I'm new to this site so I'm sorry for any nube questions.

I just bought a 2006 G35, used from a private seller. The engine has been replaced with a used engine that had 120,000 miles on it. (The car has 169,000, so I expect a few problems) Because the previous owner let original engine run out of oil. But The SES, VDC off, TPMS, and Slip lights are all on. So I went to O'Reilly's and had them scan the codes for me:
C1115
C1145
C1143
P1211
P1078
P0507
P0011
P0021

8 Codes!! I was a little worried seeing so many codes, but not too worried about it because it doesn't cause any major problems that I know of.

The only thing that is annoying is on first start the only lights on are SES, and TPMS. I start driving and the brakes pulsate shaking the car violently, either for half a second or for a few seconds. That turns on the VDC off and Slip lights. It feels like it may be slightly doing it when I take right hand corners, but other than that the car runs pretty good in my opinion. Until I restart the car and it does the whole pulsating thing again for half a second. The only way to prevent it so far is to turn VDC off before I drive.(saw it in another forum somewhere)

The idle is also a little high from what others say it should be in the forum. Idling at 1200 rpm instead of 750. (I'm going to try and relearn the idle tomorrow)

Basically what I would like to know is if any of the lights should be of concern for me to not drive the car if they don't cause any other issues, and which problems I should take care of first. I would like to get all these codes fixed so I could have a reliable good running car. But I also don't want to hurt the car if any of these codes could cause major problems down the road.

For the time being I'm being very gentle on it and checking all the fluids regularly until I get this stuff sorted out. All fluids look good and are full. From time to time the windshield washer light comes on(even tho the fluid is over full). The brakes probably need to be changed soon. But other than that all is good.

Im just wondering if anyone has some input to some that is new to the Nissan/G35 community. I love this car already and hope the problems aren't to bad. (Hoping just new sensors could fix the problems)
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Holy cow that's a lot of broken stuff, right front vehicle speed sensor, yaw sensor, abs malfunction, throttle control actuator, steering angle sensor, cam sensor...

Wtf happened to this vehicle? Anyways, short answer is I would NOT drive it with the abs malfunction... period... the engine controls problems may damage the motor as well but for actually FIXING the problem I'd go in this order.

-Cam sensor, that should clear up 3 of the engine codes.
-Throttle actuator motor

Now the engine should be running correctly and not going to explode

-Steering angle sensor
-Vehicle speed sensor
-Bleed brakes (hopefully this is why the abs malfunction is on)
-Yaw controller (expensive part)

Before replacing ANYTHING the entire motor needs to be thoroughly checked since it was replaced, look for bad grounds, damaged wire, unplugged components.

If possible talk to the previous owner and find out if it EVER ran properly after the motor swap, also before replacing ANYTHING you need to troubleshoot each component individually to determine if it's actually bad or not. I have a gut feeling you have some electrical Gremlins and not just failing sensors.

Google "Infiniti G35 factory service manual", it's at the nicoclub site and the index is titled IDX.

 

Keep it all in one folder, and if you start with the FWD file, you will have a clickable table of contents that will take you to where you want to go.

 

Holy cow... how did I not know that >.<

 

It's a wonderful thing, this marvelous age of technology!

 

C1115 - Doesn't show up in AllData, I'd check the FSM.

C1145 - Something to do with the YAW sensor -
C1143 - Steering angle sensor, it could just need to be relearned. I think only the dealer can do this.
The C1143/45 both interact with the ABS/VDC/TCS system, so it could be that causing issues.

P1211 - VDC/ABS/TCS control unit. I'd check all the connectors first.
P1078 - Exhaust timing sensor. This needs to be relearned as well and I think the dealer can only do it. Can also be caused by bad cam/crank sensors.
P0507 - This is your high idle code. If you can get it to idle properly it should go away, otherwise you might need a new throttle body.
P0011 - Intake timing sensor. Could be dirty oil, bad cam/crank, etc..
P0021 - Intake timing sensor. Could be dirty oil, bad cam/crank, etc..

I wouldn't just go start replacing parts though. You'd want to follow the FSM verbatim and test every individual component. Most of the sensors can be tested with a multimeter to see if they are within specifications.

The codes just give you an idea of where to look.

 

Thanks for the reply. At the moment I have to continue driving the car but still haven't had any problems other than on first start. I've "given it the beans" twice and the engine feels strong, but no more of that until these lights are

Would​​Would you know which Cam sensor needs to be replaced based on the codes or do I need to replace all of them? And are the cam and crank sensors the same thing?

I will go over and check as much of the electrical work as I can this weekend when I get time. Hopefully a couple of the problems can be solved that way.

 

P0011 is bank1, P0021 is bank2. Cam sensors different than the crank sensor, fortunately they're easy to replace. You should try a full reset, ECU, Idle, Throttle recalibration. It might clear up your throttle actuator motor code if you're lucky (doubtful).

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g35...-learning.html

 

I'm pretty sure in the end the sensors all work the same, however, they are designed to fit in different places.

0011 - Bank 1
0021 - Bank 2
1078 - Bank 1

Again, though you'd want to look at the FSM and using a multimeter do the resistance checks to see if the sensors are good. Then check wiring back to the ECU and what not, if an engine was swapped it could just be a cable needs to be reseated. A lot of those codes are all related to each other.

 

So my car stalled out and died on me last night, and wouldn't start. So I replaced the two cam sensors and it still wouldn't start.
After some frustration I found out I had no gas in my gas tank even tho the guage said I did. I put a jug of 93 in it and it started right up. But the idle was still high and it wouldn't rev passed 2.5k without cutting out and sputtering.

I ran the codes and I only had one (p0340). So I took the new sensor out of the passenger side and put in my old one, and it started up fixed my idle and can rev though all the rpms. I cleared my codes again and went for a drive. All my lights came back on (VDC off, tpms, SES, and slip) ​​​so I stopped at the gas station and it still only shows p0340 at the moment.


Now I'm also experience the problem where it takes a little longer to start up than usual, when before all this happened it would start up quick Everytime. So I'm not sure what to do. Hopefully it will keep starting.

 

Have the battery tested to make sure it's still good. That code is your bank1 cam position sensor (passenger side) you just replaced that one?

 

Never had any problems after replacing sensor, when I installed the new one it made my car run like crap. Wouldn't go past 2-3k rpm when revved. So I took the passenger one out and put in the old one, but it still has the bank 1 sensor code. Also when I removed my driver side sensor it was straight and non angled.

 

Aftermarket sensors are pretty notorious for being crap on this vehicle, most will recommend you use the OEM ones because it's such a sensitive item that can greatly affect the way your engine runs. Also the price difference is minimal.

 

 

So I got it running and it was just throwing p0340 code, and was taking 4-5 seconds to start up after putting one of the old sensors back in it. I replaced it with my other old sensor just to see what was up(while I'm waiting to get another one from the store) and now it starts on first try but has a high idle. So I'm not sure what the deal is, I guess these two sensors are just starting to go out in different ways?