I have a 07 g35 sedan, long story short I lost my keys ordered oem replacements had a locksmith try to program them with no success. I then found my keys, now I have 3 fobs none of them work and now my dash doesn’t light. The push start button just says lock and i get nothing when I try to start it. Any help? Advice? Suggestions? I live quite a ways from a dealer and towing it will probably cost a few body parts, but I will do it if I have to

 

AAA will tow you up to 200 miles at no charge with a flatbed truck

Telcoman

 

The locksmith wiped the BCM key codes when he tried to reprogram it, you will need to have the BCM programmed to accept the keys. Nissan charges a flat rate to program the BCM for keys, it's like $125 and the system can accept up to 5 keys.

Sometimes local locksmiths have the software to program the Nissan BCM's as well, call around and see if anyone can do it.

Alternatively the software Nissan Datascan 2 can be used to program the BCM but you will need a laptop, an interface cable, the software, and the BCM decoded (online tools can do this).

 

Does the (original) physical key still work to open the door? If so, you should be able to put that key fob (with the phyiscal key in it) into the little "Intelligent Key Port" above the driver's left knee and start the car.

It's possible the replacement fob you got wasn't an exact match for your model year - like maybe Infiniti changed radio frequencies in '08, I don't know - and in the process of the locksmith trying to register it, he erased the original key fob from your car's memory.

If you can start it as I've described above then you can drive to the dealer and have the car reprogrammed to recognize your original fob.

 

I can almost guarantee that the locksmith wiped the key registry, you don't simply add new keys to the list. It wipes the list completely and then adds the keys you tell it to add. It's a one-shot process and it all starts by wiping the existing keys out of memory. It won't matter if you use the physical key in the ignition, the BCM wouldn't recognize it's transponder, all the key does is allows you to physically turn the switch but the entire ignition process is handled by the ECM after it receives the ok to start signal from the BCM.

 

'07 is a push-button start isn't it?

Cleric, I'm sure you're right about wiping the memory. But isn't the I-key system which communicates via rf separate from the NATS system which just looks for that embedded chip in the physical key? The idea being if your fob battery dies you still have this backup system? They're meant to be "registered" together but I think they can be done separately (like if you buy a replacement fob but want to use your existing physical key?). So it might depend on what the OP's locksmith did. Just a thought. Certainly worth trying the "fob in the key slot" idea...

 

The fob is separate from the transponder in both systems. The transponder chip is what starts the car. iKey simply allows you to do it with the push of a button rather than the turn of a button.

 

This is the kind of thread where you wish the OP would come back and let us know what happened...

Just one more comment about this "separation of fob and chip" thing. My understanding is that ever since the I-key was introduced, the battery powered fob serves as the "registered" confirmation of identity to start and drive the car and the IVIS or NATS chip embedded in the physical key is now the backup to the fob in case its battery fails or you run it over or something. (Doesn't help if you lose the fob with the key in it though...) I'm in a '13 G now with push button start and I can start and drive the car with only the fob with no physical key or chip in the car. AND I can start and drive the car with only the physical key as long as it's in the "key slot". So even though the OP has 3 fobs which can't talk to his car, I was wondering if the car might still recognized the original NATS chip.

I must say I like the i-Key. I wish I could get a BCM for my house so the doors worked the same way. I love that you can't lock the fob in the trunk and you can't lock the car door if it's fallen out of your pocket and still the car. That puts the "i" in i-key.

 

I have a love/hate relationship with intelligent fobs, the way I understood them is the fob basically just pushes the RFID transponder signal to a farther range then the "proximity limited range" that you have with just a traditional key chip. Same signal, just boosted further. But they were always two separate components. The transponder is always in the physical key and the fob is designed to boost it's range to about a 10' radius.

Apparently I'm wrong though if you're able to take the physical key out of the fob and use ONLY the fob to start the vehicle. That would mean there are two RFID chips, one in the key, one in the fob. Or the fob has some kind of RFID broadcasting antenna and an erasable memory but no actual RFID chip but rather the RFID tag is also programmed into the fob during setup but I don't think that's how it works.

I do know that the ikey fob is paired to the vehicle with basically the same procedure as the normal key fob. Put the key in the ignition rapidly 5-6 times until the hazard lights flash then turn the key to on, press a button on the fob, etc, etc. This is only for door lock/unlock function, trunk access, and auto window down though. Nothing to do with the starting of the vehicle which is handled through NATS/IVIS/BMS and the transponder.

 

That's if you have the premier coverage. I think the standard coverage is 7 miles.

 

Wow this is a GENIUS idea. An electric strike for the door that is also a transceiver and a controller that's mounted elsewhere that can be programmed to accept the RFID signal from your vehicle fob... this is literally a multi-million idea since home automation is at such a peak right now.

 

Basic is 5 miles of towing, premium is the 200. If your daily commute involves driving on the highway it's well worth the $10/month.

I think there's a mid-tier package too, I remember seeing something about it in the renewal letters they send me once a year.

 

Many may not realize that if you are on a toll road and break down the toll road agency has exclusive contracts with towing companies that charge excessive fees to tow a vehicle and will only tow you to the next exit and drop your vehicle. Then you have to arrange for another tow truck to get you to a repair place. It is going to cost you big bucks, a big hassle and a large waste of time.
As a AAA member, AAA reimburses you for all the costs and will meet you at the exit and transport your vehicle up to two hundred miles.

Telcoman

 

Basic is 3 miles, Plus is 100 miles, Premier 200.

 

"The Auto Club may require immediate payment of a service charge by credit or debit card for “Classic” benefit level service before providing Roadside Assistance on the fifth or subsequent service request in a membership year. Additional charges for Roadside Assistance services beyond the “Classic” benefit level, such as towing beyond 7 miles, the cost of emergency fuel and excess vehicle locksmith services, will be payable by the member directly to the independent service provider at the time of service at such service provider’s applicable rates."

7 miles may be Southern CA AAA thing. Based on everyone's different responses, it doesn't sound same from area to area.