got bored so I added some GTR
Sweet. LMK what you got in mind. I'm itching to redo the whole interior with a black/grey shade and better leather along with some pieces wrapped in alcantara
Some CF wouldn't hurt while I'm there hehe
Some CF wouldn't hurt while I'm there hehe
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
$40 and very easy install.
START STOP lights up red like the dash cluster needles. LOCK ACC and ON all light up amber like the stock button.
START STOP lights up red like the dash cluster needles. LOCK ACC and ON all light up amber like the stock button.
Last edited by bat6wc; Oct 10, 2010 at 12:25 AM.
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 2,190
Likes: 29
From: St. Louis, MO
do it!!!!
I added my GTR button couple weeks ago after waiting two months because it was on back order, and i paid $50 from the nissan dealer.
heres the pic. i coudnt get the wire to fully come out so i had to cut the plastic piece holding back the wire. other than that it was very simple
heres the pic. i coudnt get the wire to fully come out so i had to cut the plastic piece holding back the wire. other than that it was very simple
I'm just gonna post the pics in bat's thread rather than making a new one (hope you don't mind bat). If I can do a DIY showing removal of the interior panels (I doubt my hand will fit behind there with the steering wheel at the lowest point), I'll do so.
US spec part number (looks to be same as GCC spec):

Switch, front:

Switch, side view, showing tab (there are two, on opposite sides) you need to overcome to remove the "guts":

Switch, side view, showing guts coming out (you can see the two tabs, L and R, in this pic):

Switch, rear view, showing guts removed (the clear white plastic membrane is reversed, should be other way):

Guts, exposed:

Guts, rear view, showing input for harness:

I removed the guts by pushing in two small, thin flat head screw drivers, one on each side of the tab holding the guts in. I then had an assistant
remove the guts using a needle nose plier. You probably could do it yourself, but my friend was there to make it easier.
I'll remove the stock switch tomorrow, pics to follow.
US spec part number (looks to be same as GCC spec):

Switch, front:

Switch, side view, showing tab (there are two, on opposite sides) you need to overcome to remove the "guts":

Switch, side view, showing guts coming out (you can see the two tabs, L and R, in this pic):

Switch, rear view, showing guts removed (the clear white plastic membrane is reversed, should be other way):

Guts, exposed:

Guts, rear view, showing input for harness:

I removed the guts by pushing in two small, thin flat head screw drivers, one on each side of the tab holding the guts in. I then had an assistant
remove the guts using a needle nose plier. You probably could do it yourself, but my friend was there to make it easier.I'll remove the stock switch tomorrow, pics to follow.
Last edited by E-Ticket Ride; Oct 18, 2010 at 08:25 PM.



ofcourse...butt dyno proves +10whp for sure


if you can read out as its different from US)
