Urgent! Rear Main Seal Leak. Should I buy it?
Hey Guys,
Newb here looking at a 2007 G35 sport sedan with 50k miles for $12k. I gave it a test drive today and liked it enough to have a pre purchase inspection done. They determined that it has and oil leak between trans and engine, possibly the rear engine main seal. The seller is not willing to budge anymore on price.
Any ideas what that job costs to fix? Should I run away or buy and fix it?
Thanks!
Newb here looking at a 2007 G35 sport sedan with 50k miles for $12k. I gave it a test drive today and liked it enough to have a pre purchase inspection done. They determined that it has and oil leak between trans and engine, possibly the rear engine main seal. The seller is not willing to budge anymore on price.
Any ideas what that job costs to fix? Should I run away or buy and fix it?
Thanks!
I mean if you do the job yourself it's a $37.00 part for OEM or as cheap as $25.97 if you get an aftermarket one.
Plus a tube of ultra grey permatex for the oil pan for $9.99
If you don't feel comfortable jacking up the vehicle, using an engine brace to support the engine topside, removing the lower subframe, lower oil pan, upper oil pan, transmission, and installing a new rear main seal (and everything else) then I wouldn't buy the vehicle. It's about 12 hours of work plus 24 hour cure time for the ultra grey permatex when you're all done.
It's not exactly HARD its just time consuming, personally I'd buy it if that was the only problem and the vehicle was EXACTLY what I was looking for otherwise.
If you're not mechanically inclined to do all this work yourself then keep shopping. It's probably $1200 from the dealership and $800 from other places in town, might call around for prices though but I'm hesitant about anyone non-dealership touching my car...
Possibly also the transmission input shaft seal but you should be able to use your nose to tell if it's motor oil or gear oil.
Plus a tube of ultra grey permatex for the oil pan for $9.99
If you don't feel comfortable jacking up the vehicle, using an engine brace to support the engine topside, removing the lower subframe, lower oil pan, upper oil pan, transmission, and installing a new rear main seal (and everything else) then I wouldn't buy the vehicle. It's about 12 hours of work plus 24 hour cure time for the ultra grey permatex when you're all done.
It's not exactly HARD its just time consuming, personally I'd buy it if that was the only problem and the vehicle was EXACTLY what I was looking for otherwise.
If you're not mechanically inclined to do all this work yourself then keep shopping. It's probably $1200 from the dealership and $800 from other places in town, might call around for prices though but I'm hesitant about anyone non-dealership touching my car...
Possibly also the transmission input shaft seal but you should be able to use your nose to tell if it's motor oil or gear oil.
Hey Guys,
Newb here looking at a 2007 G35 sport sedan with 50k miles for $12k. I gave it a test drive today and liked it enough to have a pre purchase inspection done. They determined that it has and oil leak between trans and engine, possibly the rear engine main seal. The seller is not willing to budge anymore on price.
Any ideas what that job costs to fix? Should I run away or buy and fix it?
Thanks!
Newb here looking at a 2007 G35 sport sedan with 50k miles for $12k. I gave it a test drive today and liked it enough to have a pre purchase inspection done. They determined that it has and oil leak between trans and engine, possibly the rear engine main seal. The seller is not willing to budge anymore on price.
Any ideas what that job costs to fix? Should I run away or buy and fix it?
Thanks!
That is very low mileage for an eleven year old vehicle. Must have sat for long periods of time.
When I commuted every day with my previous 06 G35 6speed I traded it in in Aug 2012 with 171796 miles
The vehicle you are looking at is not worth $12k with a required $2k bill to fix
Get a dealer quote as well as a dealer complete vehicle inspection and service history to fix and deduct that cost from you counter offer
That's my $.02
Telcoman
Probably exactly why the RMS went out, dried up and went to crap. This is also a big reason why when I buy a preassembled short block I always put new front/rear seals in, you have no idea how long that motor has been sitting in storage, it could have been assembled a decade ago.
Trending Topics
Yeah it's a common wear item for all motors, once the seal is a decade old it's just a matter of time.
I feel bad for a buddy who just swapped motors in his Jeep Grand Cherokee, brand new motor, didn't change the FMS/RMS, has about 500 miles on the motor and the front started leaking >.<
I feel bad for a buddy who just swapped motors in his Jeep Grand Cherokee, brand new motor, didn't change the FMS/RMS, has about 500 miles on the motor and the front started leaking >.<
Just a follow up. I got them to reduce the price to $11.5k and had my local mechanic who rates are extremely good replace it for $500.
The car was driven pretty consistently over its life and never sat for too long so I'm not worried about that. Enjoying the car so far!
The car was driven pretty consistently over its life and never sat for too long so I'm not worried about that. Enjoying the car so far!
Yeah and given that the flood damage happened 8 years ago most of the parts that would fail would have done so by now. The biggest concern at this point in it's life would be any chassis rust.
Honestly though that price does sound REALLY high for a vehicle with a salvage title regardless of condition. You can almost buy a fully built supercharged one with 80-100k miles for that price...
If you're happy with the results then that's all that really matters
Post some pics! Get it thoroughly inspected underneath for rust, you can do a lot to halt the spread if you catch it early.
Honestly though that price does sound REALLY high for a vehicle with a salvage title regardless of condition. You can almost buy a fully built supercharged one with 80-100k miles for that price...
If you're happy with the results then that's all that really matters
Post some pics! Get it thoroughly inspected underneath for rust, you can do a lot to halt the spread if you catch it early.







