tachometer needle problem
tachometer needle problem
Hello,
I just picked up my first g35 - an 06 coupe 6mt LR. For the most part, I LOVE IT, but it has been mostly problematic since I got it.
Literally the day after I bought it, I went out to start it up to go for a cruise and the battery was dead. I jumped it and took it to the dealership and they replaced it. About a day later, I found that the front tires were completely worn on the inside and needed to be replaced immediately. That was an out of pocket expense. The horn also needed a fuse - nothing big.
Fast forward 2 weeks, it goes into limp mode and won't rev past 1500rpm. The battery light had came on earlier that morning and i suspected an alternator. I tried to shut it down and restart to see if maybe it were a glitch and it would not restart as if the battery was dead. Towed it to a REAL dealership, a local nissan lot, and had it fixed under my extended warranty. I just picked it back up last night.
After picking it up, I noticed the needle to my RPM gauge was not moving. Upon closer observation, I saw that the issue was that the needle was ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE STOPPING PIN. In case that isn't explanation enough, imagine where your needle sits when the car is turned off and the rpm is at "0." That is where my needle stays as the car is driving because it is hitting the bottom side of that pin. When I turn the car off, the needle drops to the 6 o'clock position, or directly down.
The dealership basically said that the alternator going out caused something to make that needle jump all the way around and put it in the incorrect position and that I would have to pay out of pocket for that... Not too happy right now.
Is there a way to fix this? I know my way around cars fairly well, but am unfamiliar with this issue.
Thank you in advance,
Jimmie
I just picked up my first g35 - an 06 coupe 6mt LR. For the most part, I LOVE IT, but it has been mostly problematic since I got it.
Literally the day after I bought it, I went out to start it up to go for a cruise and the battery was dead. I jumped it and took it to the dealership and they replaced it. About a day later, I found that the front tires were completely worn on the inside and needed to be replaced immediately. That was an out of pocket expense. The horn also needed a fuse - nothing big.
Fast forward 2 weeks, it goes into limp mode and won't rev past 1500rpm. The battery light had came on earlier that morning and i suspected an alternator. I tried to shut it down and restart to see if maybe it were a glitch and it would not restart as if the battery was dead. Towed it to a REAL dealership, a local nissan lot, and had it fixed under my extended warranty. I just picked it back up last night.
After picking it up, I noticed the needle to my RPM gauge was not moving. Upon closer observation, I saw that the issue was that the needle was ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE STOPPING PIN. In case that isn't explanation enough, imagine where your needle sits when the car is turned off and the rpm is at "0." That is where my needle stays as the car is driving because it is hitting the bottom side of that pin. When I turn the car off, the needle drops to the 6 o'clock position, or directly down.
The dealership basically said that the alternator going out caused something to make that needle jump all the way around and put it in the incorrect position and that I would have to pay out of pocket for that... Not too happy right now.
Is there a way to fix this? I know my way around cars fairly well, but am unfamiliar with this issue.
Thank you in advance,
Jimmie
That's the weirdest thing I've ever read.
Like, how would that happen? The last proverbial breath (or surge) of the alternator caused the needle to jump over the "wall"? You're certain this wasn't like that after you changed the battery and before you changed the alternator?
Like, how would that happen? The last proverbial breath (or surge) of the alternator caused the needle to jump over the "wall"? You're certain this wasn't like that after you changed the battery and before you changed the alternator?
100%
I wouldn't have been able to tell you what rpm the gauge was hitting while in limp mode if it were a pre existing problem. I was really hoping the dealership would have taken ownership and fixed it
I wouldn't have been able to tell you what rpm the gauge was hitting while in limp mode if it were a pre existing problem. I was really hoping the dealership would have taken ownership and fixed it
Last edited by twoshort108; Jul 15, 2014 at 05:21 PM.
Then, yeah, it happened on their watch. I've never heard of that happening tho. II'm thinking you'd have to take the guage cluster out, manually set it back, but I think the mechanism would be broken now even if you did that. I'd do what I could to have them take responsibility.
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