I'm glad I found motorcycles. Trying to make the G fast has been expensive and time consuming.

 

If you want to make the G fast, don't buy anything other than a vortech supercharger, a smaller pulley for it and the minimal supporting replacement parts like a larger pump and injectors. Leave the exhaust and everything else. Now you've got something that shouldn't have a problem keeping up with the various american v8's, assuming they're relatively stock, for around $6k or less with all brand new parts.
It's time consuming if you don't enjoy it. I like to do these things and I think most who do most of their own work do. Then others out there have $ to burn or debt to burn don't want to know how the cake is baked, they just want to eat it. For me, it's not about having the fastest whatever on the road. If it were, I'd be driving an american v8 or a gtr and build from there.

 

True story. Well, except I gave up making a car go fast years ago. I spend enough time/money just getting the thing to feel "new" again haha.

 

Now a better question would be why my pictures don't serve up unless I edit and click on them... Same thing happened to another thread of mine. Using imgur...

 

LS swaps seem to be well sorted now, gives you more horsepower to begin with plus more room in the engine bay for power adders. Our cars are a decade plus old now so any real boost also means a rebuild of the VQ35 so there really isn't much of a price advantage anymore sticking with the original engine. But in either case, is it really worth spending $10-15k on a car worth $5-7k? You'd never get the money back so to make it worth it you would have to keep the car for several years to at least get enough driving enjoyment out of it. Still...half the price of a Camaro SS and you can at least see out of our cars!

 

Amen brother! I absolutely hate poor visibility in a car. Another atrociously bad one is the HHR. What is it with Chevy designers? All looks and no play.

 

And this is the conundrum. Drop $6k, get a new vortech and associated upgrades, the the 3.12(?) pully iirc and just stay there on your stock block but noooo, people become crack addicts and cannot get enough. Keep the rev limiter at or even below stock and one should be good for a long time on a mildly supercharged stock block. Go with a turbo instead and now one is increasing the risk due to the added torque and more of it down low.
Supercharger via centrifugal and vortech is the cheapest and most widely known (problems long already solved) way to go. So much info available on the g/z forums. You need more speed, weight and gearing will do all the while reducing the load on the engine/transmission. I'm still thrilled with having dropped 1 1/2 seconds off my 1/4 and more off the 60 that I'm in 0 rush though my plan has been and continues to be to build the transmission and the engine. I can get away with the lowest of builds which tends to be 600 hp rating because the potential strength of a built auto transmission will not be able to keep up with even the most mildly built engine. Sucks for some but I must say I love that because it will keep me away from the proverbial "horse power crack pipe". I can still remove more weight and potentially swap my 3.7 ring and pinions out for 3.9 or 4.10's IF I can find out whether the nissan frontier or armada's are interchangeable with mine. I need front and back ring & pinions.
These cars are not increasing in value. 99.999% are not. Modifying any car will decrease it's value, save for some american muscle resto-mods but even then, unless one does all or most of the work, one shouldn't expect a return on investment. One will still loose. You either plan to keep the car for a good while and trick it out, though plans do change, or drive it, put in the minimum to keep it going and work on something else. Cars are $ losers and for the time being, homes and stocks are $ winners but if you enjoy the process and the car, it's not about the money.

 

Don't forget lightweight propeller shafts, lightweight rotors are not nearly as much bang for the buck but they help as well.

 

I know swapping the stock wheels for RSX wheels on my Accord made a noticeable improvement, especially off the line. Went from 25 lb wheels to 16 lb wheels. Pretty big reduction in rotational weight. Currently looking for some lighter wheels for my G35 now.

 

A lot of folks don't give enough credit to this type of thing because it doesn't generate more power on the Dyno. However it generates the same power in less time which means better track times.

300whp that only takes 8 seconds to make a Dyno pull is a hell of a lot faster than 300whp that takes 12 seconds to redline.

 

For sure. Stock FX wheels weigh 70 lbs with stock bf goodcrap tries. Bricks. My aftermarket wheels and continental dws06 weigh 50 lbs. 80 lbs of all 4 wheels and I'd say the single best acceleration mod. They're also near 1.5" smaller in diameter effectively changing the final drive to 3.9 from 3.7 (approx).
I read a Porsche engineer claim 1 lb of rotating weight = 6-7 lbs total weight. I removed 80 from the wheels, so in essence it's similar to removing 480-560 lbs. The further away from the hub the more effect weight has, so tire weight is really important & one of the reasons I got the dws06's.

 

You changed the tire diameter / height? Not good for traction control or speedo though.

 

AWD. If there is traction control involved with vdc on top of awd then it's probably deactivated via vdc relay removal. I have 0 problems. It does rack up more miles on the speedo for sure but frankly, who cares? The day I decide to get ride of it, should that day come, a false higher mileage reading on the odometer isn't gonna matter. RPM's are up across the board just as they would be if I swapped the 3.7 for a 3.9 r&p.

 

You will get better fuel economy too. Some people will be like, "Huh ? Different wheels increase your MPG?".

 

The VDC system only cares about the rolling diameter of all 4 tires, as long as they are w/in the 3% difference rule it won't freak out. Doesn't care if the tires are 205/55/17 or 285/35/20 for example. Just keep the difference < 3% F/R and everything is hunky dory lol. Speedometer is a whole other story as mentioned above.