Self install of MD 5/16 spacer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
Self install of MD 5/16 spacer
For any of you who did your own install on the MD 5/16 iso thermal spacer and copper TB piece, do you have any heads up or things to look out for in a self install. I am just a little paranoid about taking off the "top" of the engine. I am reasonably mechanical, and the MD web instructions seem straight forward, but I still wonder if I need to let a professional mechanic do this. Any thoughts? I have done the z-tube, grounding kit, brake pads so far, this would be the most complicated thing I have done on the car. Thanks!
it is a straight forward job. I would recommend doing it yourself. Expect to get a few cuts and what not, but it is worth it.
some things to make sure you do and don't do...
Do not touch anything without a firm grip... because you do no want to drop any bolts washers tools etc inside the engine bay and most importantly, the openings in the lower collector. I would suggest putting towels over them while you are working.
Do make sure you have ample lighting
If you have a torque wrench, use it.
Do make sure you have a ten mm rachet(or h/e it's spelled lol) wrench
most importantly
Do make sure you do not strip any bolts
Keep saying counterpressure while you are unbolting... loosen one bolt, then loosen the bolt opposite it...otherwise you will strip bolts. (I knew it would happen, but never entered my mind for w/e reason while I did mine)
Start with removing the intake tubes...z-tube and rubber plastic connectors until the tb is clear
Then loosen the top Six bolts on the plenum.
After that go around and loosen the outside bolts.
I would recommend removing the upper plenum to enable a safe and easy unbolting of the TB
Disconnect the vacuum lines running to the plenum. there should be 3?
Once you have the plenum out, use an allen key to loosen the TB. DEFINETLY keep counterpressure in mind while doing this... I was an idiot and striped one head bc i forgot about it and it is a b!tch to find a replacement bolt
You may just put the TB right back together with the copper piece in between.
Go ahead and put the iso thermal spacer in and put the plenum spacer on and bolt back up carefully!
If you have any questions pm me
-Tom
some things to make sure you do and don't do...
Do not touch anything without a firm grip... because you do no want to drop any bolts washers tools etc inside the engine bay and most importantly, the openings in the lower collector. I would suggest putting towels over them while you are working.
Do make sure you have ample lighting
If you have a torque wrench, use it.
Do make sure you have a ten mm rachet(or h/e it's spelled lol) wrench
most importantly
Do make sure you do not strip any bolts
Keep saying counterpressure while you are unbolting... loosen one bolt, then loosen the bolt opposite it...otherwise you will strip bolts. (I knew it would happen, but never entered my mind for w/e reason while I did mine)
Start with removing the intake tubes...z-tube and rubber plastic connectors until the tb is clear
Then loosen the top Six bolts on the plenum.
After that go around and loosen the outside bolts.
I would recommend removing the upper plenum to enable a safe and easy unbolting of the TB
Disconnect the vacuum lines running to the plenum. there should be 3?
Once you have the plenum out, use an allen key to loosen the TB. DEFINETLY keep counterpressure in mind while doing this... I was an idiot and striped one head bc i forgot about it and it is a b!tch to find a replacement bolt
You may just put the TB right back together with the copper piece in between.
Go ahead and put the iso thermal spacer in and put the plenum spacer on and bolt back up carefully!
If you have any questions pm me
-Tom
Last edited by filanj; Oct 28, 2006 at 11:13 PM.
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: St. Louis, MO
Tom, thanks for the reminders and heads-up. Those cross pressure issues are important, I will remember. Sounds like something that with patience and a good inch/pound torque wrench I can do. I want to repaint my upper plenum anyway (black color, I don't keep on the engine cover), looks like a good time to do that while it is off the car. I'll keep your PM in case I have questions. Thanks again.
Originally Posted by STL-G
Tom, thanks for the reminders and heads-up. Those cross pressure issues are important, I will remember. Sounds like something that with patience and a good inch/pound torque wrench I can do. I want to repaint my upper plenum anyway (black color, I don't keep on the engine cover), looks like a good time to do that while it is off the car. I'll keep your PM in case I have questions. Thanks again.
To ensure that you are threading in your bolts straight to prevent cross threading into the soft aluminum, it's a good idea to use your fingers to turn the bolt slowly counter-clockwise and feel for the 'click' as it seats into the first thread, before threading the bolt in.
When you're working with the number of bolts involved with this install, there is a higher chance of cross threading.
Also, when replacing the top plenum, be sure the rubber spacer around the oil filler tube doesn't get sandwiched in there. Many reports of leaks because of this simple issue.
When you're working with the number of bolts involved with this install, there is a higher chance of cross threading.
Also, when replacing the top plenum, be sure the rubber spacer around the oil filler tube doesn't get sandwiched in there. Many reports of leaks because of this simple issue.
oh, yeah... I forgot to mention that darn rubber spacer... i always forget and it always gets crunched in there... I'd recomment popping it off.. it comes off easy, it just sits on there basically
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