medium duty track pad, and light street use pad.
I am not a huge fan of the Hawk pads either. I have used the HPS and HP+, and was not overly impressed with either one for various reasons. For your situation I would say stick with stock, R-tune, or the Project Mu Type NS. There is really no need for the B-force unless you are going to do some light tracking....
The best place to buy the Infiniti and Project Mu pads is Riverside Infiniti on here or their Ebay store. For the Hawk or Ferodo, the best place to buy is one of the vendors on my37.com.
Because i've had bad experiences with them in my previous vehicles, because i warp my rotors to ****, because i enjoy having new things and because i need an excuse to not feel bad about spending my parents money.
and no i don't replace my tank every time i run out of fuel. . . i usually go to the gas station and fill up before i run out.
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So, I'm not a fan of resurfacing rotors either.

Really haven't had warped rotors with my past cars. This is a first for me.....and I ran my cobra's ALOT harder.

The O5 is under braked. Hoping the 08 that I just bought is better.
Because i've had bad experiences with them in my previous vehicles, because i warp my rotors to ****, because i enjoy having new things and because i need an excuse to not feel bad about spending my parents money.
and no i don't replace my tank every time i run out of fuel. . . i usually go to the gas station and fill up before i run out.
and no i don't replace my tank every time i run out of fuel. . . i usually go to the gas station and fill up before i run out.
you can turn your rotors at least 3 times before they become too thin to be used.
Turning/resurfacing old rotors is actually better than using new ones. They are lighter. And once they are resurfaced they are just as good. So stop spending money on things you don't need and resurface your rotors till they are no longer can be resurfaced.
My 05 G Sedan had 30K on her and the rotors were warped. Tried to get them turned, but was told they were too warped to turn (ie out of spec if turned). In addition, I'm thinking with a thinner rotor, they are just going to warp quicker.
So, I'm not a fan of resurfacing rotors either.
Really haven't had warped rotors with my past cars. This is a first for me.....and I ran my cobra's ALOT harder.
The O5 is under braked. Hoping the 08 that I just bought is better.
So, I'm not a fan of resurfacing rotors either.

Really haven't had warped rotors with my past cars. This is a first for me.....and I ran my cobra's ALOT harder.

The O5 is under braked. Hoping the 08 that I just bought is better.
Stoptec slotted rotors I already resurfaced twice. Both times after about 30k miles.
Usually your rotor does not change shape or anything. You simply getting hot spots. And if you turn your rotor shortly after you get vibration in your brake pedal you end up with a brand new rotor. If you wait too long then your hot spots might be too big to save the rotor.
Last edited by JOKER; Dec 7, 2009 at 06:53 PM.
My thoughts are exactly.
you can turn your rotors at least 3 times before they become too thin to be used.
Turning/resurfacing old rotors is actually better than using new ones. They are lighter. And once they are resurfaced they are just as good. So stop spending money on things you don't need and resurface your rotors till they are no longer can be resurfaced.
you can turn your rotors at least 3 times before they become too thin to be used.
Turning/resurfacing old rotors is actually better than using new ones. They are lighter. And once they are resurfaced they are just as good. So stop spending money on things you don't need and resurface your rotors till they are no longer can be resurfaced.
Just a little OT here, but i just don't get how anyone can easily warp their rotors in a daily driver. I take mine to the track and i'm still on the original set of rotors with no sign of warping.
I did develop some vibration somewhere in the 30k mark, but that was addressed after i replaced the pads. Yes, the pads were the problem.
Having been on the Nissan camp for as long as i have, i have come to the conclusion that it's the pads that are the issue, not the rotors. OEM Nissan pads deposit quite a lot on the rotors, some more than others.
I did develop some vibration somewhere in the 30k mark, but that was addressed after i replaced the pads. Yes, the pads were the problem.
Having been on the Nissan camp for as long as i have, i have come to the conclusion that it's the pads that are the issue, not the rotors. OEM Nissan pads deposit quite a lot on the rotors, some more than others.
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Must be nice huh? "Mommy I need new rotors. Daddy I need a new clutch." I live in an area where all the kids are spoiled to death (Houston sub., big oil money) and everything they own is paid for. Sh.it my parents started me out with a kia sephia w/ 100k+ and i'm damn proud for the G i drive now. Dad always said, "When you're paying for it, then you'll learn how to take care of it." Seems to be the case here. He isn't paying for anything so why should he worried??




