Installed Revup Airbox Mod
Installed Revup Airbox Mod
UPDATE: It's 65 out tonight and the car feels good. It feels like I've gained some whp after the new lower collector and the revup box. Not much, but a little. The car sounds great with the x-pipe mod, and it pulls well. Can't wait to see what it'll feel like with the Hypertech.
Hey guys,
Yesterday I installed the revup airbox on my 03 sedan.
The install went smoothly. One just takes out the airbox, G/Z tube, and replaces the back of the box with the piece from the revup. I was unsure of the required tq for the bolts that connect the MAF housing to the bax of the intake box, so I used the leather glove + nut driver method, and torqued them down to about 95in-lbs. They tend to break around 120in-lbs (my estimate), so I decided that this was good enough. One note, be careful with the mesh on the MAF housing, it's very fragile. I also installed a new air filter.
In terms of performance, I haven't felt anything significant. Yesterday the car felt the same, if not a little slower (maybe thanks to the ECU reset? IDK), and maybe there was a little more induction noise in the lower rev range. I guess it might've also been a touch smoother at lower rpms, but, to me, it's a wash.
Today, the car felt pretty good, though I had a passenger, and it was 90 degrees outside. I'm sure that after some more miles, it will adapt further. In cooler weather, I'll notice a bigger difference. Ether way, this was one of those, "why not" mods, that I don't expect to do too much. Maybe I gained 1-2hp.
Here are some pics:
The new box
Revup box vs. 03 box, first photo has the MAF housing still attached
Pic of the engine bay with the intake box removed
Hey guys,
Yesterday I installed the revup airbox on my 03 sedan.
The install went smoothly. One just takes out the airbox, G/Z tube, and replaces the back of the box with the piece from the revup. I was unsure of the required tq for the bolts that connect the MAF housing to the bax of the intake box, so I used the leather glove + nut driver method, and torqued them down to about 95in-lbs. They tend to break around 120in-lbs (my estimate), so I decided that this was good enough. One note, be careful with the mesh on the MAF housing, it's very fragile. I also installed a new air filter.
In terms of performance, I haven't felt anything significant. Yesterday the car felt the same, if not a little slower (maybe thanks to the ECU reset? IDK), and maybe there was a little more induction noise in the lower rev range. I guess it might've also been a touch smoother at lower rpms, but, to me, it's a wash.
Today, the car felt pretty good, though I had a passenger, and it was 90 degrees outside. I'm sure that after some more miles, it will adapt further. In cooler weather, I'll notice a bigger difference. Ether way, this was one of those, "why not" mods, that I don't expect to do too much. Maybe I gained 1-2hp.
Here are some pics:
The new box
Revup box vs. 03 box, first photo has the MAF housing still attached
Pic of the engine bay with the intake box removed
Last edited by MM_G3520; Jul 30, 2010 at 10:54 PM.
I just dropped in a new dry filter :-/ b/c I'm wary of K&Ns after owning a VW that would blow MAFs if you used anything with a little bit of grease on it. I'll boot it a few times tonight, when the weather is cooler, and I'm sure I'll feel something. It felt peppier today even with the heat.
Sounds like a nice simple upgrade. I am all about using other newer OEM parts as upgrades (aka HR y-pipe etc).
I had to read this 3 times to make sure I was seeing this correctly. People get way too over the top with torque specs. I think the intake is the last thing you would need to be concerned about torquing to spec. I have replaced full exhaust systems, brakes, suspension, and many other major components that see load just by hand and never had a problem. Now with motor work, yes, that it where you need to be on top of things due to clearances, tolerances, and pressure. But worrying about torque specs on simple bolt-ons, especially just bolting two extremely light duty pieces of plastic that have no load on them is just overkill.
I was unsure of the required tq for the bolts that connect the MAF housing to the bax of the intake box, so I used the leather glove + nut driver method, and torqued them down to about 95in-lbs. They tend to break around 120in-lbs (my estimate), so I decided that this was good enough.
Sounds like a nice simple upgrade. I am all about using other newer OEM parts as upgrades (aka HR y-pipe etc).
I had to read this 3 times to make sure I was seeing this correctly. People get way too over the top with torque specs. I think the intake is the last thing you would need to be concerned about torquing to spec. I have replaced full exhaust systems, brakes, suspension, and many other major components that see load just by hand and never had a problem. Now with motor work, yes, that it where you need to be on top of things due to clearances, tolerances, and pressure. But worrying about torque specs on simple bolt-ons, especially just bolting two extremely light duty pieces of plastic that have no load on them is just overkill.
I had to read this 3 times to make sure I was seeing this correctly. People get way too over the top with torque specs. I think the intake is the last thing you would need to be concerned about torquing to spec. I have replaced full exhaust systems, brakes, suspension, and many other major components that see load just by hand and never had a problem. Now with motor work, yes, that it where you need to be on top of things due to clearances, tolerances, and pressure. But worrying about torque specs on simple bolt-ons, especially just bolting two extremely light duty pieces of plastic that have no load on them is just overkill.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
