Is this normal fuel pressure with walbro?
#1
Fuel pressure too high?
A buddy said my fuel pressure was high...(66-68psi looks like) I have a Walbro GSS342 pump purchased from Injected Performance, ID725's from T1 and a fuel pressure gauge adapter w/ direct reading gauge. Stock fuel system other than that... What you think? Anything to worry about? This is @ idle...
Last edited by joeb1983; 10-06-2013 at 08:46 PM.
#4
Is there another mod that needs to be done other than trimming the tabs on the pump inself? I followed a thread on the install of the pump to the "T", but I read elsewhere today about a fuel pump hanger mod to achieve proper flow, but searchng for that mod it brings up return sytems. Heres what Injected Performance states on there listing for the pump;
"Your factory fuel pump hangar will require minor modification to achieve the correct fuel flow"
"Your factory fuel pump hangar will require minor modification to achieve the correct fuel flow"
#6
A buddy said my fuel pressure was high...(66-68psi looks like) I have a Walbro GSS342 pump purchased from Injected Performance, ID725's from T1 and a fuel pressure gauge adapter w/ direct reading gauge. Stock fuel system other than that... What you think? Anything to worry about? This is @ idle...
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Performed the swirl jet and regulator mods per CJ Motorsports instructions in the link above. Fuel pressure @ idle is now a steady 56psi instead of the slightly fluxing 70psi it was at before. The Haynes manual states fuel pressure should be anywhere between 53 - 63psi so, Good to go!
An external FPR should read in the 40s with all the vacuum line connected. If the pressure is set to 50 with the line connected I would suggest removing it and verify the reading then reconnect.
#9
I'm still rocking the oem FPR in the tank/pump housing as I did not convert it to a return style system. Not over 400whp (334whp on a Mustang dyno, so roughly 370ish on a DynoJet give or take) due to it being a stock bottom end, so no need to spend the $ and convert... The direct reading gauge is just installed on an sandwhich style adapter. Like AAM's. That thing that looks like a FPR above the gauge is actually a "fuel pulse damper".
I drilled the swirl jet out to .070 with a #50 drill bit (had to order) and the oem FPR with a 7/64" bit per CJ Motorsports directions. Worked like a champ and my tuner said perfect! Now we can dial in those AFR's.
I drilled the swirl jet out to .070 with a #50 drill bit (had to order) and the oem FPR with a 7/64" bit per CJ Motorsports directions. Worked like a champ and my tuner said perfect! Now we can dial in those AFR's.
Last edited by joeb1983; 10-12-2013 at 05:37 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RemmyZero
V36 DIY
10
04-23-2018 11:13 AM
Hogbone
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
2
09-28-2015 06:44 PM