Knock sensor replacement P0327 P0328 P0011
#1
02-03-2013, 10:27 AM
Knock sensor replacement P0327 P0328 P0011
Just wanted to drop a note here on my experience changing the knock sensor. To recap, I had just changed my oil and within a few miles I got the the CEL, VDC, and SLIP lights on at once. Car was throwing P0345 code so I replaced passenger cam position sensor, reset computer and was good for about 20 miles but got CEL again. Pulled codes and now had P0011 and P00327. The Autozone code diagnostics suggested anti knock sensor first. Preparing for this I did some research and found a surprising number of guys doing this only to discover it was bad knock harness. This seemed interesting to me but I figured if there was a problem with mine I can cut,splice and solder and shrink tube with the best of them. So I got my sensor for $10 from eBay this week and set out to replace it yesterday. I'm an ex-aircraft mechanic and I hadn't done anything like this in while and I was more concerned about creating new issues moving wires and disconnecting sensors, etc but I jumped right in.
I removed top plenum cover first (aka collector top). To avoid the throtte control actuator reset procedure I left this connected and simply wired the collector top out off the way. Next was the lower plenum which was pretty simple, six main bolts and two end nuts and few accessories attached. Witht he lower collector removed now was able to see the manifold, furel rails and injectors. There are four end bolts and four nuts. To get down to them, I disconnected the injector plugs, fuel rail supply line and the fuel rails (4bolts) so they could be moved just enough to get a socket to them. Within a few minutes I had it off and was looking directly at the what I had come for, the knock sensor.One bolt and one plug later and I finally had it in my hand.
From the video I posted in the CPS DIY thread the knock sensor is like a microphone. The computer listens for knock and pinging thru this device and is constantly making timing adjustments based on these signals it is sending. Interesting to know I guess. The book says the knock sensor should have 532-588k ohms to be within operating limits. I testedmine it and was at 563k ohms so it checked good. After all this work I was going to replace it anyway but now I wanted to focus on the infamous harness that everyone was talking about. The harness runs down the back of the block to the passenger side and has a metal bracket that stays it to body. There it plugs in to the main harness and contiues to the ECU. Getting to that was a bit of a choir but I did manage to reach it from under the car and now had the harness in my hand.
First off, this isnt just a two wire harness with a couple of plugs and a plastic shield. I peeled back the plastic tubing and revealed what looks like a very crude splice of sorts. The splice was 3-5" long at each end and spliced in a foot long section of single lead wire. I belive this to be some sort of coaxial wire designed to work with the piezo element in the knock sensor. Regardless this looked really crude for OEM but who knows? Looking closely at the sensor end of the cable the wires were hard and brittle and a little movement quickly cracked the insulation. This needed to be replaced whether it tested good or not. I put probes on it to find .6ohms resistance. The leads had continuity between them. I ordered replacement harnessfor $38 from Z1 motorsports here:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5833
The cable arrived and upon checking it, it had no continuity between the pins. It's my guess then that somwhere within that mess of a crude splice the wires were touching each other and shorted out. Looking closely at the Z1 harness you could see it too had the coax cable spliced in but done much more neatly than my original and used heat shrink over the joints.
A note on the two knock codes here taken form the G35 manual.
P0327 - Knock sensor circuit - low input: An excessively low voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
Possible cause: Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
P0328 - Knock sensor circuit high input - An excessively high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
Possible Cause - Bad knock sensor
In this case, the P0327 code was spot on in detecting my shorted harness. I quickly installed the new sensor and harness and began the reassembly. Waitng till the last minute to do this I didnt think to pickup gasksets and of course everyone had to order them. I did a little research to find this interesting thread here on a 350Z forum about reusing metal gaskets on V35 engines, specifically post #7:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...ld-gasket.html
So even with the protective paint flaking off the gaskets, yes I did the unthinkable and reused them. After I got the engine back together it started right up and CEL still illuminated. I tried the ECU pedal reset method (which had worked before) but couldnt get it to reset. I disconnected the battery, had a sandwich and came back and reconnected and started the car. CEL still on but perfromed the ECU pedal reset again and this time it worked. Light is out and I took the car fro a brief spin and all seems well. I will post up if the issue returns or I get new codes.
I removed top plenum cover first (aka collector top). To avoid the throtte control actuator reset procedure I left this connected and simply wired the collector top out off the way. Next was the lower plenum which was pretty simple, six main bolts and two end nuts and few accessories attached. Witht he lower collector removed now was able to see the manifold, furel rails and injectors. There are four end bolts and four nuts. To get down to them, I disconnected the injector plugs, fuel rail supply line and the fuel rails (4bolts) so they could be moved just enough to get a socket to them. Within a few minutes I had it off and was looking directly at the what I had come for, the knock sensor.One bolt and one plug later and I finally had it in my hand.
From the video I posted in the CPS DIY thread the knock sensor is like a microphone. The computer listens for knock and pinging thru this device and is constantly making timing adjustments based on these signals it is sending. Interesting to know I guess. The book says the knock sensor should have 532-588k ohms to be within operating limits. I testedmine it and was at 563k ohms so it checked good. After all this work I was going to replace it anyway but now I wanted to focus on the infamous harness that everyone was talking about. The harness runs down the back of the block to the passenger side and has a metal bracket that stays it to body. There it plugs in to the main harness and contiues to the ECU. Getting to that was a bit of a choir but I did manage to reach it from under the car and now had the harness in my hand.
First off, this isnt just a two wire harness with a couple of plugs and a plastic shield. I peeled back the plastic tubing and revealed what looks like a very crude splice of sorts. The splice was 3-5" long at each end and spliced in a foot long section of single lead wire. I belive this to be some sort of coaxial wire designed to work with the piezo element in the knock sensor. Regardless this looked really crude for OEM but who knows? Looking closely at the sensor end of the cable the wires were hard and brittle and a little movement quickly cracked the insulation. This needed to be replaced whether it tested good or not. I put probes on it to find .6ohms resistance. The leads had continuity between them. I ordered replacement harnessfor $38 from Z1 motorsports here:
http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35...oducts_id=5833
The cable arrived and upon checking it, it had no continuity between the pins. It's my guess then that somwhere within that mess of a crude splice the wires were touching each other and shorted out. Looking closely at the Z1 harness you could see it too had the coax cable spliced in but done much more neatly than my original and used heat shrink over the joints.
A note on the two knock codes here taken form the G35 manual.
P0327 - Knock sensor circuit - low input: An excessively low voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
Possible cause: Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
P0328 - Knock sensor circuit high input - An excessively high voltage from the sensor is sent to ECM.
Possible Cause - Bad knock sensor
In this case, the P0327 code was spot on in detecting my shorted harness. I quickly installed the new sensor and harness and began the reassembly. Waitng till the last minute to do this I didnt think to pickup gasksets and of course everyone had to order them. I did a little research to find this interesting thread here on a 350Z forum about reusing metal gaskets on V35 engines, specifically post #7:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-d...ld-gasket.html
So even with the protective paint flaking off the gaskets, yes I did the unthinkable and reused them. After I got the engine back together it started right up and CEL still illuminated. I tried the ECU pedal reset method (which had worked before) but couldnt get it to reset. I disconnected the battery, had a sandwich and came back and reconnected and started the car. CEL still on but perfromed the ECU pedal reset again and this time it worked. Light is out and I took the car fro a brief spin and all seems well. I will post up if the issue returns or I get new codes.
Last edited by miketyler; 02-03-2013 at 10:34 AM.
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krazzyborri (06-22-2013)
#3
06-22-2013, 12:27 PM
My knock sensor checked good but I replaced it with a cheapie off of eBay. The harness however was shorted together and checked bad so I replaced it. This did take care of my P00327 code but the P0011 persisted to haunt me. I cleaned the passenger side IVT solenoid with no change. I finally fixed the P0011 code by replacing the cheap sensor I had just bought off of eBay and replaced with an OEM. I have over 500 miles on it now with no SES light. Car now starts immediately cold or hot.
Some tips on chasing down IVT codes that I learned from the tech at the dealership I posted in another thread but basically the cars are sensitive to the cheap CPS sensors so go ahead and bite the bullet and buy OEM.
Second,, if you are throwing a P0011 (passenger side IVT) and replacing the passenger side CPS doesn't fix it, it can be being caused by the drivers side CPS or even the crankshaft sensor located under the car. The dealership will replace the side that's designated in the fault code first and if SES returns, they replace the other two. All three sensors talk to each other so be aware of this when you start your troubleshooting. The tech said this is a no brainer in the Infiniti dealership tech world and applies to any of their V35 line.
Some tips on chasing down IVT codes that I learned from the tech at the dealership I posted in another thread but basically the cars are sensitive to the cheap CPS sensors so go ahead and bite the bullet and buy OEM.
Second,, if you are throwing a P0011 (passenger side IVT) and replacing the passenger side CPS doesn't fix it, it can be being caused by the drivers side CPS or even the crankshaft sensor located under the car. The dealership will replace the side that's designated in the fault code first and if SES returns, they replace the other two. All three sensors talk to each other so be aware of this when you start your troubleshooting. The tech said this is a no brainer in the Infiniti dealership tech world and applies to any of their V35 line.
Last edited by miketyler; 06-22-2013 at 05:14 PM.
#5
07-31-2013, 03:08 PM
Most common is dirty oil causing the Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve to get dirty or stuck (Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve can also be bad)
take it off the car and take the 10mm bolt out and the valve will pull out. Just spray brake cleaner, and let it dry of like 5 min and put it back (don't use a brush of anything else)
Possible causes
- Faulty Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve harness is open or shorted
- Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor (POS)
http://engine-codes.com/p0011_infiniti.html
Last edited by BH818; 07-31-2013 at 03:26 PM.
#7
12-24-2014, 06:24 PM
Mike,
Do you have any more pics or videos on how you replaced the knock sensor and the harness? I was quoted $340 from a mechanic to do it and he stated that it would take 4 hours to do according to his computer.
This is kind of a new issue in my 2004 g35. My CEL went off in the summer time and I did get a p037 code then, but it went away and didn't come back until about a week or so ago. Before I rechecked my CEL codes, my car was hesitating to start - particularly when it was really cold outside and my car had been sitting overnight or for multiple hours. Come to find out through researching online, the cam sensors and/or crankshaft sensor could have been the issue and it seemed to be a common problem on the g35. I changed all 3 of them myself and reset the CEL. The car cranks normally now, but after I originally replaced the sensors and reset the CEL, like yourself, I could drive for about 20 miles before the CEL came back on. I then got it checked at autozone again and the p0327 code came up. So upon researching some more online about the details of a knock sensor, I came across your post.
I cant find a video online anywhere to see exactly how replacing the knock sensor and harness on the g35 can be done. All I know is where it's located and your post is absolutely helpful. Is there any other advice you can give on how to replace the knock sensor and harness? Anything helps, and I need to do this as soon as possible. I don't want to have to shell out damn near 400 dollars on something I'm capable of doing. It's pretty cold out here in Michigan as well and this couldn't have happened at a worse time. I'm also seeing my rpms jump when I accelerate, break, or sometimes even in idle. I read that these can be symptoms of a faulty knock sensor as well. I'm certain this is the major issue I'm dealing with. I'm also losing about 50 to 100 miles per tank on gas now. I don't want this to become a bigger issue so like I said, anything helps....
If anyone else has information, video, or photos that would be great!
Thanks and have a great Holidays!
-Raffi
Do you have any more pics or videos on how you replaced the knock sensor and the harness? I was quoted $340 from a mechanic to do it and he stated that it would take 4 hours to do according to his computer.
This is kind of a new issue in my 2004 g35. My CEL went off in the summer time and I did get a p037 code then, but it went away and didn't come back until about a week or so ago. Before I rechecked my CEL codes, my car was hesitating to start - particularly when it was really cold outside and my car had been sitting overnight or for multiple hours. Come to find out through researching online, the cam sensors and/or crankshaft sensor could have been the issue and it seemed to be a common problem on the g35. I changed all 3 of them myself and reset the CEL. The car cranks normally now, but after I originally replaced the sensors and reset the CEL, like yourself, I could drive for about 20 miles before the CEL came back on. I then got it checked at autozone again and the p0327 code came up. So upon researching some more online about the details of a knock sensor, I came across your post.
I cant find a video online anywhere to see exactly how replacing the knock sensor and harness on the g35 can be done. All I know is where it's located and your post is absolutely helpful. Is there any other advice you can give on how to replace the knock sensor and harness? Anything helps, and I need to do this as soon as possible. I don't want to have to shell out damn near 400 dollars on something I'm capable of doing. It's pretty cold out here in Michigan as well and this couldn't have happened at a worse time. I'm also seeing my rpms jump when I accelerate, break, or sometimes even in idle. I read that these can be symptoms of a faulty knock sensor as well. I'm certain this is the major issue I'm dealing with. I'm also losing about 50 to 100 miles per tank on gas now. I don't want this to become a bigger issue so like I said, anything helps....
If anyone else has information, video, or photos that would be great!
Thanks and have a great Holidays!
-Raffi
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#8
01-02-2015, 11:55 AM
Raffi, did you buy the OEM sensors? I replaced all three, got the code again, and replaced the harness with the z1 kit, only to find that the real problem was the cheap sensor I got on Ebay had already failed again almost immediately. I got the OEM sensors on Amazon for less than $100 each, and problem solved. I can help you if you need to do the harness, I made a video and haven't had a chance to upload it yet.
#9
01-02-2015, 11:58 AM
But to answer, yes the harness is involved, but easy. It's basically the same steps as the motordyne spacer install, then you remove the lower plenum and the sensor is right there smack in the middle. Snap the new sensor in place and feed the wire down where the other one is. Go under the car and you can see the old sensor connection. I left the old harness there dangling because it's pinched in there, and just hooked up the new one.
https://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
Fear is the most time-consuming aspect, as removing the fuel rails was very intimidating for me and I found no help online. That's why I made a video, and will share it, but essentially, the fuel rail assembly just has a couple screws and pulls right out of the injector holes. Gas will spill so be ready for that. After reconnecting the fuel rails, you have to put the key in and turn it to On, then off, about 5 times without starting to fill them with gas again.
https://www.motordyneengineering.com/manual.pdf
Fear is the most time-consuming aspect, as removing the fuel rails was very intimidating for me and I found no help online. That's why I made a video, and will share it, but essentially, the fuel rail assembly just has a couple screws and pulls right out of the injector holes. Gas will spill so be ready for that. After reconnecting the fuel rails, you have to put the key in and turn it to On, then off, about 5 times without starting to fill them with gas again.
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GSpeedRevUp (01-31-2016)
#10
01-02-2015, 07:43 PM
Thank you for the information. If you could upload the video that would be great! I'm still waiting on my plenum gasket to come in the mail and planned on taking my car to my mechanic and have him swap out the knock sensor and harness (harness purchased from Z1) ....they charge 50 and hour and it would only cost me 100 to have them do it...also, I would be able to stick around and watch/help him do it.
Regarding the sensor, I did not get the code for them after I changed them out and they were not OEM sensors. Like yourself, I originally purchased the crankshaft sensor from AutoZone and the cam sensors on eBay...right now, I get the p0327 and the p0507 regarding the idle control system.
I'm getting the p0507 because I cleaned out the throttle body while I was at it replacing the cam sensors...problem is that I didn't know I wasn't supposed to touch the butterfly flap to clean it and I did. So another fix I need to make is that. After driving for a while, my car hard shifts and the slip and vdc off lights come on and the RPMs jump around a bit. Sometimes when I slow down and idle, the RPMs drop to a point where my car stalls, so I have to put the car in park, turn the car off and crank it again....To remove the lights and try to resolve the issue, I have to do all the resets, but it doesn't seem to consistently work or keep the issue from coming back up again. If you have any information on that situation to, that'd be great!
Thanks for your response.
Regarding the sensor, I did not get the code for them after I changed them out and they were not OEM sensors. Like yourself, I originally purchased the crankshaft sensor from AutoZone and the cam sensors on eBay...right now, I get the p0327 and the p0507 regarding the idle control system.
I'm getting the p0507 because I cleaned out the throttle body while I was at it replacing the cam sensors...problem is that I didn't know I wasn't supposed to touch the butterfly flap to clean it and I did. So another fix I need to make is that. After driving for a while, my car hard shifts and the slip and vdc off lights come on and the RPMs jump around a bit. Sometimes when I slow down and idle, the RPMs drop to a point where my car stalls, so I have to put the car in park, turn the car off and crank it again....To remove the lights and try to resolve the issue, I have to do all the resets, but it doesn't seem to consistently work or keep the issue from coming back up again. If you have any information on that situation to, that'd be great!
Thanks for your response.
#11
01-05-2015, 12:08 AM
Raffi, did you buy the OEM sensors? I replaced all three, got the code again, and replaced the harness with the z1 kit, only to find that the real problem was the cheap sensor I got on Ebay had already failed again almost immediately. I got the OEM sensors on Amazon for less than $100 each, and problem solved. I can help you if you need to do the harness, I made a video and haven't had a chance to upload it yet.
#12
01-31-2016, 09:40 AM
Ya I was going to say... don't buy the cheap ebay parts for sensors and important functioned parts. Like what happened to you it already went bad. Thanks for your write up and experience, I will be getting the OEM knock sensor.
Oh btw if you need to replace your knock sensor should I get a new wiring harness also or can I just use the old one? Also where did you guys purchase the OEM new knock sensor/wiring harness at? Thanks.
Oh btw if you need to replace your knock sensor should I get a new wiring harness also or can I just use the old one? Also where did you guys purchase the OEM new knock sensor/wiring harness at? Thanks.
Last edited by GSpeedRevUp; 01-31-2016 at 09:52 AM.
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