Car cranks, won't turn over
#1
![Angry](https://g35driver.com/forums/images/icons/icon8.gif)
Hi everyone! Loads of information on this site. I've been searching and searching and haven't been able to find anything regarding my direct situation, but I'm 99% sure I've narrowed it down to the Immobilizer or my keys. ECU is in there...but really hoping its not the ECU.
I bought my 2007 Infiniti G35 Base Coupe (AT), with SmartKey, used.. I wanted to get a Remote start system installed, like I had installed in my previous car (08 Scion tC). Well, I took it to an authorized dealer after buying everything online at half the price. Come to find out that the chip in my key wasn't programmed, but the fob was. The installer found out when he went to program the key on the Immobilizer bypass. To do so, you have to put the fob at least 10 ft away from the vehicle and crank the key. This is when he found out, and when he showed me. He also said that he thinks my immobilizer bypass is defective because he couldn't get it to program.
So I go online and buy 2 keys with chips ($7 each). I get them in the mail and have a mobile locksmith come and make my copies and program them. $90 for as many as I wanted (within reason). He cut my blanks with chips and also programmed them. Well,
the locksmith programmed the keys, but realized that the codes programmed wouldn't last for more then 3 or 4 engine turnovers. He had a system with him that let him run diagnostics, and it was pointing back to the CAN. He tried programming my keys a few times and the results were all the same.
However, the fob was working. I thought maybe the system was reading the immobilizer bypass as an error since it didn't have the keys programmed, and that the programming was wiping because the immobilizer was knocking them out. In limbo, per say.
I had the technician program the keys, and I tried to program the Immobilizer bypass (Xpresskit DBALL2 running firmware 402.NISS2HT 3.07). No go. I tried reflashing the immobilizer bypass. Nothing. So I tried to do a hard reset. But to do a hard reset you have to have it connected to the car. So while having the bypass connected to the car, I did a hard reset by holding the button down on the DBALL2. Well, after that....the fob doesn't work.
So now, the keys AND the FOB don't work. The fob will let me unlock the doors at range and by the little button on the handle when in proximity. It will also allow me to crank. But nothing will turn over. Not the key, not the Fob.
I've tried the following:
I called the locksmith again and he swears to me that if the key is able to open the door at proximity as well as crank the engine, that its programmed and it has to do with something else in my car. However, I remember in my Scion that the factory alarm was different than the immobilizer programming. I tried explaining this to him and he said because these have Smart keys that if the door opens that its already programmed for the car. Is this true? Or am I right in saying the 2 codes are different (factory alarm vs immobilizer)
He stated he thinks the immobilizer is wiped and that I need to take it to the dealer. Is this true?
The remote start system is a Python 5706p with a DBALL2 immobilizer bypass programmed with the firmware the manufacturer suggested (402.NISS2HT 3.07).
I don't want to take this bad boy to the dealer if I don't have to. I'm afraid they are going to suggest a bunch of stuff that MIGHT fix the issue but not really. Any help will be appreciated! I'm really in a jam here because this is my daily driver. I'm going to monitoring this very closely so please ask any questions you may need to help troubleshoot.
PS. Sorry for the rant, I wanted to put in as much info possible to make sure I got a response quickly
I bought my 2007 Infiniti G35 Base Coupe (AT), with SmartKey, used.. I wanted to get a Remote start system installed, like I had installed in my previous car (08 Scion tC). Well, I took it to an authorized dealer after buying everything online at half the price. Come to find out that the chip in my key wasn't programmed, but the fob was. The installer found out when he went to program the key on the Immobilizer bypass. To do so, you have to put the fob at least 10 ft away from the vehicle and crank the key. This is when he found out, and when he showed me. He also said that he thinks my immobilizer bypass is defective because he couldn't get it to program.
So I go online and buy 2 keys with chips ($7 each). I get them in the mail and have a mobile locksmith come and make my copies and program them. $90 for as many as I wanted (within reason). He cut my blanks with chips and also programmed them. Well,
the locksmith programmed the keys, but realized that the codes programmed wouldn't last for more then 3 or 4 engine turnovers. He had a system with him that let him run diagnostics, and it was pointing back to the CAN. He tried programming my keys a few times and the results were all the same.
However, the fob was working. I thought maybe the system was reading the immobilizer bypass as an error since it didn't have the keys programmed, and that the programming was wiping because the immobilizer was knocking them out. In limbo, per say.
I had the technician program the keys, and I tried to program the Immobilizer bypass (Xpresskit DBALL2 running firmware 402.NISS2HT 3.07). No go. I tried reflashing the immobilizer bypass. Nothing. So I tried to do a hard reset. But to do a hard reset you have to have it connected to the car. So while having the bypass connected to the car, I did a hard reset by holding the button down on the DBALL2. Well, after that....the fob doesn't work.
So now, the keys AND the FOB don't work. The fob will let me unlock the doors at range and by the little button on the handle when in proximity. It will also allow me to crank. But nothing will turn over. Not the key, not the Fob.
I've tried the following:
- Removed the DBALL2
- Reflashed the Bypass with different options
- Disconnected the battery for 15 minutes
- Looked for codes using my OBDLink MX Bluetooth (not a knockoff), along with Torque, DashCommand, and OBDLink.
I called the locksmith again and he swears to me that if the key is able to open the door at proximity as well as crank the engine, that its programmed and it has to do with something else in my car. However, I remember in my Scion that the factory alarm was different than the immobilizer programming. I tried explaining this to him and he said because these have Smart keys that if the door opens that its already programmed for the car. Is this true? Or am I right in saying the 2 codes are different (factory alarm vs immobilizer)
He stated he thinks the immobilizer is wiped and that I need to take it to the dealer. Is this true?
The remote start system is a Python 5706p with a DBALL2 immobilizer bypass programmed with the firmware the manufacturer suggested (402.NISS2HT 3.07).
I don't want to take this bad boy to the dealer if I don't have to. I'm afraid they are going to suggest a bunch of stuff that MIGHT fix the issue but not really. Any help will be appreciated! I'm really in a jam here because this is my daily driver. I'm going to monitoring this very closely so please ask any questions you may need to help troubleshoot.
PS. Sorry for the rant, I wanted to put in as much info possible to make sure I got a response quickly
#2
Your service manuals are here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2007_G35_Coupe/
The one that covers the "Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System" is "bl.pdf".
I would agree that if your fob is allowing you to unlock and crank the car then the i-Key is working correctly and it is some other issue. I don't know the IVIS but the above mentioned manual should help you figure out if that's what's gone wrong.
Many fuses involved too ... just saying. Sometimes it's a simpler problem than you think.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2007_G35_Coupe/
The one that covers the "Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System" is "bl.pdf".
I would agree that if your fob is allowing you to unlock and crank the car then the i-Key is working correctly and it is some other issue. I don't know the IVIS but the above mentioned manual should help you figure out if that's what's gone wrong.
Many fuses involved too ... just saying. Sometimes it's a simpler problem than you think.
#3
Your service manuals are here:
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2007_G35_Coupe/
The one that covers the "Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System" is "bl.pdf".
I would agree that if your fob is allowing you to unlock and crank the car then the i-Key is working correctly and it is some other issue. I don't know the IVIS but the above mentioned manual should help you figure out if that's what's gone wrong.
Many fuses involved too ... just saying. Sometimes it's a simpler problem than you think.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Coupe/2007_G35_Coupe/
The one that covers the "Infiniti Vehicle Immobilizer System" is "bl.pdf".
I would agree that if your fob is allowing you to unlock and crank the car then the i-Key is working correctly and it is some other issue. I don't know the IVIS but the above mentioned manual should help you figure out if that's what's gone wrong.
Many fuses involved too ... just saying. Sometimes it's a simpler problem than you think.
Thanks for clarifying the Ikey.
I checked all the in-line fuses and fuses inside the car. Didn't check the engine bay ones. I was so frustrated after not finding anything and doing hours of research that I said screw it
I did find someone who said they disconnected the battery for an hour and It came back up. I disconnected mine for 4. Still nothing.
I'll review the manual. In the mean time, if anyone has any other suggestions, I'm open to them.
Thanks in advance!
#4
Couldn't find anything in the manual. Had it towed to the stealership. Stealership said the NATS amp antenna needed replacing. $600 later, they have it replaced. Now they said its still having issues, and that they can't troubleshoot because the alarm system and bypass are literally cut into the system. So for them to troubleshoot, they have to remove the system and splice the factory wiring back to normal. So...they said that would probably be another $500 in labor...not even replacing it, just them patching it back together.
So far at $1100 and car is still at stealership.
At least they are loaning me a G37. Which now has me a little erked that I got a g35. The chrome lip was so offputting that it became the reason I didn't get the G37. However, I saw a spoiler that covers the chrome lip, as opposed to stacking it on top of it, and now I want a G37 lol. Oh well. I still love my G35. Just can't wait to get it back so they can stop charging me more money.
So far at $1100 and car is still at stealership.
At least they are loaning me a G37. Which now has me a little erked that I got a g35. The chrome lip was so offputting that it became the reason I didn't get the G37. However, I saw a spoiler that covers the chrome lip, as opposed to stacking it on top of it, and now I want a G37 lol. Oh well. I still love my G35. Just can't wait to get it back so they can stop charging me more money.
#5
Another status update. They spent all day with it and supposedly they worked on it all day.
However, the install only took 6 hours. You would think pulling it out would take less time, especially if the service technician they assigned to my car has "20 years" as an Infiniti Service Tech and was previously a Service Manager. So...I'm sure they didn't work on it as much as they said they did. Especially if when I told them about the Immobilizer and they had no idea it was connected in there...when it wasn't even tied down. Should have been one of the first things they saw when they took off the panel.
I'll keep posting updates in hopes that maybe my expense will be someones direct resolution.
However, the install only took 6 hours. You would think pulling it out would take less time, especially if the service technician they assigned to my car has "20 years" as an Infiniti Service Tech and was previously a Service Manager. So...I'm sure they didn't work on it as much as they said they did. Especially if when I told them about the Immobilizer and they had no idea it was connected in there...when it wasn't even tied down. Should have been one of the first things they saw when they took off the panel.
I'll keep posting updates in hopes that maybe my expense will be someones direct resolution.
#6
[QUOTE=DeadpooI;6927268]Another status update. They spent all day with it and supposedly they worked on it all day.
I have the same problem....my posts are all over this site...it all started one nite when I opened car door, alarm went off and could not turn it off with fob...used key in door, alarm was then shut off...I have worked on it just like you and believe it is the immobilizer..took it to dealer who checked fob battery which was good. I have done everything you did and after many hrs finally get it fixed....FOR AWHILE...you see no matter what I do after a week or so I find myself stranded. I have been lucky so far in as much as I can get it running again but not for long..I can NO longer lock car...if I do nothing will start short of disconnecting battery for several hrs..The dealer said they have some ideas BUT it is going to be very expensive.
I have the same problem....my posts are all over this site...it all started one nite when I opened car door, alarm went off and could not turn it off with fob...used key in door, alarm was then shut off...I have worked on it just like you and believe it is the immobilizer..took it to dealer who checked fob battery which was good. I have done everything you did and after many hrs finally get it fixed....FOR AWHILE...you see no matter what I do after a week or so I find myself stranded. I have been lucky so far in as much as I can get it running again but not for long..I can NO longer lock car...if I do nothing will start short of disconnecting battery for several hrs..The dealer said they have some ideas BUT it is going to be very expensive.
#7
After they removed the alarm and Immobilizer bypass everything went back to normal. Dealership even put my old NATS Amp Antenna in and it worked. So they didn't charge me for the part, but they did charge me $900 in labor. Then since they already had it they replaced some belts and did the transmission fluid. Total was $1300. Ouch.
So either the Immobilizer or the alarm is bad. I'm going to return them to Amazon and let them figure it out because without installing it again I have no way to verify. If I would have to guess, I would put it on the Immobilizer bypass. I even asked the dealer if they had an OEM one they could install and they said no.
So I'm just going to suck it up and not get one. It's a convenience, not a necessity. And I had read how finnicky our systems are. I just thought I would luck out.
So either the Immobilizer or the alarm is bad. I'm going to return them to Amazon and let them figure it out because without installing it again I have no way to verify. If I would have to guess, I would put it on the Immobilizer bypass. I even asked the dealer if they had an OEM one they could install and they said no.
So I'm just going to suck it up and not get one. It's a convenience, not a necessity. And I had read how finnicky our systems are. I just thought I would luck out.
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