Wait, there's a Welcome section?

Anyway, my AAM High Flows cats have lasted over 100k at this point, no funky rattling noises so I guess they're still good.

I've gotten a set of Continental DWS to last 2 whole years on the rear of my car, vs 1 year with summer tires. The front still shows the "DWS" in the tire, so they're actually doing great. I might just have too much rear camber, but even the "DWS" that's stamped near the outside is gone, so maybe not.

Also have had one Yorkie last 14.5 years and another Yorkie last only 5 due to trachea issues. Currently on my third Yorkie and seems like he might last, if someone doesn't punt him across my yard first. Kind of a jerk, likes to try to bite the mailman and stuff. The one that didn't last was the most expensive, the other two have been relatively cheap and are good enough dogs. I've had neighbors spend nearly $2k on a "name brand" Yorkie only to get some huge monster the size of a Frenchy.

 

I'm surprised uve had so many problems with ur yorkies. Did u go thru the forum vendors? I usually don't they're usually overpriced. My bro has a yorkie very cute dog. Likes to put people fingers in her mouth to nibble on. Idk if that's a yorkie thing. Likes to occasionally eat her poop and dry hump ur arm. He never got warranty I'm not sure how important that is. Sorry ur having so many issues with ur yorkies.

 

The advice I'd give a noob.. if you put headers on this car, spend the money. The cheap paper thin stainless on my long tube headers the PO had put on had so many cracks..and not to mention that they were so badly designed they made it nearly impossible to lower the transmission to replace it. The Bilsteins are holding up great.. 23k miles between me and the 2008 Z they came from first. Eibach Pro Kits no issues. Plenum spacer, sounds great, more grunt, no leaks. Is good. Exhaust is full custom, any issues there is on me, but that also is good. Tires.. now rear tires are actually holding up okay for being 255/45 Azenis on an 18x11" wheel. I really need to do the camber arms but still have a decent contact patch. Once I get the alignment right I'll spend the money for some grip with 275/40 on 18x11. Labs.. love labs, but only if they are mixed with Dane. then they are a HUGE Lab and they last almost 14 yrs. RIP Dyno...

 

Sorry scraggle, but I just had to join the fun after 3-6 months off of the forum.

I would recommend any whiteline bushing over energy. I would recommend AAM hfcs over any other brand, especially berk.

Stay away from m2 exhaust products. Very thin. I would recommend ISR exhaust products from concept z (their y pipe is awesome).

Any sensors go OEM or go home, though someone here had a good 3 year stretch with some autozone cam sensors... Nice!

Spc rear toe rods/eccentric bolts did me well for years.

Tokico shocks were great until I got coils. Tein springs were great in the tokicos.

AEM dry flow filters are great for any CAI.

oil.... Oil... Oil.... AMSoil all freakin day. Literally never going back. Pennzoil if I must, definitely no m1. Back to aftermarket....

hawk pads rule all, stoptechs have good bite but fade when hot. Hawks have good bite AND don't fade. No squeaking for me contrary to popular belief.

Rotors... It's widely known that ebc and stoptech are made in the same plant with the same blanks so just go for ebc drilled/slotted instead of the more expensive stoptech ones.

plenum spacers.... As long as it isn't plastic you're all set. That goes with most parts...

Headers.... I had good luck with the topspeed ones that czp sold/sell. They were solid 304ss. Ran them for years (without wrap may be why they lasted) There may be others that are topspeed brand but they are not the same.

catch cans.... Don't bother! Vent the bit¢h to atmosphere and plug the plenum.

​​​​​lightweight underdrive crank pulleys... Fluiddampr or don't buy one at all.

tuning... Uprev obviously.

fuel pumps... Walbro lasted me years at 450whp and years before that NA.


Radiators... Mishomoto all the way. No need for a larger koyo that fits like crap. Coolant was ambient temp after getting off highway driving HARD

​​​​​​thats about all folks! For now at least





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[QUOTE=yosip1115;7093908]

I would recommend AAM hfcs over any other brand, especially berk.


Have you tried both? if yes how about pros n cons? if not, why are there so much cons with berk hfc's here? I was thinking maybe they fail more for guys that have FI setup than NA?

 

My powertrix coils held up remarkably well
Easy 80k miles on them and nothing blown no issues ride wise

Golden retrievers man. That's all I gotta say

 

[QUOTE=deeliciousqueen;7093920]I have not ran berks myself, but I have held them and I can learn a good amount from doing so with my engineering background.

I did run AAM HFC's for 2.5 years without any issues. They sounded great.

The berks will sound more raspy and tinny because they are made from thinner steel. I would imagine they would cheap out on the inners if they cheaped out on the casing.

I wish I had more experience to share, but the guys who recommended them to me over berks seemed to.

 

Well I already have the berks, not installed yet but will update this thread in few years.

 

Thanks for the share - replied to you here.

 

It was suggested that I share my experience with the Megan Racing Roll Center Adjusters. For those of you not familiar they are ball joints specifically designed for lowered cars. They keep the geometry of the suspension relatively the same as stock even with decent sized drops like mine which is 3" lower than stock on an 05 sedan. There is talk on the forum in more than one place saying these are junk but I've had mine for 3 years with over 20K miles on them and they still work great. I also have the SPL V3 front a-arms, the SPC rear toe bolts ans Stillen rear camber arms and I'm running factory settings on toe and camber even dropped as much as I am. Those 3 parts are money, don't know why people b!tch about the cost of the SPL's, they're worth every penny.

As long as I've been a member and staff on here this is the first time I've seen this thread, sad I know. Thanks Urban for the heads up!!

 

I had one of these, it lasted about a month before the welding snapped. Everybody here said its been great for them though. I think they were the Berks. In fact, I can't recall any set of test-pipe or HFC that didn't break on me after a few months.

 

Exhaust - one thing I've found about aftermarket exhausts no matter what car you own is that the only things that matter most for durability are the welds and the fitment of the exhaust as some kits will hang lower than others and that becomes a problem when you are lowered. I've snagged a few exhausts on potholes before, ripped at least one of them apart. I don't remember what happened with the other. One of them was on the G, which scraped the ground a lot before it got snagged, but that might just be how low I was.

Coils will never work as well or be as durable as those Tokicos. I went through two sets of coilovers (one was Tanabe Sustec Pro, I forget what the other was) within two years of owning the G, but the Tokicos never gave out on me.

Headers - If you pay attention, you might notice that DC is always first with a good equal length headers design for a lot of cars. Yeah, they pretty much all copy DC, period. The biggest thing we need to worry about the headers for the G are again, the welds.

 

Are you low? Could the cause of breaking welds is cause you are scraping?

 

Berk HFC's are known on here to not be a reliable part. A lot of members have reported the ceramic substrate material will break apart and cause inefficiency and rattling noises as well as the pipes cracking. ART pipes by Motordyne and Fast Intentions HFC's are both well made and seem to pass the test of time with flying colors.

I have a set of Tanabe Pro 5 coilovers, have 60K miles on them and they're still going strong so no complaints there.

And headers/exhaust I firmly believe you get what you pay for in regards to sound/quality. Buy a new set-up for $300 and you should keep your expectations very low. There's a reason systems like Motordyne's are pricey, a lot of R&D go into them and they're made extremely well.......