Title says it all, I currently own a **** box and have really fallen in love with the g35’s,

I currently have my eyes on a 2008 g35x AWD sport automatic (need the awd cuz Canada &#128554

im trying to stay around 5-8K (cad) so from what it seems I’m looking at a 150,000km+ car, any tips for buying and or what I should look out for would be great!

I am also really interested in after market modding but have heard that parts can be more difficult to find for the g35x awd, anyone with experience modding these I would love to hear how it went!

thanks!

Take it to Nissan / Infiniti for a pre-purchase inspection, that's the best advice. Anything with that high of mileage is likely going to need all the suspension bushings replaced, wheel bearings, struts, etc. The suspension is pretty shot after 100k miles

For winters you'll love the car! mine is fabulous in the snow,and ice. plenty of power, and looks, and handling that match right up with almost anything out there today! (imo) I never got into "modding" the car, i have a summer set of wheels and tires, 245/45/18, and did a custom steering wheel.... and thats about it. thing iv'e replaced in the 13 years of ownership, front struts, both front wheel bearings, one rear brake caliper, and one rear shock. Also had ECU reflashed for the first time in cars life a couple of months ago. i like vehicles that i can leave late.... and get there early, The G can do this.....

I just recently purchased a 2008 G35xS, with 72K miles on it, It has the Premium Pkg with Bose Navigation. Relatively rust free. ISome suggestion:

1. Research:
   1. Use https://vincheck.info/ and check out the car history. Look at the car maintenance record to see how well it was maintained.
   2. You can also go to mycarfax and add the car to get the car maintenance records.
   3. Figure out what the car should be equipped with.
2. As other suggested, get someone to look it over for you if you're not confident yourself For the most part, it's like buying any other use car. I find a OBD scanner very handy, I use the Torque app.
3. Make sure every button and dial works.

Good luck, it's a fun car but burns through the premium gas.

Yep, got mine a year and a half ago with 136k miles. The dealership said it looked pretty good all around, but the bushings and bearings would be needed soon. I changed out the front bearings about 13-14k later, and I'll be changing bushings this summer when I have the front end pulled apart to do the oil gallery gasket. The mileage he's looking at is definitely a gamble, but less so if he's perfectly willing to do work on it himself.

Double Tap

What do you know about the s/w change ? How old was your version (presumably what it left the factory with) vs what they updated it to ?

Hi Hal, not sure what you mean by S/W ..... but my version in the car was how it left the factory, and what they installed a couple of months ago was 23710-JK68E apparently my car had the original JK68A So they explained it to my that they're were A, B, C, D, and the latest is E... So i obviously missed a bunch of updates over the years. But it did cure the weird miss and or hiccupping i was experiencing for years! The car has never driven better!! and it still has that hyper throttle response, that i like! and was mistakenly afraid i'd lose with updates over the years....

S/W = software. I've seen references to the software before and it is given in A, B, C and so on. I have NDIS and with an ODBII reader, it seems to refer to my car having version "C". I see you have an '07 so if you ever tried cleaning the throttle bodies, you could have run into issues getting the idle to reset properly with A or B software.

How did you get them to update it ? I mean, so many times the service advisors don't understand or play dumb about this. What did they charge you, a hour labor to do it ?

Ah Software,, duh, lol,, I wish i could scan or take a pic of my work order for you,,,, but i don't know how Here is the text of the tech... Fuel readings ok, no codes found, Found throttle bodies dirty, and needs ECM update, Serviced T/B's, and reprogram ECM. test drove ok. Even though i rarely trust dealers, i had to go to one to get this done. I have never cleaned the Throttle bodies in 13 years of owning this car, ( never thought it needed it) always drove good! when i went in there, (to the dealer) i picked out a service writer, and basically went over everything car did, so we were ALL on same page! i also asked for the best drive ability tech they had! I told them i do NOT want to be surprised, and frustrated! I have had to many >a hem< disappointments with dealers over the years, It seemed to help, or it didn't hurt, they charged me just over $500.00 to do this stuff, ( also got a loaner to use for almost the week it was there) So i was satisfied! car drives like new! ( it has 71,xxx miles on it) So yes, the car went from A, to E on the ECM update, with A being what it left Japan with....

Makes sense since you had the throttle bodies cleaned. On '07 and older models, you have to be pretty cautious when cleaning them or they won't relearn the idle. This happens on s/w A and B, apparently. With C (and newer), Nissan changed something to resolve this. I have version C (seems that all '08 and newer models will) and cleaning them isn't an issue. I can move the butterfly valves, etc, etc and it's fine when I'm done.

That's good to know, I always wondered why some G35 had such massive issues with people working the TB by hand when cleaning. I've never seen a vehicle that was so insanely picky about not touching those TB's and I always attributed it to some kind of mechanical flaw in the design. Makes a lot more sense that it's a programming flaw.

Enough people have posted about TB issues after cleaning and those that give in and go to the dealer end up with either a) being told their TB needs replaced and their ECU updated or b) their ECUs updated. IMO, the dealers that go with option "a" are either incompetent or shady. Updating the software is probably all that's needed.

Just cleaned my throttle bodies 2 weeks ago and while it markedly improved my rough idle, now needs the "pedal dance" re. idle relearn. First time it happened - previously cleaned TBs thrice with no issues, thought I was being extra careful and only used the CRC cleaner on a shop towel and did not spray the bodies directly - but I guess it was my time. Moral of the story - don't buy a 1st year model vehicle.

Is it driveable ? Some people end up with it idling at 1500-2000 (when warm, not cold - you're in NY, you know what 'cold idle' is and that it's normal) and even the "pedal dance" won't work. They have to go to a dealer and update their ECU software.